Enslaved (2007)
by Roja Dove

This is a real complex beast with great longevity. It also seems to embody certain qualities of many Guerlain vanilla-based classics (so much so that one is forced to conclude that Enslaved aspires to be a Guerlain).

One of its funny characteristics is how it briefly goes awry on my skin only to refrain itself, at some point, from going any further (much to my relief). When it eventually gets itself back on track, it continues to develop wonderfully. The fact that this happens at least twice during its development (and never completely turns on my skin) says a lot about how multi-faceted Enslaved really is.

I can’t make out the notes but, in addition to vanilla, I do sense some peach, spices, opoponax and myrrh during its development. Its composition is far more dense and interwoven than most fragrances I’ve had the pleasure of testing but this is something to be truly admired.

Unfortunately, I really can’t see myself buying a bottle of this. Why not? Well, for £95 I'd prefer it to have much more projection than it currently emits from my skin (which isn’t much). However, there are very few fragrances that I would class as runner-ups, in terms of becoming part of my wardrobe, but Enslaved is certainly one of them.

UPDATE:

I've changed my rating from a thumbs-up to a neutral, since experiencing Habanita – Enslaved is almost a carbon copy of this.

[Original submission date: 10 April 2008]

Incredibly beautiful, incredibly complex scent that is difficult to describe, but nonetheless one of the most beautiful perfumes available on the market today. I own over 80 full bottles of perfume from over 70 labels and this one is definitely in my top 5.

The jasmine heart notes are strong and definitely act as the dominant theme of Enslaved. On my skin the basenotes intermingle and form a very powerful smoky mix which smells a bit like burnt birthday candles in a surprisingly lovely way. The labdanum, clove, and other incenses (myrrh? benzoin?) curl around the ylang ylang, jasmine, oakmoss, and other florals - but Trebor is right, this is a very tightly knit scent that is difficult for me to break down beyond the dominant jasmine and resinous/smoky base notes.

I've heard Roja Dove himself describe this one as an 'Oriental', which is probably accurate as there is definitely something dark and mysterious about 'Enslaved'. Like a courtier in a velvet room, alit with silver candles and filled with expensive antiques, it is both seductive and classy - the perfect perfume for a masked ball.

I detected no powder and am baffled by the previous reviewers' comparison of it to ELO as Enslaved is in an entirely different league of greatness. I will say, however, that my friend was in the shop with me when I tried it on and it smelled completely different on her, so I wonder if this isn't one that reacts strongly to skin chemistry. It may be wise to sample it before you buy, as £95 is rather steep, even for 100ml. However, I think it was worth every penny and may be going back for a second bottle soon! Unheard of, for me. :-)

Enslaved is a heavy, one-dimensional perfume that smells chiefly like old fashioned ladies powder, ie. loose powder in a cylindrical container that comes with a luxurious white powder puff. I detected a tiny bit of spiciness in the fragrance which I guess was the carnation and clove trying to get out but, it was firmly "enslaved" by the unrelenting Mistress Powder! None of other notes listed below were detectable. For comparison purposes, Enslaved reminded me a lot of that other cloyingly robust powder fragrance, Etat Libre d'Orange's "Rien" (aka "Dorian Gray").

In the powder/aldehyde genre of perfumery, I much prefer Hermes' Rouge or Le Labo's Aldehyde 44 to Enslaved.

Per The Perfumed Court, here are the notes: Bergamot, Orange, Lemon, Geranium, Orange Blossom, Rose, Ylang Ylang, Jasmine, Carnation, Clove, Oakmoss, Cedarwood, Vetiver, Patchouli, Labdanum, Ambergris and Musk.