Perfume Directory

Invasion Barbare / SB (2006)
by MDCI

Advertisement

Invasion Barbare / SB information

Year of Launch2006
GenderMasculine
AvailabilityIn Production
Average Rating
(based on 287 votes)

People and companies

HouseMDCI
PerfumerStéphanie Bakouche

About Invasion Barbare / SB

Invasion Barbare / SB is a masculine fragrance by MDCI. The scent was launched in 2006 and the fragrance was created by perfumer Stéphanie Bakouche

Invasion Barbare / SB fragrance notes

Reviews of Invasion Barbare / SB

Marchal Design & Créations Indépendantes - or Parfums MDCI - is another perfume brand born of the 21st century "prestige brand boom", which is unofficially the period from roughly the year 2000 onward where growing wealth inequality in Western society has caused an increasing desire among the swelling upper classes to spend their money more conspicuously on luxury, like they once did in the "Gilded Age" just prior to the original London and New York stock market crashes of 1929. With demand higher than ever for "cut above" brands that dwarf even long-established couture houses in exorbitance, brands like MDCI have replaced once-premium designer fragrances as top of the food chain, while they inadvertently slide downmarket due to inflation, rising ingredient costs, plus their perception as aspirational accessories placed at "entry-level" to a couture house's larger catalog of wares, making them sit status-wise where perfumes by the large cosmetic companies such as Coty once sat. The brainchild of Claude Marchal was formed to be a "perfumes as art" concept like so many others in this price tier, including Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle, and was later absorbed into the umbrella of Jovoy Paris in the same manner that Frédéric Malle was absorbed into The Estée Lauder Companies Inc. Originally, the house was launched with 5 perfumes each bearing the initials of their perfumer as their name, with Francis Kurkdijan having FK1, FK2, and FK3 for the feminine selections, and Pierre Bourdon making PB for the house alongside Stéphanie Bakouche making SB for the masculine selections all in 2006. Patricia de Nicholai also created PdN for the house in 2009. Invasion Barbare is really just a renamed SB, since MDCI switched to actual perfume names some time after 2010, and Invasion Barbare represents a classic barbershop fougère style if the play on words which represents its post-2010 name didn't give that away. Hype from the "Broletariat" of upper-middle class overachievers hooked on YouTube fragrance reviewers and dissatisfied with the "plebian" nature of designer juices have led many to wander MDCI's way looking to "level up their game" with a bottle of Invasion Barbare, and while the stuff is genuinely nice, it is truly nothing special since barbershop fougères don't cost a ton to make and have been done to death.

The opening of Invasion Barbare is a bit of the old and a bit of the new, with tried-but-true bergamot merging with sharp aldehydes and a slightly softer grapefruit note that tends to start off many things calling themselves fougères in the 21st century. Violet leaf also finds its way into the equation early on, but it's nothing on the level of Burberry Touch for Men (2000) or even Creed Green Irish Tweed (1985), yet it adds that dandy flair iris, rose, or carnation would otherwise add in older examples of the genre. Thyme, cardamom, and ginger all add a bit of earthy and nutty spice which also comes across a bit dusty to my nose, until the lavender shows up to complete a traditional fougère accord even if it takes a bit of a backseat to that violet. The overall feeling of the scent is rather sharp and acidic thanks to the aldehydes, which usually don't find their way into these kind of fougères, but perhaps keep this from becoming too vanillic and nondescript like a classic bottle of Caron Pour Un Homme (1934) or Canoe (1936). The spice and lavender have it feeling a bit more familiar but the rather opaque violet leaf in the top of Invasion Barbare keeps its flamboyant thumb down on most of the otherwise conservative barbershop action of the heart. Base notes for Invasion Barbare are rather par for the course with patchouli, vanilla, cedar, musk, and just a tiny sliver of oakmoss to "keep it real" but not real enough to satisfy lovers of vintage masculine barbershops previously loaded down with it. I get mostly a dry cedar out of this base next to a powdery vanilla and musk, so if there is patchouli here, it must be that chemical "white patchouli" which just adds thickness without flavor, similar to having a thin line of mayonnaise on a sandwich. The aldehydes and violet are the only things really separating Invasion Barbare from its lower-priced peers, and I see nothing about that which is particularly premium nor exciting. Wear time is over 10 hours and projection is not monstrous thanks to the typical tight sillage of an eau de parfum concentration, but Invasion Barbare is very noticeable to the wearer and a fairly pleasant experience. I'd make this an office fragrance if I was going to wear it regularly, or one for formal occasions if it was relegated to special use only, which for the price it sells is the likely fate of most bottles out there.

