mb01
by Biehl Parfumkunstwerke

“Cool eroticism. White, no trace of innocence.” (Biehl Parfumkunstwerke website)

Out of the three Mark Buxton creations, this one is my favourite. However, there’s an accord in the composition I find somewhat unsettling (that I simply can’t put my finger on). It’s more alluring than sexy but juxtaposed with a prevailing sense of distance and coldness – it’s like encountering the woman of your dreams only to realise that she’s an aloof and impenetrable ice queen.

It’s probably one of the most intriguing offerings from this house, so far.

[Original submission date: 05 July 2008]

Biehl's MB 01 is hands down one of the most beautiful floral perfumes I have ever smelled. It has Mark Buxton's signture light touch and is smell-able only if you get close to the skin which I think makes it a very alluring fragrance. MB 01 is so well blended that it is hard to isolate a particular floral note but I can detect a generous helping of white musk which becomes the dominant note in the drydown, and softens and enhances the fragrance. It should also be said that MB 01 is a "warm" floral in the style of Serge Lutens "Un Lys", but in contrast to a "cold" (but equally beautiful) floral such as Frederic Malle's Lys Mediterranee.

Here are the notes, courtesy of The Perfumed Court: jasmine, tuberose, champaca, gardenia, ambergris, musk and sandalwood.