I agree very much with cutypi by saying Caron's Tubereuse was like Haute Couture! I think this is very true for its style and mood.
Sugandaraja has done a formidable review on this, so I only add a few impressions.
Tubereuse starts off like a fresh, green, almost slightly mentholated and redux tuberose. This is perfectly alright for me, who has troubles with tuberose as a note that usually is in your face, so to say.
I absolutely love the slightly smoky, musky facet that is noticeable from one hour into your wearing onwards. There is only a hint of the buttery aspect of tuberose in this Richard Fraysse creation. If violet leaf is in here for the sharper edges, I can't detect it and it is used extremely cleverly. My guess is that geranium is a significant helper here, which would help to explain the fresh, almost mentholated edge mentioned before. Sillage is rather redux after 2-3 hours leaving a very discreet fresh but not cold vibe. I think Tubereuse is one of the creations with the most masterfully achieved balance between obvious contradictory notes. The result is a highly sophisticated, elegant and stylish (haute couture) fragrance that is further proof of Fraysse's good work at Caron.
This is a very interesting tuberose- thanks to my generous perfume pal for the sample. :)
It's development is fascinating. There is a cool beginning - almost dusted sugar candy opening. Then it gets a little musty flowery , orange blossom emerges and I think oh Fracas ! before it moves on to a 'face cream' tuberose note. That's the only way I can think of describing it. It's not unpleasant but there is a vintage feel to it. Quietly enduring. Well thought out ,good juice. However Carnal Flower has become my reference tuberose .This is still 1 star short of Carnal Flower to me.
There's something eldritch about Caron's tuberose. If the cool serenity of Carnal Flower feels unapproachable at times, Tubereuse is downright uninviting. The lavish charm associated with the flower has been dessicated to a somber reserve. Mr. Fraysse has created a saturnine soliflore, to be sure...
The top notes are distinctly odd - a sugared, floral creaminess melded to an astringent green, violet leaf and a slight sharpness lending it a witch hazel tonic accord I've come across only once before, in Dawn Spencer Hurwitz's Viridian. I also smell a mushroom note I recognize from Frederic Malle's Dans Tes Bras, but more natural and successfully integrated here. If all this sounds horrid and dissonant, it isn't quite so pronounced as you might imagine, as its sharp edges softened by a floral haze.
In the drydown, a little more of the flower itself comes through, but again, quite modified, here by an almost leathery moss. At no time does Tubereuse ever smell like a living flower, and rather than a stroll through a tropical garden, I'm put in mind of a Chinese medicine shop, filled to the ceiling with giant, dried fungi and buckets of herbs.
In terms of sillage, Tubereuse is a little reclusive once the drydown arrives, but it lasts quite well, as a good parfum should.
Caron's Tubereuse is one of the quietest and most sophisticated renditions of the flower that I have come across. This is a tuberose fit for someone like Audrey Hepburn or Grace Kelly, glamorous, ladylike and bewitching without endangering its supreme state of elegance.
It isn't a high pitched as Fracas, not as dark as Carnal Flower or as interesting as Parfumerie Generale's Tubereuse Couture...it is definitely to me the sort of Dior's New Look of Tuberose: all pearls and cut suits and neat and manicured nails paired with a Hermes Kelly bag. Somehow Caron has tamed the most untame-able of flowers and made it serene.
But don't get me wrong, even in its sophisticated quiteness, Caron still sings a very buttery tuberose tune. Sillage is amazing. If Fracas is a baguette diamond, Caron's Tubereuse is its princess cut diamond solitare sister.
Caron's Tubereuse is distinguished as "the star's perfume" and there is no question that it is absolutely heavenly. One of my all time favorites, and one of Caron's best. It is deep, rich and mysterious. This fragrance has the richness and depth of a traditional Caron. It has a candied woodsy base, a green middle and a floral top. If one had to compare Fracas to Tubereuse, the former is pret a porte and latter is haute couture.