This one is very much for the mature crowd, making me scratch my head even more at all the young go-getters blowing up forums about this stuff, since none of them would be caught dead wearing the fragrances that do what Invasion Barbare does but better, because they're all either too old or too "cheap" in their eyes. If you're a guy into fragrances for "The Game", then I probably can't dissuade you from thinking this juice is pure liquid greatness, but I still strongly urge a sampling first. For somebody morbidly curious about what such a ubiquitous category as the barbershop fougère can smell like in the realms of prestige luxury perfume, Invasion Barbare is an interesting excursion if you can stomach the price point. If you sample Invasion Barbare, then decide it isn't worth the cash but wish to stay within the realms of niche, you might want to check out Penhaligon's Sartorial (2010) or Replica At the Barber's by Martin Margiela (2014), which do similar things with fougère accords and sharp openings, switching out the dry aldehydic anise tone Invasion Barbare carries for a metallic or peppery one respectively. For me personally, the original Houbigant Fougère Royale (1882) that started it all is still the one to beat for somebody wanting this style all dressed up in "hoity-toity" fashion, but if you're of the "hoi polloi" as I am, then I'd stick to good old Fabergé Brut (1964) or Avon Wild Country (1967). Hell, even Yves Saint Laurent Jazz (1988) or Pasha de Cartier (1992) will give you a similar, albeit richer version of same desired effect as Invasion Barbare, but for much less coin. However, style or performance at a good value isn't the reason perfume brands like this exist, is it? I give Invasion Barbare a thumbs up for being a solid and slightly novel take on "dad's cologne", but otherwise its dime store style with a deluxe price tag prevents my recommendation, since at least other prestige brands like Creed strive to have mostly unique perfumes. As a bit of an aside, MDCI love to create ridiculously fancy packaging to go with their perfumes, so outside the usual Greco-Roman busts that adorn their bottles, MDCI have also released Invasion Barbare in Middle-Eastern "Silk Road" editions and a host of coffret sets since they pitch their lineup at wealthy collectors.
07th February, 2019
It has a classic vibe, it is manly and serious. The kind of perfume to be worn with a suit at an upscale event. What I get the most is the lavender with cardamom and violet leaf sweetened by vanilla. Well into the base, when the musk substitutes the lavender, it becomes more pleasant for me. I am not a lavender fan but I understand it's quality.
13th August, 2018
Dear oh dear.....

What a let down. The mighty IB. Crazy price tag but apparently worth it!! I think not!

Honestly.....It's a bland and boring middle of the road fragrance dressed up in a fancy bottle and then charged the earth. The phrase "Fur coat and no knickers" spring to mind. Completely over priced and overrated in my humble opinion.
12th May, 2018
What a smoothie! The woody-spicy cliché mates with the lavender-heavy barbershop fougère and – wonder of wonders – no-one’s honour is lost. When playing to such broad audiences with thousands of perfumes riffing on a similar mix of ingredients, it is largely the finish of the thing rather than any claim to originality that matters. So when Invasion Barbare steps out the door with every hair in place and each fleck dusted off its clothes, it means the care that has gone into polishing it is exemplary. This thing is the baby’s (hygienic) bottie.
The cool, sweetly-cooing, sprinkled with talc, lavender fougère half (shades of Rive Gauche) is matched seamlessly with oriental warmth – ginger, that gives a spice accent but with zest, and woods. The other harmonizing notes – a subtle citric fringe, soapy cardamom and gently bracing violet greens – also contribute to the immaculate maquillage.
While I admire the skill, I find the creature Invasion Barbare summons to my mind is boardroom man, a being with whom I share no affinity. I also find the lavender a touch too sweet for my taste – I often do. And the projection is moderate. This will sound like perfection to many – however, it makes me long for a touch of recklessness.
13th January, 2018
Man...I love this one...perhaps even more than Le Barbier De Tangier! There is a moment in the mid opening where the cardamon might be a bit too hot, but it's fleeting, and the overall wear is special in my opinion. This is beautifully blended, and I must have some! Such a wonderful fougere that unfortunately drifts away long before I want it to. It hangs in there as a skin scent, but I wish it had a bit more sillage. This is a 9.9 out of 10 for me. Huge love for Invasion Barbare!
24th December, 2017
Understated, not that interesting, clean tones, would keep it if I owned it.
09th May, 2017

