Reviews of Aomassai 10
by Parfumerie Generale

Pierre Guillaume’s scents for his own Parfumerie Generale line have been hit-or-miss for me. Some, like Querelle, Yuzu Ab Irato, Coze, and L’Oiseau de Nuit, have been “just OK” as far as I’m concerned. Others, including Intrigant Patchouli and Jardins de Kerylos, have been out-of-the-ball-park hits. Though as a gourmand oriental Aomassai is not the type of scent I normally enjoy, I must now group it with those last two among my favorites from this house.

Smoky vanilla, toasted nuts, and burnt sugar support a smoldering heart accord of incense, licorice, and spices. This dark, dark composition is ideally balanced: the intense smoky quality keeps the structure from teetering into oppressive sweetness. What could have been a trite, cloying scent is instead a paragon of warm, brooding mystery. Aomassai demonstrates what so many inferior gourmand scents could be but aren’t. A marvelous achievement in a difficult genre.

Though now I am a big fan, I wasn't so sure about Aomassai for the first week I was getting to know it. I originally found the caramel opening lacking in richness, as though it were cut 50/50 with water, a very strange sensation. But I came to appreciate the way this less intense sweetness melds so seamlessly with a grassy accord which I can't say is the straight up vetiver note I've come to know. No, this really smells like grass, but again, smoothed out, almost watered down -- a painting in water colors. Toasted hazelnuts, watery grass and watered down caramel whose warm, burnt notes come into focus later on in the development, soft spice, silky woods: The result is a very intriguing, modern, somehow sophisticated and chic combination. This grassy accord, I just can't get enough of how oddly satisfying it is juxtaposed, or I should technically say, woven into, these softly sweet gourmand notes.

I also thought of Mechant Loup while trying to get at the heart of this fragrance. Though they don't smell alike, I think Mechant Loup is an easy fragrance to draw a parallel with to a certain degree because they have a similar "weight" (come to think of it, Aomassai has a very L'Artisan sensibility while retaining commendable lasting power) and they both have gourmand notes and a gourmand feel but intriguingly, they are initially not warm fragrances, but rather, almost cool, wistful, melancholic, evocative of something outside their sweet notes. I know I'm falling prey to the perfumer's description of his own scent but when I wear this, I do feel transported somehow to a vast, open African plane, sitting in the tall grass, the wind carrying something sweet, burnt, cooking above a distant fire. I'm sold. Aomassai is not only a wonderful work of art but also an incredibly satisfying, wearable and versatile fragrance.

Opening accord is sour and watery..Like maybe damp rotten wood...it takes some time to settle to the lovely smell of hazelnuts..here im reminded of the seminal release by L'Artisan Parfumer, Mechant Loup. from here on, it pretty much smells like roasted shells with touch of spices.. after an hour or so, this scent evokes touch of sweetness and smokiness..so what was devoid of any sweetness suddenly reveals sweeter accords...i find this this pretty interesting in PG scents. seems he enjoys doing development of scent in phases. the base is pretty soft and woody with hint of sweetness from resins. stays close to skin though. i'd prefer Mechant loup over it...sorry...

Aomassai is a distinctive gourmand that opens up complexly with roasted hazelnuts, caramel, and a melange of spices, drying down to a simple accord of vanilla and woods. It's an EDT, so longevity and sillage is just average despite the strong start.

This is beautiful, complex, mysterious and perfectly balanced. It's a little tangy at first with a strong vetiver and wood before settling into the wonderful sweet but never cloying mix of vanilla, caramel, nuts and woods. The dry down is extremely pleasant. Staying power seems fantastic with 11 hours and counting for me. I absolutely love it.

This one reminds me of Ava Luxe's Crème Brûlée but is more complex and better composed, with a perfectly balanced sweetness. It's also more superior (and more grown-up) than the other gourmands of this category (Lolita Empicka, A*Men, Rochas Man, etc.). However, while I love the composition of this over, say, Serge Lutens’ Douce Amère, its lasting power is disappointing to say the least.

Personally, this should have been released as an EDP. I'm very much hoping that Aomassai will, one day, be made part of the private collection (which consists only of EDPs) – a fate that was granted to Querelle.

[Original submission date: 11 July 2008]

My experience with this one is vastly different from those who describe Aomassai as sweet, warm, or inviting. I expected this to be like a richer, more nuanced Tutti Dolci Creme Brulee, and it was, for a couple minutes at the beginning. Then Aomassai became coolly medicinal, burning my nostrils like a camphor or a menthol. (Maybe that's the celery? or the woods? both?) This persisted for nine hours. Underneath that heavy, chilly blanket slept something vaguely resembling a gourmand. The idea of this one is intriguing, and it probably is, on someone who wears it well. But I don't wear it well.

Parfumerie Generale Aomassai

Notes: caramel, toasted hazelnuts, licorice, bitter orange, spices, wenge wood, vetiver, balsam wood, incense, dried grasses, resins (from luckyscent.com)

On first spray, Aomassi is incredibly sweet, the main note being burnt and caramelized sugar. Under this note is something more "fresh" and green smelling--I was not sure what this could be, so I sprayed the fragrance on a tissue for slower development. The green note smells very much like celery to me, both watery and herbal. I find the smell of celery to be rather off-putting, and its presence really takes a note I find difficult (burnt sugar) and turns it into a nauseating mess. Imagine the combination of carbon (smoky, gritty), sugar (sweet), caramel (balsamic) and celery (medicinal, aquatic). I am pretty sure this is a love-it-or-hate-it combination of notes, and unfortunately, it is one that I find almost intolerable. I am thankful that there is not anything *wrong* with this accord, i.e., I have no headache, runny nose, nor any hyperosmia. I simply do not like it. And it doesn't help that it turns my stomach.

