hb01
by Biehl Parfumkunstwerke

“The power of elegance. Almost magical because you know exactly what you are doing...” (Biehl Parfumkunstwerke website)

Although this one was created by Henning Biehl (the father of the founder of Biehl Parfumkunstwerke) this is the offering that I care for the least. I find this one clinically and monumentally dull, and too transparent for my liking.

At least there’s another fragrance to keep LesNez’s L'Antimatiere company…

[Original submission date: 05 July 2008]

hb01 opens with gorgeous floral accords, but is hindered by something a bit sour and "day old" in the middle and base notes, which must be cumin because sometimes I think it smells like leftover Mexican food. The dry down morphs the fragrance into something that smells like a men's fragrance...but still with that persistent sour note.

Too "perfumey". A fake floral gardenia and a little sweet. Just really, really banal and trite and a failed attempt and making a nice floral.

Remember that inexpensive super-pungent 80's fragrance, "Jungle Gardenia"? Well, one of the best niche perfume lines have produced a reinterpretation. I know that gardenia is not one of the listed notes but to my nose, biehl's hb01 is a dead-ringer for it. One sniff and I guarantee you"ll be transported back to the days of big hair, shoulder pads and lots of makeup. Hb 01 is a big jolt of gardenia with a tiny bit of spice (cumin, maybe?) in the top note. The middle/base notes are basically tuberose and other white flowers which turns hb 01 into a close cousin of Giorgio (loud, vulgar, obvious floral).

As gardenia scents go, I much prefer Chanel Gardenia (understated stylish gardenia) and Monyette Paris (luscious, tropical gardenia) to hb 01. Or, if you just want a truly beautiful elegant floral perfume, I'd highly recommend biehl's mb 01 over this.

Here are the notes, courtesy of The Perfumed Court: top: orange blossom, blackcurrant, peach, gardenia, green leaves, bergamot, Middle: rose, jasmine, lily of the valley, iris, tuberose, ylang ylang, Base: vanilla, cedar, sandalwood, musk.