Add your review of Invasion Barbare / SB

You need to be logged in to add a review

Shop for Invasion Barbare / SB products online

Shop for Invasion Barbare / SB at online perfumeries

Search for on eBay

MDCI Invasion Barbare coffret

$200.00
End Date: Friday Mar-1-2019 20:57:13 PST
Buy It Now for only: $200.00
Buy It Now | Add to watch list


DUA Fragrances - INVASION OF THE BARBERS (MDCI Barbare) - Decant SAMPLE Atomizer

$9.99
End Date: Saturday Mar-2-2019 20:31:51 PST
Buy It Now for only: $9.99
Buy It Now | Add to watch list


DUA Fragrances - INVASION OF THE BARBERS (MDCI Barbare) - Decant SAMPLE Atomizer

$9.99
End Date: Saturday Mar-2-2019 20:31:51 PST
Buy It Now for only: $9.99
Buy It Now | Add to watch list


DUA Fragrances - INVASION OF THE BARBERS (MDCI Barbare) - Decant SAMPLE Atomizer

$13.99
End Date: Saturday Mar-2-2019 20:31:51 PST
Buy It Now for only: $13.99
Buy It Now | Add to watch list


Parfums MDCI Paris INVASION BARBARE SILK ROAD FLACONS EDP 100ml -One On ebay

$389.00
End Date: Sunday Mar-3-2019 12:59:57 PST
Buy It Now for only: $389.00
Buy It Now | Add to watch list


Parfums MDCI Paris INVASION BARBARE Eau De Parfum 50ml - RARE NICHE LUXURY

$174.00
End Date: Sunday Mar-3-2019 13:18:59 PST
Buy It Now for only: $174.00
Buy It Now | Add to watch list


2x * 2ml Parfums MDCI Paris INVASION BARBARE & CHYPRE PALATIN EDP Spray NICHE

$32.99
End Date: Tuesday Mar-5-2019 16:21:09 PST
Buy It Now for only: $32.99
Buy It Now | Add to watch list


Parfums MDCI Paris INVASION BARBARE Eau De Parfum 50ml Niche fragrance LUXURY

$159.99
End Date: Wednesday Mar-13-2019 17:05:21 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $159.99
Buy It Now | Add to watch list


MDCI Paris INVASION BARBARE Eau De Parfum Decanted SPRAY 1ML 2ML 5ML 10ML NICHE

$7.99
End Date: Monday Mar-18-2019 10:47:31 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $7.99
Buy It Now | Add to watch list


MDCI Paris INVASION BARBARE Eau De Parfum Decanted SPRAY 1ML 2ML 5ML 10ML NICHE

$34.99
End Date: Monday Mar-18-2019 10:47:31 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $34.99
Buy It Now | Add to watch list


MDCI Paris INVASION BARBARE Eau De Parfum Decanted SPRAY 1ML 2ML 5ML 10ML NICHE

$55.99
End Date: Monday Mar-18-2019 10:47:31 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $55.99
Buy It Now | Add to watch list


MDCI Paris INVASION BARBARE Eau De Parfum Decanted SPRAY 1ML 2ML 5ML 10ML NICHE

$7.99
End Date: Monday Mar-18-2019 10:47:31 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $7.99
Buy It Now | Add to watch list


Parfums MDCI Paris INVASION BARBARE Eau De Parfum 50ml - RARE NICHE NEW

$165.00
End Date: Tuesday Mar-19-2019 20:34:03 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $165.00
Buy It Now | Add to watch list


Invasion Barbare Sample

$16.99
End Date: Friday Mar-22-2019 23:14:21 PDT
Buy It Now for only: $16.99
Buy It Now | Add to watch list


Member images of Invasion Barbare / SB

There are no member images of Invasion Barbare / SB yet. Why not be the first?

You need to log in or register to upload images

Private Notes

You need to be logged in (or register here) to use Private Notes.

Advertisement

Advertisement