Bois de Copaiba opens with a rough and intoxicating accord of booze and almonds on woods, rooty notes, a brownish, dusty and slightly sweet-caramelised note of myrrh, ginger, tonka, spices and sandalwood. A resinous, earthy and boozy concoction with a subtle fruity-balsamic breeze which softens and refreshed this huge pile of spices, resins and sweet steamy Oriental stuff. Feels like an explorer falling off his dirigible right into the heart of a mysterious forest of some Oriental island (and having a good time with a bottle of Amaretto). On the very base, a light camphoraceous note which may be benzoin links to a sweet sandalwood note providing a solid, slightly dark woody base. Finally I also smell something a earthy-pollen like heliotrope but I don't see such note listed. There is apparently no iris in here, but besides the boozy-spicy resins and the woods, I clearly smell a rooty-buttery note which reminds me of orris roots, although it is less powdery here and more on the "materic", organic side of, actually, "fat" buttery roots - I guess it's the ginger with almondy notes and resins which creates this feel. So, quite a bold blend, brownish and woody for sure, which obviously reminded me Baiser du Dragon a lot given the boozy-almondy "Amaretto di Saronno" feel, and also, less immediately, of L'Heure Bleue, with all respect to differences since Copaiba is far less sumptuous, less powdery and less "classic" - and more modern, more woody and more boozy. The fact this scent is quite bold and almost intoxicating for quite a while may be a defect as it can easily become boring and haunting soon, plus its drydown is not as good as you may expect (some metallic-alcoholic nuances make it more cloying than it already is), but it has surely a distinctive presence which may work on the right person. Hell persistent.
Bois de Copaiba goes on sweet and spicy, presaging another Parfumerie Generale gourmand to stand alongside Cadjmere, Coze, or Aomassai, but its character soon alters. While the spices persist, I’m surprised as the opening sweet fruity notes graft themselves onto a robust leathery accord. What accounts for my impression of leather here I cannot say, since neither birch tar nor labdanum are listed in the pyramid published at Luckyscent.com. I can only guess that the combination of bittersweet citrus rind and dark woods at the heart of Bois de Copaiba alludes to cured leather in a sideways manner that convinces my nose. Something in this heart accord strikes me as anachronistic - perhaps even nostalgic - as if I were wearing a scent from the early twentieth century, and not a modern niche fragrance.
As Bois de Copaiba wears it becomes progressively drier and woodier. A healthy dose of myrrh in the base eventually makes this a medicinally bitter scent, so that it’s not only very, very dark, but also hard and craggy in its profile. Bois de Copaiba dries down (or should I say “dries out”) to an arid, almost desolate accord of myrrh and dusty sandalwood, projecting admirably, but not intrusively, all the while. For a woody scent, I do find Bois de Copaiba oddly fleeting, though I can’t tell whether I’m habituating to it or it’s actually fading within a couple of hours. It’s a distinctive scent with an interesting evolution, but I wish it persisted longer on me.
At the beginning you are invested by a delicious and almost boozy amaretto explosion, something at once boozy, almondy, spicy/fruity and balmy conjuring on the olfactory sphere the taste of the famous Italian liqueur Amaretto, something luxurious and vaguely baroque with hints of secretly aromatic, almost minty patterns yet rising up from the composition. The juice is carnal and yes, i would say exotic in the sense of lush and sumptuous. I detect an accord of cinnamon and orange in the mix while probably the ginger is responsible of the aromatic/cool vibe. I guess a touch of amber is hidden somewhere and it is something well linked with a smokey, creamy, seasoned and damp woodiness in the base. The dry down preserves the standout balmy/almondy/eliothropic vibe becoming along the way more white/musky and powdery (musk/myrrh) with vague reminiscences about fragrances as Phul-Nana Grossmith and Ambre et Vanille E.Coudray.
I think the PG is correct. This smells like L'Heure Bleu with benzoin and myrrh added. I don't get much leather at all. It has a rich, resinous , dense fruity smell that PG has used before to such good effect with Louanges. Distinctive, classy and lasts well.
This entire composition is dominated by one of the notes from Creed's Royal English Leather, which ultimately weakens the fragrance. Beneath that it's a fruity, soapy, leather with a solid helping of some type of wood. I honestly didn't recognize this wood at all, but a little google-fu regarding the word "Copaiba" helped me out a bit as to what it was.
go ahead, I'll wait...
Irrespective of what the wood is, it smells like a quality piece of furniture. And now that I've googled Copaiba I understand that this could be because a resin is harvested from the tree and used as varnish. Of course now I'm just speculating and pontificating and I'm sure I look like an ass doing so to any botanists reading this. And there's also a bit of a cereal note in there too.
Anyway, it's that damn REL note that keeps me from loving this.
Amazingly rich and full bodied orange, smells very "expensive" thanks to the superbly balmy and resinous woods that backs the composition. The opening is decidedly citrussy with gingery undertones that seem to fan the orange into a live and breathing accord that smells very "crushed and pulpy", simply put -- it's just perfect. The sweet Myrrh appears midway into application, warming up the entire palette of notes and accords until it dries down to a woody musky and the tiniest bit powdery, and in my opinion a rather quixotic whisper of a drydown.