The top accord wears off after about an hour to reveal a sweet vanillic, powdery and light floral middle and base. The drydown is lovely, although not anything ground breaking. The powder is nicely subdued and never becomes harsh or sharp. The vanilla is well done, slightly woody and leathery, and does not venture into cooking extract territory. There is a tiny bit of spice which is barely perceptible. I am sure the spice helps round out the fragrance, especially since the sweetness carries all through the development. The very late drydown is faint, and smells vaguely dry, woody, spicy and powdery. Longevity is low, around 3 hours, and sillage is light to moderate. Aomassi seems quite feminine, but with its smoky and green top notes, a man may enjoy it also.

Gag! Thick and syrupy chocolate and woods. While I like gourmand scents, does something need to be this intense? And as far as I know, it's an EdT! While I find the scent absolutely delicious, it is not bearable to wear.

When I put this on, I immediately thought of reading a book in a cozy home library, wearing a rich robe and fuzzy slippers. The perfume immediately engendered a "comfort" feeling for me. At first, the initial smell was a bit too sweet (even for me and I am generally a huge fan of sweeter gourmands) but the drydown just made me fall in love. It brought back memories of walking through the crisp fall leaves in damp weather, smelling the smoke from chimneys and the smell of hot chocolate wafting through the air. An amazing perfume.

Toasted hazelnuts, caramel and licorice open this stunning gourmand with flair! Not too sweet either. Enticing and amazing, just can't help but snorfle my wrist! Soon after these sweets have tickled my palate, the warmth and smokiness of incense & spice slowly come forth. Underlying is a constant wafting of balsam, keeping balance with vetiver and 'dried grass' accord. If ever there was a scent offering "tidings of comfort and joy" - this is it! Clever, well crafted, bottle-worthy!

I've tried many times to enjoy this more, but it's very much a neutral for me. It starts out like canned cake icing, has some middle notes that almost hint at some woody depth, but that soon vanishes and it leaves you with a cotton candy base that lasts an incredible amount of time. Even just a dab on the hand will be detectable 13 hours later.

Opens with a sweet caramel and spice over a woody background, like resin. I get a distinct butterscotch accord. This is a gourmand fragrance that doesn't become too heavy- handed with the candy. It even has a bit of a leather charactersitic. Interesting.

Many of PG's line have gourmand notes, so it's not surprising that a full gourmand would be so rich and full. Caramel and licorice are the primary notes, but as with Yohji Homme, there is a distinct roasted quality to the entire fragrance that keeps it from becoming sweet and cloying. Take Yojhi Homme, roast it for another couple hours to take out the sweetness, and you'd be close to this.

There are definitely some background notes of wood and incense that give body and depth to the Aomassai, but in a discrete way that never interferes with the gourmand-ness of the entire fragrance. The incense becomes somewhat more noticeable in the base, at which point the composition in general becomes slightly musky. Serge Lutens' Un Bois Vanille is a similar fragrance in that it recreates an aromatic atmosphere (of say, a coffee shop or a bakery), but for some reason Aomassai is less sweet and more wearable. Perhaps this is because Aomassai does not rely on vanilla or coffee notes, as most gourmands do.

I'm perplexed at the reviewer that experienced poor longevity. I literally dabbed the back of my hand with the sample vial - not even one spray - and I could smell it for hours and hours. Two sprays would be more than enough for a morning-til-bed application for me.

If you like the PG line you have to try to this - but avoid at all costs if you don't like gourmands.

Published notes: caramel, toasted hazelnuts, licorice, bitter orange, spices, wenge wood, vetiver, balsam wood, incense, dried grasses, resins (per Luckyscent.com)

absolutely lovely, thought not for everyone. suitable for colder months (i've already worn it during summer and it's fine, but the colder months and wool scarves and pullovers let the scent stand out more). imagine gourmand caramel paired with burning leaves and maybe a hint of dark bitter chocolate and woods.

A favorite gourmand. I get quite a bit of licorice, but for some reason it's not bothersome to me, though I usually dislike licorice accord. Probably because it's expertly blended with nuts, vanilla, a hint of caramel, and a deep dark chocolate that comes on slowly in the fragrance's prograssion. Despite the above it is NOT sweet, so you gooey sticky sweet dessert gourmand lovers might not like it. I'm finding out that I love most gourmands, sweet and not. Extra points for creativity-for coming up with such an interesting & grownup gourmand. I understand the Angel analogy brought up by LisaWood, and I can see aspects of Aomassai where that rings true, but to me it's much better, without the skank/b.o. accord that makes Angel unwearable on my skin. A wishlist item.

Aomassi by Parfumerie Generale starts like a beautiful dessert, with delicious caramel, nut and vanilla scents. If you like sweet foody scents you’ll love this. It then develops a tangy aspect from aromatic vetiver and a bit of wood, as well as a dried-grass smoky aspect. This is a complex scent, with the tangy and sweet elements alternating. Ultimately the sweet wins. The promised resins and woods are under-developed in my opinion. This is a lovely scent, I’d like to encounter it on a woman (or encounter a woman wearing it...). But it is of no interest to me to wear, it is not my style.

It's a strange one.....a bit like "Angel" only less face slapping....personally more for a woman than a man in my opinion. Smell of chocolate still there 4 hours later.