Perfume Directory

Equistrius (2007)
by Parfum d'Empire


Equistrius information

Year of Launch2007
GenderShared / Unisex
AvailabilityIn Production
Average Rating
(based on 75 votes)

People and companies

HouseParfum d'Empire

About Equistrius

Equistrius is a shared / unisex perfume by Parfum d'Empire. The scent was launched in 2007

Equistrius fragrance notes

Reviews of Equistrius

John Singer Sargent - The Olive Grove 1908
27th December, 2016 (last edited: 04th January, 2017)
Equistrius is a soft, musky delight – an iris perfume that allows its normally recalcitrant, aloof self to be cajoled into a supine position on a chaise longue and be fed chocolate bon bons all day. The violet note is dewy and sweet and oh my God, right there, up top, with the rice powder note, ready to force the pleasure receptors in your brain wide open. Time and time again, I’m reminded why Marc-Antoine Corticchiato is one of the best perfumers around. Equistrius is iris made into supple pleasure.

Almost immediately, the violet and the iris and the rice powder become wrapped up in a baby blanket of rich, perfumey musk from the ambrette seed, with tiny hints of bread-cumin, hay, and apple peel flitting around the edges.

But mostly, the ambrette musk is a textural thing, causing a fuzzy wool-like aura to grow around the iris and violet. The individual notes become less and less distinct in the heart as they get subsumed completely by the musk, and if there’s one complaint I have about this fragrance, it’s that the “perfumey” character it assumes has a tendency to obscure the beauty and brilliance of the iris and the violet. This dwindling away into abstraction makes me want to re-spray over and over again just to relive that beautiful, bold beginning.

In theory, I’d love a big bottle of this. But the attenuation of character and definition over the course of the scent’s life gives me serious pause for thought.
18th April, 2016
A very decent powdery, slightly fruity iris.

The initial chocolate note brings on the impression of leather or suede, as mentioned elsewhere in these reviews. It is rather linear with me, staying quietly close to the skin.

It is not in the league of the great irises (Iris Gris, Iris Silver Mist), but it is a perfectly nice iris for all that. Comparisons to Dior Homme do not work for me. I am one of the few who dislike that scent for its harshness. Equistrius is a gentle scent that could be worn by either men or women and in almost any atmosphere or role of the day.

A good scent for beginners exploring the world of iris scents.
20th January, 2016
With plenty of lipstick iris and supple suede, Equistrius is an over-inflated balloon of a scent that walks the line between cosmetics and leather. The iris is perfectly recognizable as iris yet doesn’t aim for photorealism; instead, it taps into the suede for a profile that signifies as a kind of glowing cyan blue. However, both the iris and the leather are coddled by a prominent yet anonymous “perfume” — a somewhat redundant scaffold that smells both sweetly oriental and vaguely musky. The result is a scent that's perhaps a bit too bloated with both the iris and the suede drowning in too many pillowy layers. As with others in this line, Equistrius is fairly linear (with a gradual slouch from iris to tonka) but it’s neatly blended with no spikes. It’s a little too distended and “perfume” for my liking, but for a boomy oriental iris, it’s a solid choice.
30th August, 2015
It's interesting how the reviews of Equistrius are so evenly divided. It's a quietly seductive scent that lays close to the skin and has plenty of mystery. I don't get any chocolate notes which seem to be listed in the notes for the scent elsewhere and it isn't at all sweet. This as it is a beautiful rendering of whispery iris with soft, suede undertones. I just wish it projected a little better and lasted a little longer. A woman or a man could enjoy this.
30th July, 2014
What this has to do with racehorses is beyond me. It starts out with a brief burst of tart citrus and bright floral notes, then quickly transforms into a sweet, powdery iris, backed by light musk, soft sandalwood and slightly bitter violet leaves. Iris is where Equistrius stays for most of its lifespan. This is not the blunt, rooty iris of Iris Bleu Gris or the crisp, transparent, green-tinted iris of Hiris. No, this is somewhere between the smooth, buttery iris of Iris Poudre and the sweet, candied iris of Dior Homme. It's kept from being flat and cloying by the bitter edge of its violet leaf note. Without that it might be oppressively powdery and sweet. The sum impression on me is of a very smooth, creamy and nutty scent that wraps my senses in a satiny mantle.

As Equistrius develops, an anise or licorice-like note (not listed) wells up behind the iris, casting a cool spicy-herbaceous shadow over the proceedings. The entire development takes place close to the skin, with little sillage or projection. The scent is not short-lived by any means, but because it wears so close it's easy to forget you have it on. In its drydown Equistrius fades into a sweet sandalwood foundation with a touch of warm ambergris and a lingering trace of powdery iris.

While it's hardly earthshaking, Equistrius is a nicely blended, easy-to-wear scent that's obviously composed of very fine ingredients. It's also a thoroughly unisex fragrance and a safe choice for those who seek an iris scent but are put off by some of the more obviously frilly or aggressively earthy entries in the field.
13th June, 2014

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