Rose Aoud
by Martine Micallef

While it seems that many niche houses are releasing oud lines these days (or at least oud-heavy scents), Micallef's Aoud line stands out above the rest, including (and especially) Montale. Montale seems to be in to release as many fragrances as possible, causing many of their new releases to be lacking in different aspects. Especially the rose/ouds fragrances, of which Montale has at least a half-dozen, seem to just be rose and oud thrown together in different ratios and bottled.

Micallef's Aouds are meticulously balanced, with the oud simulaneously balancing and allowing the contrasting notes to shine. Rose Aoud is particularly well balanced. The rose note is full and sweet, obviously derived from high quality rose oil. In fact the rose note surpasses the quality of Montale's Highness Rose vis-a-vis depth of the rose note. The oud note is at first strong and medicinal but without being overpowering. The strength of the oud recedes somewhat rapidly, though it never fully disappears. The rose itself starts out as fairly sweet but is slowly joined by subtle green notes and eventually a lightly sweet woodiness. The sillage at first is extreme but it settles into a reasonably strong fragrance. As with many of the MIcallefs, longevity is very, very good. When I sample this on my arm at night it's present well into the next morning.

There are some guys for whom anything with rose will be considered feminine, and they will likely not want to wear this. For everybody else Rose Aoud is fully wearable and highly recommended. The only other rose/oud I'd consider would by Amouage Lyric Men, though that's an entirely different take on the accord. I would take the Micallef over any Montale rose/oud, regardless of price.

11th August, 2009.

Beautiful, nice fragrance for women with awful price tag. Oud on this doesn`t last that long, that medicinal tinge hits you gently at the beginning but then it`s gone almost completely, although it is able to create that smooth, silky like structure to this fragrance all way through.
Drydown is very smooth indeed, candied rosey, with a hint of white chocolate like creaminess. Very feminine to my nose, shares some similaries to Montale`s Red Aoud.

From the manufacturer :

"This scent was made for the kind of woman, who wants to feel the dream of "Thousand and one Night" with the whole magic of the Orient, but at the same time stands with both feet on the floor.

In the upbeat of the olfactory sensation stand delicate rose notes and the lovely aroma of young fruits. In the heart-note you can find the scents of the precious essences of the oudbaumer and the base note consists of Rose Aoud with white chocolate, a hint of ambergris in combination with delicate vanilla and a touch of Gaiäc wood."

15th September, 2008.