Thumbs up - because it is not significantly worse than others. Currently the cost of ownership is with all due respect impossible.
To my laymans nose the perfumer has discovered the aroma chemical 'helional'. By accident I have a vial of that at my home. It is described as being new mown hay, ozone, fresh, melon, herbaceous, watery, floral. Luca Turin smells a sucked silverspoon.
In short this chemical has a very special, wide spread odorous signature, centered somehow to the smell of early summer in Western Europe.
I agree with Alfarom, that there is a vibe similar to a component in Byredo M/Mink.And I'm pretty sure this is the helional. Once I used it in a too high dose while experimenting and developed a nausea against it.
Helional is very tenacious, and so Skarbs backbone of stands still. All the various aspects of the chemical are to my taste masterfully blended with other, maybe even natural ingredients. There is incense, chamomille, herbs and all. Only that - by these ingredients - different aspects of the helional are once covered, others emphazised depending on the alterations in relative concentrations with time (because the chemicals evaporate slowly with different rates). I really do get the picture of a fragrance which is described as being an analogue to a star to replace of the classic top to base shift.
I'm afraid this sounds more revolutionary than it is. Many perfumes are centered on sole aroma chemicals these days. At least to me the technical quality of Skarb seems to be outstanding, but not necessary stellar (pun intended).
The overall 'feel' of this scent reminds me of Polish gherkins. In Poland these are related to familarity, 'home' if not to rephrase the ad copy of H&G. The taste of this kind of pickles is dairy sour from lactonic fermentation, herbaceous from dill and bay leaves, woody from mostard seed, watery and melon-y from the cucumber itself. I think, if the abstraction the ad copy speaks of, to create a scent true to a certain feeling, true to a mans emotion, the reminder to mothers ghurkins is a tremendous joke.
thumbs up for technical skill, same for the idea, but two caveats:
- the helional gets more and more naked while the fragrance dries down, rendering it pretty much one dimensional after several hours or so
- the price is not justified
I stopped caring about marketing strategies when it comes to fragrance. I've heard Skarb is supposed to be a composition about melancholy and tears and I honestly couldn't care less. Skarb is quite good.
Skarb strikes a an edulcorated and more wearable (sort of prototype) version of Byredo's M/Mink which in this case is good news for me. A strong and extremely bitter/dry incense note joined by woods and a remarkable herbaceous presence (myrtle/hay) that adds some pungency. Chamomille provides a slight dose of sweetness to balance the general harshness while hints of aquatic notes refine this composition with an odd, but pleasant, touch. Overall I'd rank Skarb as a slightly weird woody/incense composition that is surely far from being an easy wear or a masterpiece but, at the same time, it isn't as scary or disgusting as they want us to believe.
On a once-in-a-while rotational roster.
I don't write reviews much, but I felt the need to write something on this one.
I too, do not think skarb deserves getting of on the wrong foot. Somewhat shrill bitters like lovage and fennel do not find their way into fragrances much, and I like that sort. It is a bittersweet fragrance to my nose, heavier on the bitter side. The sweetness is not of the vanilla/syrup/cotton candy type.
Odysseusm's review is freakishly close to my opinion about the fragrance. I too like it. I also like the nose-singeing opening. So fresh it burns.
For various reasons, it reminds me of papyrus de ciane and tirrenico.
Notes from H&G site: lovage, absinth, Roman chamomile, barley extract, frankincense, myrrh, musk
This is a a green, hay-like scent. It is dusky, dry, cool, with notes of chamomile and mint. There is a bit of toasted grain from the barley. I don't find anything weird or unpleasant here. A small amount of conifer from the frankincense. Pleasant in the middle section. Gets a little bit sweet in the dry-down, but not problematic or heavy.
Perhaps not outstanding but worth checking out for green fans.
--- First review below:
I see that this scent has generated some quite negative reviews. I like it, and I’ll explain why. First, I like green scents and for me this definitely has lots of green notes. Second, I have a quirky affection for medicinal scents, and this one (by design) has notes of a medicinal sort. Third, despite some traces of sweetness I don’t really find this to be a sweet scent – it is not heavy or ‘thick’. And fourth, the dry-down seems really attractive and satisfying to me.
Some of the controversy may be due to the ingredients. These are distinctive and may not be everybody’s cup of tea. But in my opinion the scent presents the notes faithfully and well. If some people don’t like the scent then it may simply be that these particular notes don’t suit the person. The same could be said of vanilla to my taste – I can’t stand the stuff.
The barley extract and chamomile probably are responsible for the somewhat sweet, hay-mint note. The absinthe (wormwood) contributes a bitter, powerfully pungent and herbaceous note which is medicinal. The myrtle has its typical spicy-peppery green note. Researching lovage, I see that it is like a combination of celery leaf, angelica and oakmoss. Those notes are exactly what I find here. The myrrh is very soft and contributes a somewhat soapy aspect.
Some have complained that the scent is linear – that it is all up-front and does not develop. I don’t find that to be the case. I see a subtle development, from a rather substantial dusky-green scent to one of a gentle, mossy sort. I would say this is a scent for green lovers primarily. Others may find it a bit unusual – I like it a lot.
04th July, 2011 (last edited: 15th November, 2014)
I never review anything. I have a couple of hundred samples, that's about it. This is not a review, it's a public service announcement. This Skarb stuff is, hands down, the most repugnant concoction I have ever come across. It astonishes me that this could have been produced at all. Notwithstanding the thoughtful and painfully judicious reviews by the esteemed foetidus (I once had cashews with that) and off-scenter, I'll just cut to the chase and warn people to bring their gas-mask to this one. Ouch. Nuff said!