Weirdly enough, the note I detect more clearly and boldly in the first minutes is not listed – cedar: a woody, dry, aromatic strong smell of cedar. Plus oak (wood), a massive dose of resins and benzoin with its camphoraceous chypre allure, an equally massive portion of cumin, a soft and almost creamy note (ylang?), aldehydes, vanilla and perhaps patchouli on the base. Must admit that although I am not the biggest fan of Frapin out there, their range is quite unusual and they style is – positively – unique, somehow playful, exotic, often looking for less-common structures and compositions. Here we have basically a super spicy, but warm and aromatic Oriental scent, stuffed with resins, antique woods, like a journey in a humid, colourful, mystical forest in the Far East. As minutes pass it also emerges an olibanum/incense note, a bit more "elaborated" than usual, with a nice resinous aftertaste that adds "mystery" and meditation to the blend. All those spices and resins make quite a "bold" pot-pourri which may be a bit cloying after a while, so personally I would not wear this, but it's indeed an unusual and well-crafted fragrance.
A soft Jeanne-Marie Faugier's creation which includes a tad of semi-oriental orangy and spicy/incensey balminess a la Baume du Dodge (but the Frapin's one is finally more oriented over a sharper tobacco/incense prominent spicy dry down), hints of simil Guerlinade a la Shalimar Parfum Initial (hesperides, spicy/incensey balsams and rooty patchouli) and a whiff of Linfedele 1004's exotic spiciness (but in a softer, less oriental and more ethereal way). I detect a soft waving orange/spices/incense dominant accord (with a strong incense/cumin/cinnamon combo), an amber/vanilla/tobacco finally powdery association (a la Ambre Narguile or Phul-Nana) and a notable refined patchouli undertone (probably joined with bergamot in a luxurious tandem). The grapefruit provides an initial damp vibe but by soon the spices (a huge cumin) and the "white" incense are heady and tend to morph in to a "dusty" myrrh/tobacco/patchouli dry down still incensey and spicy and with a moderate orangy temperament. The dry down is delicate and still sharp but luxurious, exotic and inebriating, with the typical almost spiritual spicy/incensey aromas substance. Terre de Sarment is a well made juice for sure which is anyway unfortunately playing an utterly common (and already played thousands times) game.
Cinnamon and Cumin are my first impression, freshened up by a neroli background. The drydown brings out what is the centrepiece on my skin: a rich and heavy nutmeg aroma of impressive quality. Later in the base a pleasant tobacco-vanilla combination that is not heavy takes over. It is quite well balanced, but overall a bit pale and unexciting. The performance, however, is good, with decent projection but limited silage, and an excellent longevity of nine hours - the latter just brings it accross the line of the thumbs-up.
No this does not start as a grapefruit juice no matter what Frapin says on their website. What I smell on my skin is a very potent powdery gourmand with a vanillic accord that lasts for hours and hours after application. I write vanillic while what I really mean is ambery; however it is vanilla that is a registered note and the one I think is the main player in the long lived dry down. Do I like Terre de Sarment? Not particularly. I can imagine why for many this can be a winner, but not for me. I can also see why more women will find this appealing than men. Overall, this creation is a safe bet by Frapin and similar to many other well made perfumes out their. HdP has a couple that are similar not to mention the Lutens! Terre de Sarment is definitely not extraordinary and indeed very much related to 1270 by Frapin as scentsitivity has pointed out.
I've to be honest, I'm not very impressed by Terre De Sarment. The first time I tested it, it was on paper and the spicy-citrus opening was way more appealing if compared to the skin test. A full wear revealed a spicy woody fragrance that, while it's far from being unpleasant, it's still a little too pale to be outstanding or even remarkable. For the same price you can have much better alternatives (i.e. Idole de Lubin, Bois D'Ombrie). Nice but somehow not completely satisfying.
20th June, 2011 (last edited: 04th August, 2011)