"Great conjurations" (I would say) for this really "important" vetiver which possesses anyway an its own specific "salty" modern and anarch individuality full of dynamic mystery, adventure, noncomformity and urban/chic "metropolitan arabesque". A huge masterwork of refinement and arabian exoticism by the talented nose Dominique Dubrana (for our full enjoyment) and probably my new AbdesSalaam Attar Profumo's absolute favorite. At its "complicated" beginning it seems to be dealing with a sort of Montale Black Aoud and also in part Etro Vetiver (partially Mitsouko, Montale Aromatic Lime and Etro Patchouly) in their first step of the "evolution trip", being indeed the aroma supremely "holy", commanding, earthy, spicy, hesperidic, slightly incensey, mossy, classic, slightly stuffy, vegetal and almost medicinal. The impact is "strong" for sure, I mean since the aroma seems to be "too much elevated" and royal/exotic before to be able morphing towards something more approachable, dynamic and modern. I detect rooty vetiver, prickly spices (cloves, ginger, nutmeg, pepper), mild spices (cinnamon) and patchouli for sure surrounded by something highly aromatic, mossy, resinous and slightly waxy conjuring me in part the Aromatics Elixir's mystical chypre "complicacy" (with vague vintage chypre evocations a la V&A First). The sea patterns (seaweed, exotic vetiver and ozonic molecules) jump anyway soon on the stage providing a sort of lighter salty-fluidy-windy secret background a la Sel de Vetiver by The Different Company still coexisting with a marvellous spicy/liturgic and woody basic mélange but significantly breaking their wall of "cultural" (holy and canonic) tradition by a fist of piratic rebellion and unconditioning sense of freedom (yes like the clipper sails capturning the wind energy). Despite the salty/ozonic weird "hidden" spark I would say that the name "Seawood-Legno di Nave" is anyway slightly misleading since the general aroma tends to hold on a basic "important", spiritual, almost massive (and highly textured) articulation full of darkness, woodsiness and spiciness. I detect indeed also an ambience of silence and enigma wearing this fragrance over skin since you feel in any case to wear something otherworldly, forbidding, mystic, huge as an ascetical shelter of the deep Russian steppe. In the final part of the trip the rootiness consistently recedes and the perfume evolves towards something extremely refined (unisex, leaning over the masculine side), smoother but highly changeful, subtle, swirling and sophisticated by nuances of woods, salty ozone, musks, spices and resins. Stunning.
17th May, 2014 (last edited: 25th November, 2014)
This "gift" was a promo bottle during a website offer that helped introduce me to two wonderful scents that I might have otherwise not chosen by notes alone (Legno di Nave and Balssamo della Mecca). Both are now house favorites from VdP.
This is a voyager's fragrance, and alongside another Italian blend - Regio (from Xerjoff's Casamorati line) - effectively evokes salty, almost soured air carrying the polar-opposite sweet essences of spice blends and sun-toasted woods. Where regio plays with citrus, this is greener and more resinous. It smells so incredibly natural (Duh... it's a natural perfume, but what I mean by this is that many of the notes in eastern-leaning perfumery are so new to me that I have trouble placing them. In the case of Sea Wood / Lengo di Nave, I am instantly transported to an old wood-hulled sailboat leaving the brackish waters of my upbringing and heading out into the open sea.
There is no sparkle here (the result of synthetics, I assume, in other blends). But unlike other more meditative scents from Abdes Salaam, this is one that deserves to have more sillage and projection. I tried adding a drop o molook attar (for the ambergris) to a 2mls SeaWood to keep the nautical theme and boost the staying power, but the single drop overpowered the beauty of the blend and the introduced "sparkle" along with the oud ruined the mix. So now I long to experience this as hirch_duckfinder does - as oil. Love this but would appreciate more of the great things happening in this living blend.
This doesn't smell like the sea per se, but more like an old spice-drenched and mossy bucket of water and sea weed from the sea. As Hirch put it, this is life-soup. I don't particularly ever want to wear it, but I love to sniff the vial, as it transports me to a mossy dock of decaying planks of wood, sea weed, spices and other organic matter from the sea. Very unique and quite frankly almost off-putting and ugly, but it still manages to come off smooth due to Profumo's blending skills. Supposedly the newer batches of Sea Wood no longer have ambergris in them, but I doubt it will make much of a difference as this stuff already feels so alive.
This is a fantastic and complex ambergris-centric fragrance. Of course, I'm biased. If a perfumer does even a remotely competent job with the note, I'm hooked. Such is the case and more with Legno di Nave ("Ship Wood"). I have to admit, though, that the powerful, spicy, clove-dominated scent (actually kinda "Kouros"-y) from the sample vial was enough to make me test a slew of others before I finally succumbed to curiosity, and I'm glad I did.
As I said, the top notes were (to my nose, at least) dominated by clove, although I could make out the ambergris (which is substantial throughout the development) and a slight vetiver. On my skin, the clove slightly recedes in less than an hour or so; at this point, the fragrance is immensely more enjoyable. The spices here are not overdone, not too clove-y. The cinammon becomes a little more recognizable, and a deep, dark resinous wood scent (almost sap-like - more on that later) emerges. And, of course, ever-present and interconnecting is the ambergris, which is very well-represented here. This is the scent's best stage.
As if this is not enough, the aforementioned resinous note develops in a such a way that it dominates and screams loudly at hour 5 or so (yes, that late in the game). It was at about this time that I began to question my own opinion of this great beast! Gladly, after a little while, the resinous note tired of its screaming, and what I was left with for the next 4 hours (and counting!) was a softer (though still pronounced) spicy ambergris scent with an almost balsamic twang.
I consider this to be very closely related to CSP's Eau Grise, a scent that I treasure above almost all others, even though I do not own it and sadly cannot find it due to its having been discontinued. Although I like Eau Grise a little better - mainly because it omits the spice and tree sap notes that can make this a little overbearing, but only at times - I could definitely see myself using this instead.
I strongly recommend this fragrance.
This is a review of the pure perfume oil.
A deep, complex woody fragrance with vetiver, spices and sandalwood all infused with the fascinating and slightly bizzare sweet/savoury multi faceted scent of ambergris. It captures the idea of aged wood from a ship perfectly, spices from the cargo absorbed in small quantity but deeply inside the timbers and the distinct smell of the sea in the amber. This is the smell of the sea as life-soup not the platonic ideal of oceanic scents provided by modern synthetics.
It is dark and mid-base note dominated and somewhat serious in its outlook.
The quality of the ingredients and strength of the composition shines through. There is a focus and coherence in this which is very compelling; it has deep roots and is born of conviction.