Jubilation XXV (2007)
by Amouage

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Jubilation screams if you’re listening. The synthetic woody-amber blows out of the bottle like a newly released prisoner with a hundred dollars in his pocket. It’s a rich woody oriental that makes great use of spices, plump fruit and incense. It reminds me of a few I’ve smelled before, but comparisons are unnecessary because Jubilation XXV is significantly better than most all of them. It’s made of extremely high quality raw materials operating on a solid and sizeable structure, but there are times when the woody-amber feels like it could turn into something burdensome. Fortunately it stays under control, rather than skyrocketing like so many woody-amber prominent fragrances do, Heritage (Guerlain) is a good example. As good as Jubilation XXV is, it still occasionally feels like it’s blowing a storm whistle in my ear in order to get my attention, and that’s been the case with almost every masculine fragrance from this house. Most of them feel glaring in their attempt to be fashionable, and often times they just feel entirely ridiculous. There’s no doubt that the orientalist Duchaufour was the man for the job, and I think if the final product would have been up to him it would have been a little less gussied up. But this is a superb effort, and there are few masculine orientals that match up.

Like all of them, you might need to give it time to fully perceive it, but in this case the amount of time probably won’t be more than a few weeks to a couple of months. I still find the woody-amber noticeable, but it’s of little concern because the fragrance is so good otherwise. It‘s intoxicating and it just smells great, it’s easy to wear, and it has very few faults. It’s a paragon of blending, and I can’t think of a spicy-oriental that I’d recommend instead of it.

A previous review mentioned that Jubilation XXV is "understated". Perhaps that's correct if you're looking for a variation of Chergui or some other nuclear type thing, but otherwise it's highly inaccurate. In Jubilation XXV, the composition is substantial, and it just stretches, sings, and excels in all areas. There are many things I like about it, but one of the most striking things about it is that much of the sweetness and depth comes from a rich-warm-sultry-and balsamic labdanum and opopanax, and there is no benzoin or vanilla to be found. That in itself is a miracle. This stuff is as cool as the other side of your pillow, and if you're talking about a luxurious spicy-woody oriental, it's damn near perfect.

JUBILATION XXV pops open with a fizz, much like uncorking a bottle of fine wine. If that carbonated whiff is the work of Iso E Super then I'm thankful it doesn't stick around - it smells too synthetic. The rummy yet dry opening swiftly recedes to herald the arrival of a sumptuous if not opulent blend of dried fruit and spices amidst smoky incense and resinuous woods. But wait - haven't I smelled this before? You bet. By Kilian's Straight To Heaven is another similar take on the celebratory toast and was released in that same year. Coincidence? Perhaps. But I figured Bertrand Duchaufour and Sidonie Lancesseur probably met and gave each other a toast in celebration of their next creation. Salut!

Natural-smelling and dusty spices? Check.
Oud? Check.
High quality dried fruits, dates and plum? Check.
Super expensive silver frankincense? Check.
Ambery, fizzy, synthetic cedar accord that costs 5 cents a litre (ie. Iso E Super)? Check. Wait... WHAT?

I can hear Amouage's creative director and Duchaufour discussing it now: "Ok, so refresh me on why we're putting Iso E Super in here? Ohhhh right, 'cause otherwise this would have been one of the world's best fragrances and we can't have that now can we?"

What a shame... I swear to God, this fragrance could have been my holy grail. Could have been the best thing I've ever sniffed.... could have should have would have... but they had to go and mix the best ingredients in the world with one of the cheapest, most chemical smelling ingredients in the world, Iso E Super. Thanks Amouage - for taking my dreams, blowing them up and then shooting them down.

8.5/10 (But could have been a 10/10 without the Iso E Super)

P.S. I'd like to give this a thumbs down just out of spite, but Jubilation XXV is still a very special fragrance that I manage to enjoy, so I absolutely have to give it a thumbs up after all. The rest of the ingredients definitely make up for that synthetic cedar accord - it's just that they shouldn't have to...!

One of the best scents i have ever worn. opens with a bitter, light brown textured coffee note with lots of dust and hints of plum/date like fruity accord and cinnamon/clove like spices. the feel is pretty refined and dynamic. under this lush accord lies a lush mid notes of patchouli, rose and fruits...under this serene accord frankincense and other accords of incense provides a certain coolness...like midnight in desert... as claimed by Amouage, it indeed is one of the best accord of frankincense one would ever experience. Top notch scent worth all the accolades and the price.

This is one of those scents: the kind that I often get stuck with because it seems so impressive at first sniff. It is so impressive – unique, rich, refined – resinous woods and incenses that cause pain because they were so beautiful – I lusted for it, and I almost dumped $290 at that first sniff. Fully ensconced in that mindset, I decide to write a review describing its greatness instead of buying immediately. I wished to show the world how excellent Amouage Jubilation XXV is. And that desire was its undoing… you see, to write a review I have to put aside my mindset and begin using my actual brain. At my second wearing I noticed the fruit / signature note and felt the first tinge of disappointment – I react to it the same way I react to the house note of Ormande Jayne: I don’t dislike it but it just doesn’t push any buttons for me. My third wearing I noticed the signature fruit note and noticed the signature fruit note, and continued and continued to notice the signature fruit note. Why, I wondered, am I noticing this signature note when what I really want is to notice the frankincense, labdanum, and gaicwood notes all those resinous treasures supposedly inhabiting the fragrance? The answer, of course, is – those luxurious, resinous diamonds and sapphires fade quickly while the signature fruit notes rise to prominence, and the fruitiness is hell bent to dominate the total olfactory real estate regardless for my desire for those richer, rarer, soul fulfilling resinous jewels.,, I tried Vibert’s suggestion of applying a heavy dose of liquid, but it had the opposite effect on my skin. The fragrance became softer and lost sillage, while creating an oil slick on my skin. …I’ve never noticed the drydown (if there is one) because after six or seven testings of two or three hours of smelling a not very interesting dried fruit note, I’ve completely lost interest, and I mean that I feel indifferent to anything connected to this fragrance. Thank you, Amouage, for making yet another one-third of a thousand dollar fragrance that I have little interest in buying…

All that being said, Jubilation XXV is a very good fragrance – the only Amouage that I might consider buying besides the discontinued Silver Crystal. JXXV is of undoubtedly high quality ingredients. The artistry of the blendings is superior. It is highly wearable and it is much more adaptable than previous Amouages: Jubilation XXV will work with jeans or tuxedos or anything in between. The quality is there... the passion isn't.

So, I took on board Vibert’s advice, about spraying liberally, and spritzed my arm at least a dozen times but Jubilation XXV hardly produced much sillage. Its longevity was admirable and most of the notes were detectable but I was still left underwhelmed. In addition, it occasionally reminded of something that I tested months ago but can no longer recall what it was.

Jubilation XXV is great for fans of Richard James EDT or any of the men’s offerings by Creed, Ormonde Jayne and Divine but, for me, it was too understated and unoriginal to pay almost £150 for a 100ml bottle. I have no reservations about the quality of the composition but, for the high price tag, I want to be blown away – literally...

[Original submission date: 05 July 2008]