Sutra Ylang (2005)
by Bois 1920

I feel that this is oriental in nature. A little bit green with woody amber and herbs. Feels like a fuller Obsession for Men with a touch of Pino Silvestre (without pine notes) but not as heavy. Very pleasing and suitable for cool weather.

Bright and lively entrance: There is something in the citrus opening that they are not telling anybody about – something like a light eucalyptus or at least something medicinally aromatic. The opening is energetic yet it seems almost old fashioned and classic at the same time: I think the “classic” aspect comes from an ever present sandalwood that exhibits a rich background to the sparkling citrus and the amber and benzoin that shows itself almost immediately. The floral heart is well done with none of the florals dominating to my nose except that I get a little spice probably coming from the carnation. The heart presents a very enjoyable floral bouquet that is appropriately unisex. The base does get a little blah, but it is pleasant enough and subtle enough to make the fragrance a good choice for an office fragrance or other circumstances when its subtlety is desired. Sutra Ylang is a unique scent… I can’t think of anything similar to it.

This started out way too sweet on me. As I went about my business, waiting for it to evolve, I began to smell horse manure! Sniffed my wrist and sure enough, there it was. I suppose this could have been the indole/jasmine, though I haven't experienced it with other jasmines. When the weird reek faded, the perfume settled into a sweetish/powdery fog. Even without the fecal phase this isn't my cup of tea. But someone who likes sweet, powdery, STRONG florals might love it.
I let my daughter try it, she likes sweeter frags than I do, and no horse patties appeared on her, so once again my chemistry may have fouled up a perfectly nice perfume.

Top: lemon, bergamot, cardamom, laurel
Mid: rose, jasmine, violet, lily of the valley, carnation
Base: sandalwood, cedarwood, moss, benzoin.
Sutra Ylang is a distinctive scent! I find that violet dominates (leaves + blossoms). This combination is brisk and piercing, yet also flowery and powdery. In my opinion violet is an acquired taste. I find that I now can appreciate it; formerly I didn’t understand it nor like it. Sutra Ylang has a good opening. There is citrus, spice, and a fine green note from the laurel. I appreciate the latter. Lovely florals (rose, jasmine, lily of the valley) are set against the restrained yet powerful violet. The effect is haunting and memorable. In the dry-down; the citrus persists (unusual!), the wood gets tangy, and eventually the violet and benzoin combine in a powdery-sweet sustained note. I lose interest in the later stages of the dry-down, but up ‘til then I enjoyed this.