Iris Pallida 2007 (2007)
by L'Artisan Parfumeur

The top notes are somewhat akin to the legendary Iris Silver Mist, the combination of carrot and iris being used again here, together with a large dollop of anise, but the spicy, earthy, rooty qualities found in ISM are absent, leaving Iris Pallida feeling rather reserved, and in a sense, "paler". The anise is strong and absinthesque, totally removed from any licorice-candy associations. In the drydown, Iris Pallida becomes very soapy, almost unpleasantly so, given the bone-dry backdrop of an increasingly woody iris, cedar, and anise.

Pay no attention to the "feminine" designation if you're worried about this being too sweet or floral - it couldn't be further away. This is a very dry, clean, almost ascetic iris, stripped of all opulence.

L'Artisan Iris Pallida (EDP, limited edition)

Notes: Iris, lily of the valley, violet leaf, orange blossom, rose, aniseed, patchouli, cedar, vetiver, ambrette seed, white musk, guaiac wood (from luckyscent.com)

In my first spray of Iris Pallida, immediately apparent are anise, pepper, iris root and violet leaf. The iris root is of the moist, carroty variety, although it does not have the typical cold and clammy quality that I sometimes smell in iris scents that are very rooty. The anise and violet are marvelous counterpoints as they seem to simultaneously warm and freshen the doughy aspects of the iris root. Later in the development, IP becomes much soapier. In fact, when combined with the iris and violet, the soapy note seems to launch IP into the space that lies between Prada Infusion d'Iris and Dior Homme EDT. If I could remove the lipstick note from Dior Homme, but keep the woody, herbal tones, and inject some lovely floral, soapy softness from Infusion d'Iris, I feel that I would arrive at Iris Pallida. Considering I enjoy Infusion d'Iris and Dior Homme a great deal, I find Iris Pallida quite lovely as well. Sillage and longevity are moderate, the arrival time to skin scent being around 5 to 6 hours. The deep drydown is comprised of creamy woods and light musk. Overall, an excellent choice for men or women, and worth testing by anybody who wants an alternative to mainstream designer iris fragrances.