Spiritueuse Double Vanille (2007)
by Guerlain

I had sniffed this fragrance several times at two different Guerlain boutiques and couldn't see paying such a high price for it. Finally when I was at the boutique in the Bellagio in Las Vegas I gave it an actual wear and found it quite wonderful. I bought it as soon as I returned home.

Spiritueuse Double Vanille is very true to its name. It goes on very boozy. The full warmth of the fragrance doesn't kick in on me for a good two hours when I am literally draped in a warm, cozy aura of vanilla bean and resins. While SDV is not exactly linear, it's progression is truly variations on a theme of vanilla, booze, spices and resins. There is some wood in the dry down as well which keeps the pure vanilla from smelling too sweet. Its a very comforting, grown up vanilla scent that smells remarkably masculine on my skin. I can see myself reaching for it on many occasions. SDV is quite worth the price in my opinion.

A big, cushy vanilla based scent from Guerlain’s premium line – what’s not to adore? I was prepared to swoon over Spiritueuse Double Vanille from the very first sniff, but guess what? I’m not buying it.

Why not? Well, the opening accord of miraculously dry vanilla and brisk pink peppercorns is arresting, but within minutes there appears a conspicuous, abrasive, sour note that reminds me much too closely of boiling vinegar. The impression on me is the olfactory equivalent of fingernails on a blackboard, and it’s just as intolerable. The nasty note does eventually go away, but it lingers far too long for my patience. The drydown, when it arrives is (what else?) a satin smooth vanilla and sandalwood blend that’s almost - but only almost – enough to make me forget the awkward middle movement. I know that Spiritueuse Double Vanille has found much love her on Basenotes, but I find it far less satisfying than its siblings Cuir Beluga and Bois d’Armenie.

Guerlain Spiritueuse Double Vanille

Notes: vanilla, benzoin, frankincense, spices, cedar, pink pepper, bergamot, Bulgarian rose and ylang-ylang (from theperfumedcourt.com)

Today has been full of surprises. One big surprise is that I expected Spiritueuse Double Vanille to be the epitome of vanilla fragrances. I mean, coming from Guerlain, the house that carved its niche in the perfume world by making beautiful vanilla-laden compositions, I presume that they know something about how to use vanilla. I am sorry to say that SDV is quite dire. After wearing Jicky and Shalimar for days on end, I have come to love the vanilla version of Guerlinade. SDV does not have it. It is raw, almost vanilla extract-like, with "perfumy" floral and powder notes that sit on the surface and never become integrated. SDV doesn't really develop, let alone reach the stature of a composition such as Shalimar. It simply stays rough an unintegrated, with notes of sawdust and fake, bitter florals rather than the lovely balsamic and boozy cask woods I wanted. There is even an almost hamster-cage like quality to the woody accord which is rather distasteful. I can't see why anybody would prefer this over one of Guerlain's own classics. Incidentally, SDV smells better on paper than on skin...strange.

After reading the reviews, I thought I would love this, but alas I don't. The berry topnotes I do not find appealing. The drydown is OK, but very simple vanilla. Nice, but I will probably end up with Ambre Narguile or Tobacco Vanille, both of which I enjoy more.

SPIRITUEUSE DOUBLE VANILLE. Sounds like a drink, doesn't it? Had it appeared on a drinks menu I'm quite certain nobody would have done a double take. In fact I find the opening to be deliciously effervescent and vanillic, rather reminiscent of ice cream soda which is a favorite drink of mine since I was 7. A reviewer even compared it to vanilla liqueur. And I must say I agree with him for this is indeed an intoxicating scent, one which easily finds a top 3 spot among my preferred vanilla masterpieces.

Undoubtedly the best vanilla fragrance I’ve encountered, unabashed, straight-up sweet and sticky vanilla. Spiritueuse Double Vanille is never over-bearing though.

Lasts for hours and hours and can still be detected the next day. My only gripe is that after 6 hours it takes on a very milky smell on my skin. Males that wear Bulgari Black, Monk and Chergui should give this a try.