Aoud Oeillet D'Inde (2008)
by Montale

It’s a very pleasant carnation fragrance but I fail to get much oud out of it. However, those who found Guerlain's Metallica / Metalys in need of a stronger carnation note should try this.

Even though Montale’s description claims that it’s spicy rather than floral, I still found it a tad too feminine.

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[Original submission date: 11 April 2008]

On me, the carnation/clove note was the perfect fulcrum for everything else to rest on, and stayed around for the drydown in subtlest but still intoxicationg way. I agree not heavy on the aoud - but that was ok as everything else worked so perfectly together. Generally there are just too many notes (not to sound like the Emperor in Amadeus, but...) in the Montale line, but not here. Everything played off everything else in harmony.

The characteristic Montale oudh-rose accord is here from the start, but it’s sweeter and far less strident in expression than in Black Aoud, Attar, or Royal Aoud. In just minutes a spicy, yet soft and rounded carnation/clove accord wells up from amidst the rose and oudh, which are soon revealed to be supporting players, rather than the main act. What they season is a heart of carnation, soft white flowers, sandalwood, and saffron over a sweet, mild vanilla base. It’s all actually quite mellow and gentle – so much so that it flirts with being bland. Though the saffron lends the composition some punch, this is a surprisingly demure scent compared with others in its line; of those I’ve worn, only White Aoud is so polite in demeanor.

As it evolves, Aoud Oeillet d’Inde reveals itself as more of a sweet floral than an oudh-centered fragrance. In fact, I wonder that Pierre Montale included it among his oudhs at all. It’s a pleasant enough scent, but I’ve come to expect more power and exoticism from this line, and Aoud Oeillet d’Inde winds up disappointing me.