Cuir Pleine Fleur (2008)
by Heeley

Heeley Cuir Pleine Fleur

The 2007 release from James Heeley's eponymous fragrance line, Cuir Pleine Fleur, is often seen renamed as Fine Leather on some english speaking sources. When I looked up the real translation of the words it strictly translates to "leather full flower". While fine leather captures one aspect of this fragrance it is the strict translation that really tells the full story as the presence of a floral accord is what makes this leather scent stand out from others. The top of Cuir Pleine Fleur is all fleur as violet and mimosa bring this scent to life. Violet is one of my more favorite floral accords and the violet here is one of the better vioilet accords I've come across. It is tricky working with violet as too much and it becomes sharp and bitter. Here the mimosa rounds off those sharp edges with a dollop of sweet floral and helps accentuate the softer side of violet. The heart is where the leather shows up along with a deep slug of birch. This is a full-throated leather and oddly appropriate in combination with the violet at the top. There is a moment in the development where the violet is waning and the leather is in its ascendancy that I have a short period of unusual beauty as the floral and leather aspects are sublimely balanced. The base is a smoky vetiver which supports the continued presence of the birch and leather and give a little bite to the drydown. Cuir Pleine Fleur has above average longevity and moderate sillage, on me. Each Heeley I try has found a way to make me appreciate a note I think I know well in a new way. This is true in the case of Cuir Pleine Fleur not only for the central leather note but also for the violet and in both cases the results are eye-opening.

Lets face it, nobody wants their skin to smell of leather. Tell me of someone who does and I'll show you a liar. What people really want is a fragrance that evokes pleasant memories associated with the use of leather. For example, the smell of leather equipment as you gear up for a round of polo with your fraternity brothers, or perhaps the feel of luxury as you recline comfortably on a chaise lounge of velvety pale leather. And that's what Heeley's CUIR PLEINE FLEUR is to me - a scent reminiscent of luxurious, fine leather with floral notes of mimosa, hawthorn blossom and violet leaf bringing a soft powdery and somewhat sensual 'Yin' into harmony with the harsher, more masculine 'Yang' as represented by the triumvirate of vetiver, birch and castoreum. In one word? FABULOUS.

I have a sweater with a fur collar and whenever I put some Cuir Pleine Fleur on, I was wearing that sweater with the fake fur collar. They went well together. This grew on me and when the sample was used up, I decided I could possible own a bottle someday!
I smelled a lot of birch and some leather but my nose isn't good enough to detect anything else in it.

I absolutely love Cuir Pleine Fleur - this is the smell of luxury to me. The leather is a top quality, super soft leather - and the floral and green notes are fresh and in perfect balance with the leather. I never smelled mimosa this good, it's absolutely wonderful. I don't think I will ever get tired of this fragrance.

This is not a great leather scent as advertised. It's mainly composed of some green and floral cascade---with some light mint and vegetable like tones....but the leather notes aren't very nice----it's sort of a light, meaty leather. There's nothing really very interesting about this...and it has this strange sort of old-vegetable smell which i just can't get rid of...maybe even fertilizer-like. There are much better scents out there for leather than this------which is a FAIL.

"Cuir pleine fleur" is the French term for the highest quality leather. This scent is really quite a good leather, using birch and suede notes carry the leather impression, and supplementing and supporting them with rather green-tinged florals (violet and mimosa). Vetiver in the base gives this a good anchor for longevity and a decent sillage. It is really rather captivating, recalling somewhat such famous and classic suede-leather scents as Tabac Blond and Cabochard. A definite keeper!