Etat Libre d'Orange - Tom of Finland
A hard to digest and very turn-off perfume for me - it tries to stand out but fails by lacking structure and a clear vision. Different kind of notes pop up, screaming for attention but they stand alone in a mix that doesnt has enough linear flow to it.
It has a cold anisic-'vodka'(Finlandia?) opening, followed by an almost 'icy' mentholic-peppery spiciness together with green geranium/lavender/cypres-notes and candlewax-aldehydes, with tonka-bean already peeping through. There is safraleine with a hot-herbal tone that later on gets to smell like a mix of roundish wood-notes with a nice tobacco-like side to it, that, to my taste is its best moment. It moves to a thin leathery note with green lemons rubbed in it, which then is drowned in a bath of sweet berry-syrup which makes it somehow smell like 'liquid marzipan in a rusty metal cup' - with a harsh bitter-sour smell reminding of pieces of banana steeped in grapefruit-juice.
This is the point where my nose gets frustrated and only slightly recovers deep in its dryout, when a nice salty vanilla-note is displayed. Strange that it settles down in a big amber kind-of-way and trying to combine it with a suede-leather note that smells more like foldable plastic. There are interesting notes in this perfume but it smells more like a exhibition of smells than actually focus on a stable balance in its blending. Tom can stay in Finland.
Orange, citrus, green/floral notes and perhaps aniseed/caraway, a mentholated note of geranium on a suede-ambery base rounded by a slight powdery feel. Pretty much it. Nice, well-packed, quite distinctive although a bit "empty" for me, lacking in depth and other quality features I personally look for in scents. A sort of contemporary, more abstract, more delicate and trasparent take on the classic chypre structure, "citrus-floral" on "leather-powder" via "green-balsamic". I guess that's for youngsters who would like to smell like that, still all that smells too "old" and strong for them. Aldehydated metallic notes up, down, left and right. The drydown is decent as well, balsamic-musky (white) and clean, although a bit boring and slightly sticky and sweetish. Linear, young and fairly elegant, sometimes unpredictable (in a bright way), but overall a bit mute, pale and dull to me, as many of these "modern" scents of today's for which "modernity" or avantgarde becomes simply a synonym for being stuffed with aromachemicals – nothing against them "per se", but to be honest, sometimes I don't know if it's a matter of style choices or rather of parsimony with materials, or lack of talent. However this one in particular is unoffensive but safe, nice and wearable. I don't know the price but given the hype around this brand it will be surely overpriced.
One of those rare things: a summer scent with both sunny brightness and lingering substance. So often, it's the substance that's missing with the lighter-hued scents. Not here.
Never an admirer of the whole Tom of Finland aesthetic, i could easily just have ignored this altogether. A shame that would have been; the fragrance is just too good and refined. Powdery and sweet but yet sharp and rubbery to start with, the fragrance dries down into a warm, dry suede with just enough of that industrial rubber left to give it weight and a certain urban edginess. Striking, but yet warm and somehow classy. So aside from the rubber, ToF doesn't match its imagery at all. Anyway, spring/summer can come!
Pros: Great modern masculine; wonderful scent for both work and play; warm, sensual drydown; great longevity (on me).
Cons: Much too clean -- but only for those expecting a sweaty musk bomb to match the imagery.
20th February, 2014 (last edited: 23rd February, 2014)
Classy and floral leather opening, classy and intriguing...one of the most sophisticated and delicate of the leathers!
Suede made from saffron and some pine soap
This has been the biggest perfume challenge for me so far.
First of all there is the name. I admit I was at first afraid that this was going to be some super gay or ultra feminine fragrance.
Then there is the smell. It starts so strong that it made me feel really uneasy.
After that it was just some vanilla and dull, suedelike saffron.
This perfume really surprises you when you are in open air. Then you smell lovely pine and soft aldehydes.
We here in Finland have an old habit to wash our carpets with river water and pine soap at summer. We prefer to use this traditional soap, because it's nature friendly. This mäntysuopa smells quite good and this reminds me a bit of it. Except that this smells even better.
I'm seriously considering buying a bottle.
Pros: strong, good value
Cons: challenging opening