Jeepers, which cauldron did they pull this megamongous leather from? Bag-and-sandal shop mixed in equal parts with roué’s black leather jacket after a night at an establishment with a name like The Sling or The Pit. The mix of new and weathered leather scents is an ingenious twist.
Propelled in the opening by some herbal lavender, it soon settles into leather leather leather with an aureole of petrol fumes. Develops a pleasing creamy wood aspect in the deep dry down (4 hours). Well-made, with great persistence, will wow leatherheads to whose number I can’t say I belong.
Rose and leather
The leather impression - with only a small touch of harshness initially - is mainly in the opening blast on my skin, but a dark rose note is added, freshened up by a background citrus note. Later on a spicy component emerges with a touch of amber. The leather is not prominent overall, is smooth and not the wild type. It is very well blended and has good silage and projection, with a quite average longevity of three hours on me.
Startling fresh citrus opening with a pungent herbal green and rose middle. Softens to a base of gourmand spices and talcum that occassionally pipes up with those pervasive citrus notes throughout wear. Lasts 6+ hours on skin. I do not detect leather notes at all...which I consider a good thing. Very mild after first thirty minutes and genearlly presents a mature unisex quality that is quite nice for daily or mixed company wear.
An Imperial leather, arrogant and high class. Birch tar, hesperides, dark leather shined by lucid foam and opaque flowers are the prominent notes under my profane nose. Caraway, terragon, birch tar and ginger project gas and aromatic air. There is the Cuir the Russie's leathery, rubbery (polish) and oily beat in the air and a balance between spicy-rooty and soft elements completes the dry down. This scent is a majestic citrus-lavender and leather prominent fragrance with a strong and spicy grey-dark and green-aromatic vibe, a stiff floral subtleness and a touch of gassy rubber. There is a spicy and slightly orangy feel in the air that reminds me effectively Onda Vero Profumo although the former is less leathery and more orangy than the Xerjoff one. There is an undeniable resemblance of the former with Knize Ten (the two fragrances feature many, many elements in common) since both are woodsy, rubbery, leathery and discreetly floral even if XJ Homme ends with a sort of soapy powderiness that is slightly different in comparison with the Knize Ten's mossy-animalic dry down. After a wonderful citrusy-herbal opening the smell slides, through a spicy-floral transition, in to a wonderful dark industrial "tamed" leather. The latter is always cool, spicy-herbal, aromatic and sophisticated by detergent-musky iris, rose, vanilla and grey amber. A touch of smoothness tames a bit the roughness of the masculine woodsy dry down. Extremely expensive and wonderfully packaged, XJ Homme is leather at its best in parfumery.
A very attractive pretty leather like freshly polished shoes is introduced splashed with a little citrus. Tres industrielle. Besides the great leather you have a little rubber too. Since we're conjuring up all this B & D imagery with both leather and rubber notes why not throw in a note from a good aromatic jute shibari rope and go for the trifecta? Just a suggestion, Xerjoff. For next time. A good jute shibari smells delicious. Homme brings to mind Knize Ten and rightfully so. There are similarities. But there are differences also. Enough that to my nose while Homme is alive and inviting Knize smells stale and shrunken. The splendid uber macho character of Homme naturally poses the question: Would this be James Dean's fragrance of choice were he alive today? And if so should an 81 year old man be wearing this? I say yes and emphatically yes.
04th March, 2012 (last edited: 18th March, 2012)