Turin describes this as a "buttery floral," then goes on to describe a powdery, sweet oriental, giving it 3 stars.
I don't find it to be an oriental at all - despite its tonka and vanilla components - nor do I find it to be a buttery floral - to be that it would have had to include tuberose, gardenia, lily or jasmine.
My take on it is that it is a light floral floating over a soft patchouli presence, so light in fact that it is almost a non-scent. One has to splash liberally to get any effect at all.
Pleasant, but nondescript, and not worth its price.
Try as I might, I cannot bring myself to layer perfume. Buried somewhere in my mind is a deep-rooted taboo against compromising the integrity of even third-rate compositions. The opening of L’inspiratrice made me think about layering, for it emerges like two perfumes side by side. One is a soft, boozy, lipsticky patchouli that’s been feeding on tonka; the other is a bright, almost sour, raspberryish rose. They play with each other without really achieving the union (ecstatic or otherwise) of other rose-patchouli combos, but that isn’t a criticism; I enjoyed the two distinct personalities travelling in this particular carriage tremendously, hoping both would want to keep in touch at the end of the ride.
The bridge however gets crossed by the patchouli, which by now mellows further, picking up a vanillic sweetness and powder. What’s left of the rose is a mere blush. L’inspiratrice in the drydown positively purrs with contentment on my skin.
However, about four hours in, all one is left with is somewhat musty baby powder which fortunately sits close to the skin, so it is safe to reapply and start the journey again.
A nice concoction of acidic rose and patchouli that opens with a classic perfumery vibe to turn, in the drydown, into a very comfortable vanilla/ambery base that's extremely powdery but incredibly refined and balanced. Surely not a groundbreaking release and, probably, not among the most distinctive compositions in this genre but still pretty nice and well crafted.
26th October, 2011 (last edited: 02nd November, 2011)
Divine L'INSPIRATRICE is a rich, smooth, and viscous oriental perfume whose primary appeal to me lies in the drydown, at the culmination of a journey through a couple of oriental twists and turns, beginning with a rather boozy opening stage. There are a lot of rose-patchouli perfumes to choose from these days, and those notes number among the components of L'INSPIRATRICE, but to my nose, this is much more of an amber-esque oriental than either a rose or a sweet patchouli composition.
After a rather boozy opening, this perfume eventually arrives at a gorgeously golden, slightly sweet amberish drydown with a touch of patchouli. As is generally the case with hefty orientals, this one has both fairly big sillage and excellent longevity. I find the opening of L'INSPIRATRICE slightly less inspiring, though it's certainly not bad, but the drydown if not quite divine, is certainly very nice.
I'm already a fan of the 'rose - vanilla - patchouli' trio, and it is very nicely presented here. It has the same feel as some Rosine's I've sampled. Well blended, the rose is not cloying at all. Almost comes across a little fruity/boozy ~ very rich. Thumbs up.