Patchouli 24 (2006)
    by Le Labo

    Patchouli 24 Fragrance notes

    Patchouli, Birch, Vanilla

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    Reviews of Patchouli 24

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    Showing 1 to 6 of 53 reviews.

    Kain's avatar
    Iran Iran

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    First time when I sniffed this, the smell was very familiar to my nose!
    Then I take a look at the perfumer and I saw Annick Menardo! he has done a really great job with a fragrance with the same DNA before and yes, that's Bvlgari Black!
    It doesn't smell exactly like that but very close and with the same DNA.
    The opening is dark and almost smoky leather scent with some sweetness in the background and also some patchouli but I would say this is not a patchouli based fragrance!
    The patchouli is there but sweetened with vanilla and very strong dose of leather that give the scent a very dark aura!
    In the mid the leather and vanilla become stronger.
    The leather note has a very smoky and dark aroma. maybe like Bvlgari Black almost rubbery but better than that.
    The vanilla in this fragrance smell much better and more natural than Bvlgari Black.
    The vanilla was synthetic in Bvlgari Black but here is much more sensual and quality.
    Still you can smell patchouli but it's in the background.
    The scent didn't change that much in the base.
    The leather note settled down and vanilla is very strong and sweet and patchouli is still in the background.
    While they name it Patchouli 24, I must say that the patchouli is more like a supporting note instead of the main note!
    Projection is really good and strong and longevity is excellent.
    A very good fragrance. I like it.

    16 February, 2014

    rbaker's avatar

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    The first minutes I get a dark and harsh patchouli, but soon it is as if a cloud of black smoke has descended. It is a harsh, open-fire smoked-ham-with-Oolong note, with transient whiffs of asphalt, and without any Knize-Ten-style petrol on my skin. The beginning has a few touches that indeed remind me if Bvlgari Black's opening. There is clearly a lot of deliciously rough birchwood involved, developing into a rich, intense and edgy leather scent. After about three hours it mellows and is closer to my skin, with a mild vanilla that is never really very sweet on me - the beast is tamed. And a hair-on-the-chest tough beast it is: This is not wearing a tender silk gown like Chanel's Cuir du Russie, and it lacks the fresh elegance of Creed's CdR masterpiece. Le Labo's Patchouli 24 is a brilliant and gutsy exercise in birchwood and leather, with patchouli more an afterthought after the initial blast. Le Labo' names can be a bit like Oxford's Bachelor of Civil Law, which is really not a Bachelor's degree at all. The scent, however, is splendid, with good silage and projection in the first phases and a total longevity of nearly seven hours. Great stuff!

    05 February, 2014 (Last Edited: 04 February, 2014)

    paintdallas's avatar
    United States United States

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    Smoke. Just smoke. The sweetness faded, the patchouli was but a faint whisper in the very onset, then just smoke. On me that was the singular and defining note that brought along no other friends to the party. I will admit that I do alter fragrance in rather extreme ways, so this could rock on others but it was a one note disappointment for me. My quest for the perfect patchouli continues.

    31st December, 2013

    drseid's avatar
    United States United States

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    Patchouli 24 opens with a very earthy, near camphorous patchouli before quickly transitioning to its birch driven heart. During the early heart the earthy patchouli moves to a barely detectable supporting role as a very smoky rugged birch wood driven leather accord quickly emerges and dominates the composition through its entire middle section with hints of the birch's woody nature peeping through at times. During the late dry-down the patchouli completely disappears with the smoky leather softening, as dry slightly powdery vanilla from the base first acts as underlying support before growing into the late focus as the development comes to a close. Projection is excellent and longevity outstanding at well over 15 hours on skin.

    As many others have mentioned (and quite typical of Le Labo) the Patchouli name on the bottle is far from a good indicator of what one sniffs. The *real* star of most of the development is the birch wood driven smoky leather. The birch near completely overpowers any traces of the patchouli, and by the time the composition reaches the late dry-down the patchouli appears completely gone. Apart from the addition of the late developing vanilla there really aren't many detectable notes (though the "24" in the name indicates there actually are 24 different ingredients). To me, Patchouli 24 really is a minimalist hard-core leather fragrance through-and-through, and an excellent one at that. The bottom line is the $240 per 100ml bottle Patchouli 24 has a deceptive name and most likely will disappoint those looking for a patchouli-focused composition, but hardcore leather lovers are bound to be pleased with its superior minimalist execution, earning it a "very good" to "excellent" rating of 3.5 to 4 stars out of 5.

