Sycomore (new) (2008)
by Chanel

A smoky-yet-fresh vetiver, perfect for the guy aiming for the odor of "distinguished gentleman," or "I'm rich, or at least smell like I should be," understatement. If this pops your cork, I'd recommend the large bottle, because although it's long-lasting, it seems to improve if you really pile it on. It seems to have a "pre-dried down" effect, not so much that it is linear, but reaches that comfortable melded-to-skin state quite quickly. It is seamless, quality, perhaps boring, with no surprises or rough edges. It would work equally as well for a woman aiming to avoid the bubblegum confections that pass as women's perfumes these days. Would be a safe gift for a guy who works in a conservative setting. The antithesis of Drakkar Noir.

23rd January, 2012.

Oh my, this is a very, very fine scent.
If you have any interest at all in vetiver, then you must try this.
The scent starts with beautiful wood notes, along with the haunting traces of smoke from a distant fire. The combination is irresistible and lovely. At this point, the scent reminds me of Cartier's Declaration -- grassy, woody, but arguably leaner and drier which suits me. Those grassy woody notes are from the vetiver, perhaps in combination with cypress. Any scent with a good cypress note gets my commendation and this has that. I love the style: austere, intriguing, introspective yet at the same time warm and attractive. Not at all sweet or heavy, everything is handled with a light but sure touch. The juniper and cypress give a resinous or coniferous brightness from time to time. The scent settles into a very satisfying vetiver: lean and bright, and it wears well.

13rd January, 2012.

Sycomore by Chanel - Upon application, one is treated to a stimulating wave of hesperidic notes, with their inherent tangerine, orange, bergamot and lemon flavors; aldehydes heigthen their sparkliness. Riding the crest of this citrus swell, haitian vetiver imparts its green and smoky facets. A faint anise bobs about. Carried to the waiting middle, fruity and shyly spicy pink pepper showers the airy and bitter vetiver, and is married with the fresh and clean woodiness of cypress, while a hint of sensual jasmine and haunting frankincense waft about. Transitioning to the welcoming base, creamy sandlewood, dry cedar and pine needle-like juniper encase the rooty vetiver, as delicate ylang-ylang lightly mists the lush and woodsy melange adding a trace of powder, and orris masterfully impregnates the concoction with its wet, earthy and slight violet-like facets. With a feebly sour and warm musk flickering, and a sweet and balsamic styrax adding a kiss of vanilla, an exquisite drydown ensues. This elegant composition befits a gentleman. A tasteful and refined, all-season fragrance, it has average projection and good longevity.

27th December, 2011.

I have trouble with fragrances with prominent leather notes. One I don't really like to smell leather on myself. And two when I detect a leather note in a fragrance it distracts me from appreciating any other note that might be in there. Oftentimes all I can smell is leather, the other notes merely modulating the leather note to some (to my nose) insignificant degree. A notable exception to my leather phobia is Chanel Sycomore which upon sampling it always calls to my mind words and phrases like "refined", "elegant", "finely crafted" and "smells expensive." This leather scent is bright and evocative. The opening is beautifully smokey and though the smoke lessens as Sycomore dries down it never goes away completely. Like Annick Goutal Vetiver this is a leathery scent I prefer to smell on a woman than on myself. Sycomore is the more feminine fragrance and is marketed as such. AG Vetiver sometimes strikes me as a little sausage-y. If I were ever to wear a leather scent Sycomore would be it.

17th December, 2011.

Sycomore is stunning! It is not simply a scent. I believe it creates a symbiotic chemical bond with the neurons in the pleasure center of the brain.

The longevity is incredible. I can smell it after showering. Luckily I've experienced zero olfactory fatigue with this fragrance. Next time I'm springing for the 6.8 oz. bottle.

10th December, 2011.

Sycomore has forced me to rethink my natural aversion to vetiver. I don't mind vetiver as a fixative, but not as the dominant note in a fragrance. The earthy, vegetal nature of vetiver is attractive in the same way that the smell of freshly plowed earth is, almost a spiritual olfactory experience that sustains us, and thereby, attracts us. That being said, I have no desire to rub top soil on my wrist and walk around all day. No worries with Sycomore. Sycomore is a silky smooth fragrance with a citrusy, smokey, floral (aldehydes) opening that blends quickly with the vetiver note that IS Sycomore. Sycomore develops into an inky, woody, tobacco fragrance with the vetiver note leading the team on to victory. Sycomore has excellent longevity and is not a feminine fragrance, but rather a unisex scent with a strong masculine lean. Definitely one of the best vetiver fragrances available. Nice work Polge and Sheldrake, you've created a champion.

6th December, 2011.