Nasomatto China White (2008)
by Nasomatto

Sort of floral woody and smoky -- China White is really lovely, but there was something nagging about it and it took me a time to identify that it is very similar to Corso di Como (go compare),so a neutral only.

Had the brand new 'Black Afghan' from Nasomatto shoved under my nose -- this is something else -- deep, dense, dark, eastern -- a must buy later.

There doesn’t seem to be any notes listed for this one but there is definitely an ashy note, which would lead me to conclude that lavender may be one of the main notes in the composition. Some have stated that it smells too feminine but I tend to disagree – it’s very much a unisex scent.

The interesting thing about White China is that it smells greyer than the name (or even the colour of the juice) implies. It also reminds me, somewhat, of Patou pour Homme Privé. Unfortunately, it’s hard for me to compare the two (for obvious reasons) but it’d be interesting if someone was able to make a side-by-side comparison and report their findings. Anyway, for now, I wouldn't conclude they're exactly the same but I can detect some obvious parallels – to jump to such conclusions would be foolish in itself.

China White is very much in the same category as Silver Musk – a composition with clean and slightly metallic accords. Once again, longevity is disappointing for a parfum extrait. I have yet to come across a Nasomatto that is worthy of its expensive price tag.

[Original submission date: 06 July 2008]

China White is probably built around violet, iris, white musk, a bit of patchouli and some other bit of light green floral. But whatever goes into the mystery formula, it is clearly dry woody violet along with white musk that creates the dry chalky floral base. It has been presumed that this Nasomatto is named for street grade herioin; but, when I first smelled it I immediately had associations with dry white china - bone china. White, dry and very minimal, the dry chalky floral nature of China White would also describe the famous white dinnerware created from bone ash and china clay in Stoke on Trent. I prefer my associations with bone china dinnerware because it also describes the feel of the fragrance perfectly. It is very similar to Narcisso Rodrigeuz for him but much lighter and subtler use of violet, iris, and white musk. Along with the violets, maybe iris, there might be a touch of honeysuckle or angelica to add a bit of green floral gentleness to the familiar dry violets and musk. Chalky and white, clean and unsoiled, a very nice fragrance - China White.

It reminds me quite a lot of my favourite from this line - Absinth - it has the same characteristic green/herbal/aromatic bitterness. China White doesn't have the spicy/woody warmth of Absinth though, it's a much cooler scent. Drier too, dusty dry the way cedar scents can sometimes be, though not particularly woody. Ashen, yes. It's sort of annoying and addictive all at once. I don't get any of the flowers others are mentioning, but I suppose violet (leaf) or iris (root) may contribute to its cold, and there's also a hint of a sickly-sweet note that reminds me of candy rather than flowers. I think there's vetiver root in there adding to the green sharpness, but it might be some other bitter herb as well. Could be good old oakmoss. China White is like a mix between some old-fashioned leathery chypre (Bandit, say) and some hyper-modern, metallic, synthetic, cold, sharp CdG creation. Oh, and it also reminds me of an über-masculine, dry, loud, woody/herbal concoction like Yatagan.

Gualtieri refuses to publish pyramids or discuss the notes that constitute his perfumes; still, they are, for the most part, remarkable for their tenacity and sillage. I suppose that's why people are content to pay his prices without knowing what's in them. I find China White to be oddly floral, powdery, and spicy while keeping a somewhat chemical or medicinal air about it. It's both mysterious and straightforward; by this, I mean it seems quite determined and forthright, yet it is difficult to wrap one's mind around, hard to parse. The upshot is, I like it. Next to Duro, I find it the best of the line so far.

Nasamotto doesn't want their notes disclosed on their scents and with good reason. My experience with this is a lovely powdery violet/green incense that's great for wearing to bed. Soothing and calming for me. I like.