The opening does indeed carry a leather note upfront on my skin: a soft, fresh bright leather with only the slightest transient hint of tannin harshness - softness is its main characteristic. In the drydown a somewhat perfunctory bergamot injects whiffs of brightness before a pleasant sweetish gently honeyed cinnamon aligns with a rather generic rose, before the drydown descends into a nonspecific woodsy base; I can't find a convincing birch note with a microscope here.
The sillage is moderate, the projection good and the longevity an excellent ten hours.
Does the nice leather entry with the subsequent mediocrity warrant a positive score - just a borderline yes; the good performance and the pleasant honeyed cinnamon tilt it over the edge by the skin of its teeth - for the leather fragrance aficionado. 3/5
This is interesting, but ultimately didn't win me over. In terms of smell, it would be hard for me to describe it better than previous reviews, so I'll just say that this is a complicated mix that starts off with violets and fennel, passes through a violet leaf and iris stage, before ending up at mentholated iris and vetiver.
It's complicated and, at face value, a well crafted perfume, but it just hasn't made me fall in love. For one, it has a carefully designed coolness, an icy green quality that engulfs the scent. This iced feeling effectively shaves off the rough edginess I'd expect from a leather scent. As a result, it's got an insistent aloofness which is intellectually interesting, but ultimately not endearing to me. Is it possible for a perfume to be disdainful? Perhaps this is a leather scent for people who don't like leathers, or a cool violet leaf scent for people who don't like that sort of thing, but whatever it is, I like it more in theory than in practice.
Nicely done! This leather is for folks who don't want the strong harsh leather. I might end up getting a decant of this. The supporting cast of notes make this an interesting fragrance. The rose and vetiver notes really makes this one that you may want to get your hands on. I believe this leather one can be worn in warm weather because of the vetiver. This is coming from someone who is not the biggest fan of leather fragrance. 8/10
I've fallen hard for this, all the more so because I didn't get it the first time I smelled it, on card. Then I got a sample when I bought Iris de Nuit and it's gorgeous. It starts off with a subtle leather, hay and flowers, never crude or sweet. It's natural enough to wear at home and sophisticated enough for a conservative office. The really clever trick is the soapy note which appears deep into the drydown; not a crude aldehydic soap (and never just soap) but an expensive and beautiful leather one. So the scent gets progressively fresher and cleaner on your arm as the office day wears on. Definitely worth a bottle.
05th October, 2015 (last edited: 15th October, 2015)
leather but not raunchy dark stuff, more a light feminine leather with bright florals, low sillage, good duration... for me a full bottle disappointment!