I wrote summer 2013, thus the reference to Ramadan:
It is hard to imagine a dinner "guest" more suitable for a dinner that began with exchanges of both "Shabbat Shalom" and "Ramadan Mubarak" than Serge Lutens Sarrasins. My gracious jet-lagged guests arrived, bearing not just the awaited bell jar, but also some Pernod, assuring a dinner that would end as splendidly as it began.
Carefully, I opened the package, preserving the monogrammed seal on the outer wrapping. I got cotton swabs and passed one to my guests, who were my Algerian friend and his wife, and my two children. First of all, that is some purple juice and at first sniff it smelled "purple" in the way I remember grape soda as a kid. This could very well be castoreum. Yes, indolic jasmine to start, with a hint of crushed stems as well as blooms, then throughout the evening, a waxy sweetness, possibly osmanthus, would waft up from the crook in my elbow, which seems to be where Lutens all like to live and bloom. It is to me a very personal skin scent, and as it blooms it takes on a corporeal sort of warmth.
I really can't further describe how Sarrasins smells, but I can describe how it feels: post-coital bliss with a bowl of ice cream. Luxe and sated.
This is a big, bold, purple perfume. The opening is intense, and I found myself hoping it would settle and transition quickly. The listed base notes of patchouli and castoreum are obscured by the strength of the floral. This would catch my attention on someone else, but it is not something I want to wear.
Gosh!! This is scrumptious!!!
Jasmine Absolute coaxed so gently by supporting ingredients into an elixir
intoxicating to both sides of my mind.
Here, I see Romance and Reality combined.
Just enough of the Indoles rounded off to make fuzzy moments. Just enough Indoles laid bare to offer clarity.
Patchouli and Castoureum. Basenotes that have been so craftly applied as to be sensed as top notes. The Jasmine, alone, rises to the Heavens, on Golden (Apricot) Wings.
Did I say anything about it being Heaven in a bottle.
I really do love this scent. I perhaps love jasmine more than any other flower, and for that reason, I am very harsh with my thoughts on any fragrance that attempts to capture that gorgeous scent in any way that does it wrongly. Jasmine should be explored, and has many facets, but some noses manage to twist it into something overly sweet and without character; this is not the case with Sarrasins.
I get a brief hint of camphor by way of introduction, alongside a gentle intake of jasmine and something citrus, which I assume is the bergamot. It conjures up a feeling of walking in a garden on a late Spring day, just cool enough to need a light jacket. Because it is not terribly warm, the heat has not done its work to open up all of the floral molecules and other surrounding environmental scents. Everything is measured in soft, gentle tones.
Later, I imagine walking into a barn, where horses nicker and the warm smell of well-cared for high-end tack is brought out by grooms to prepare horses for an evening hack by owners just getting off work. The scent of leather and something slightly animalic is present, but feels restrained, as though it is still in the background of the jasmine.
This is easily becoming a favorite. It is so easy to wear, and so pretty. Most certainly full bottle worthy.
24th February, 2016 (last edited: 25th February, 2016)
Lutens had previously released A La Nuit, which exhibited the fresh, sparkling, green-tinged aspect of jasmine. The result was a quite feminine, easier, green-tinged daytime frag with fairly mass appeal. I could never wear that. Sarrasins is the slightly feral, growling, clearly unisex Lutens jasmine that says “danger but it’s safe”, kinda like a scary ride or a bungee jump. The indoles can smell just a touch fecal to some, while the osmanthus is brilliantly rendered to affect a rather skanky leathery accord after about 30 minutes. But never at any time does Sarrasins come off as anything but extremely elegant and deeply sensual, even sexy. And man o man, does the heat of summer accentuate these aspects. my grail jasmine in the deep purple shawl....
A luminous femininity with magnetic seduction.as complex and fascinating as the woman who inspires it. SARRASINS is one of the most great,intoxicating and seductive jasmine scent ever.this perfume has a touch of earth scent that makes it attractive.a work of art by SERGE LUTENS that is not everyday scent,mostly a going-out-at-night scent for cooler weather. Classic,Voluptuous, Seductive,Floral,Gorgeous,Magnetic,Sophisticated and a Grown up scent.
Stunning true jasmine supported by another white floral accords, adding a note of subtlety,charm and sophistication to the parfume.the base notes of musk adds character to the scent of SARRASINS.with this strong scent you want roar:I am the essence of woman and SARRASINS is the air against my wings and also with this impressive scent you are confident of your sensuality.anyway elegance and quality of this perfume is laudable.
Longevity?Great on my skin.