A dark, gorgeous, and insanely powerful woody-sweet patchouli with prominent notes of fenugreek and warm resins. The opening is monumental and the best part of Luxe: Patchouli – velvety smooth, almost like a thick-flowing herbal balsam of spicy fenugreek that slowly gives way to supporting layers of patchouli, opoponax, and a complex combination of wood notes. The dry-down, however, is less intriguing, extremely tenacious and eventually grows a bit too staid, lacking the vibrant dynamics and fulfilling aromatic richness so characteristic of the opening.
Luxe: Patchouli is an all-dark, decadent and incredibly rich scent, decidedly modern and with that quirky woody-synthetic Comme des Garçons twist. It is also extremely expensive, and although I greatly admire the opening, the rather uninspiring drydown keeps this scent from quite qualifying as one of the very best patchoulis (such as Coromandel, Dior’s Patchouli Impérial, Bornéo 1834, and Mazzolari’s Patchouli). It is, however, undeniably impressive, original and quite unique. About as far away as you can get from the sensible and down-to-earth, Luxe: Patchouli is a statement of character, attitude, and mysterious charm. You cannot wear this and hide.
Note: This review is based on the original 2007 eau de parfum, not the 2013 eau de toilette version.
Scent opens spectacularly with a complex riot of elements: opoponax and cedar, followed by patchouli, teak, oak, pepper. Fenugreek and vanilla accords give a toffee-caramel vibe, but this is not a sweet scent. Really nice and dry.
If you’re a sweet myrrh aficionado, you need to try this asap, because really, the main story in this fragrance is the opoponax, not patchouli. Yes, patchouli is present as the frag develops, but here it acts more like a vessel, which is one of its best roles, holding all the elements together, yet staying resolutely in the background.
The opoponax and cedar thru-line of the scent stays clear throughout the drydown, with the vanilla and fenugreek becoming stronger. I also detected a touch of dusty frankincense lurking at the edges. In the final stages, the scent coalesces beautifully.
An exotic, masculine fragrance.
Good longevity, but after several hours this moves closer to the skin. Works better in cooler weather than in hot.
Pros: A complex, masculine blend
Cons: The frag’s misnamed—it’s all about sweet myrrh "
Syrupy patchouli?? I must confess I didn't enjoy the opening. The immortelle note ruins the start for me but thankfully takes a back seat soon enough to allow a full-bodied patchouli to shine through. The patchouli here is not particularly earthy, it's more balsamic and herbal. But it wears smoothly and lasts quite a fair bit as a skin scent. If you like your patchouli with some sugary undertones, you got to try this.
A terrific patchouli/fenugreek/angelica root composition. If you dislike bold and dark fragrances you should better stay carefully away from Luxe Patchouli as it's very powerful and noticeable. The main element is blended with a strong immortelle note providing the typical burnt sugary quality while a strong resinous and moderately sweet base, adds extra body to this thick earthy composition. Less sweet than Sables but richer than Fareb, Luxe Patchouli is a perfect example of a dark fragrance with a modern twist.
Unisex, intense, long lasting and unique. Another winner from the guys at Comme Des Garcons.
This fragrance manages to be at same time lush and quite herbal-spicy (almost rubbery). One of the few really (and again really) dark appalling patchouly of the worldwide olfactory panorama. A resinous, spicy, "harshly vegetal", slightly sugary (bitter-mild), very dark patchouli that is since the beginning smoky/peppery (a touch of sweet tobacco may be) and with a sheer tarry and balsamic strong note of licorice in a link with something like anise or angelica (may be the bearberry yet), overall surrounded by resins of oak, myrrh, birch tar and vanilla (in minimum amount). A tad of frankincense and "camphor" are there in the blend. The aromatic blend ends down almost incensey and smokey-licoricey (because of the influence coming from burnt woods from the top to the bottom) but it is basically aromatic and surprisingly green, herbal and earthy/rooty because of the influence coming from rooty vetiver, bearberry and balsamic feengreek. The interaction of pepper, smoke, patchouli and tarry-aromatics (immortelle, bearberry, feengreek?) grounds a very dark botanical compelling structure flanked by greens and hints of camphor, being finally civilized and soothed by a huge amount of soft balsams and resins. The fragrance itself is a tangle, the mildness is afforded by balsams and woods (sandalwood and cedarwood), the note of patchouli is well flavoured and hidden in the middle of a black bitter-sweet shadow that is aromatic and earthy, tarry and mellow all at once. All the elements are in a perfect balance. Ubermodern, futuristic fragrance with a huge amount of texture in my opinion, really searched and luxurious, perfect for ("well trimmed/sleek") clubbing in all the cozy, velvety, dark-violet clubs of the down town.
10th October, 2011 (last edited: 11th November, 2015)