    29 December, 2013

    flathorn's avatar
    United States United States

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    This fragrance was easy-going on my skin, even with the birch tar and smoke. When it opened I got an impression of smoke, patchouli and cream soda or root beer. I think it was the combination of vanilla, birch and a Lapsong-type tea note, lightly sweetened. It all swam around a roughened earthy, but not really aggressive, patchouli. I should have been offended by the combination but it was kind of comforting.
    In the mid note, I smelled more leather, which amped up the sensuality, and was my favorite part of the fragrance. There continued to be a sort of birchy root soda note. These notes weren't welded in place. They were the product of ingredients floating around creating associations, one of which was cream soda. But it shifted to Lapsong tea, styrax, leather, an agreeable earthy patchouli and birchy tar. The dry down had less leather and settled a little more solidly into the earthy patchouli and palely sweetened smokey birch beer note.
    I thought this was a comfort fragrance - there were so many associations from my childhood in it. It has a decided birch tar, but I grew up burning birchwood in a wood stove, so this is like being home. It had a fair amount of complexity built into it, what with the way the notes shifted and formed new chords until the dry down. Kind of a neat trick really. Root beer is not my idea of a fragrance note, but I can't help but like it here, wrapped as it is in so many warm smoky, earthy notes. Nice fragrance.

    11th December, 2013 (Last Edited: 07 February, 2014)

    jtd's avatar
    United States United States

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    fan letter

    A review of le Labo Patchouli 24, and coincidentally

    a fan letter to Bvgari Black.

    Thank you, Annick Menardo.

    If I find a genre of perfume that I like, I embrace it. I stock up. With Patchouli 24, Iíve cornered the market on the smokey-leather-tea-patchouli-resinous-vanilla genre. The other two in this category I already own: Bvlgari Black and Andy Tauer Lonestar Memories.

    When comparing apples to apples, the small differences carry great weight, and decision making is easy. I wear all three and never have the least difficulty choosing which one to wear on any given day.

    Lonestar, Black and Patch 24 share a number of notes, and in fact could look very similar on paper. But notes and verbal descriptors have little to do with the experience of wearing these perfumes. Lonestar takes a sense of intention and deliberation to wear. But when the stars align, wearing Lonestar pays dividends. Bvlgari Black, less rough than Lonestar and more tailored than Patchouli 24, is the star of the three. Lonestar is rough and Patchouli 24 is dense, but both perfumes result from the cooperation of their notes. (There was a television ad for a dog treat that coined the repulsive phrase, "crun-chewy" solving, I suppose, a millenia-long dilemma in the dog world) The term for this particular perfume synergy would be, "am-birch-tar-y."

    But Black has a different motivation than cooperation, and the logic is indisputable. It thrives on the difference of its constituent parts and makes them work together in a complementary fashion rather than simply uniting them as a boy-band would be cast. Black has the seamless coordination of a perfectly crafted mechanical device. Itís not harmony, itís the satisfaction of perfectly milled locks and keys.

    Sweetness is the difference between the three. Blackís sweetness is the charm that results from amber, rubber and powder. Inedible, delectable. Lonestarís sweetness is the sharp edge of tar, blanched white florals and and uncut vanilla extract. Patchouli 24ís sweetness is the key to its affability. The sweetness triggers perceptions of lushness and the sense of having satisfied a craving, but it never once falls into gourmand territory. This sweetness is the pressure valve of Patch 24. It is the reassurance of safety in a perfume that asks you to be comfortable in a place youíve never really felt fully at ease. Trust the sweetness. You wonít fall into the gourmand trap, yet by the same token the big bad wolf (tarry, smokey leather) wonít harm you.

    Itís no wonder that no matter the form, the field or the genre, thoughtful, accomplished artists over a period of time will work out their ideas in a specific range rather than inventing a new wheel with each series of works. From Femme to Ocean Rain, Edmond Roudnitska illuminated the fruity chypre. Pina Bausch showed us the depth of change that mid-20th century Europe had to accept moving from post-colonialism to multi-culturalism. Menardo has a gem of a focus, and arguably sheís written the book on what could be fleshed out into its own genre. Consider also that sheís virtually the sole author of the by Killian line. The opportunity to shape a line, and separately to creating a genre is not a common opportunity in perfumery. Iím ecstatic to know that itís Ms. Menardo at the wheel.

    from scent

    27 August, 2013

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