Elixir (2008)
by Penhaligon's

Rather than repeat what's already been said in droves about the composition of the fragrance -- it's clearly something about which you have strong feelings -- I'd much rather focus on what this particular fragrance is and is not.

It IS rather nice. They've done a wonderful job on combining the components into a very nice melange that blends well and seamlessly transitions through the various elements. Incense, sandalwood, tonk a, all blend well in a surprising way with the eucalyptus and florals, striking a very god balance with a refined scent that is charming, alluring, and very pleasant to wear.

It IS NOT durable. Being an EDT, it's among the weakest EDT's I've tried. Within 2 hours, it's vanished such that you actually wish that it were a more cloying experience. To quote Harold Melvyn, "The love I lost was a sweet one," and this would be the fragrance that I'd certainly love if it had better longevity. The notes are all there, but they play in too subtle a manner for anyone but the wearer to enjoy, and only then for the shortest of duration.

This is a fragrance my wife had gotten, noting the presence of incense, and recognizing her deep hatred of TFPC Amber Absolute. This was olfactory pleasing for the all too brief time slice it lingers, but it's too fleeting. If only this could have been done in an EDP strength versus a concentration that's barely EDT, they'd have a keeper for me.

30th July, 2011.

Oh goodness. Gag. This was one of the few that I had to scrub nearly immediately after applying. A semi-competent, if generic, oriental lurking below a bile-conjuring sour soy-milk note. Revolting. Thank god for samples. I see other people find this agreeable so there must be something that just does not play nice with my chemistry.

3rd July, 2011.

The opening, and heart, remind me of a specific scent memory. On a visit to California, I was fortunate enough to enjoy a convertible drive from Sonoma to the coast on a beautiful, sunny spring day. We traveled along a two lane back road, and found ourselves driving between two rows of eucalyptus trees lining the road. It was a wonderful smell that I remember to this day.

Elixir brings that smell alive. It opens with an airy, rough bark smell of eucalyptus! It is the smell of the peeling bark, and not like any other fragrance that I have smelled. There is a small shift towards the heart by introducing the cinnamon aroma of the bark spice. This is not ground cinnamon, and certainly not the sweet candy smell. It is rough, barky, woody cinnamon. This is a beautiful transition that keeps the faint woody trend alive, but adds the spiciness that keeps this novel. The theme is continued throughout the heart as a rosewood note is introduced.

Now, this is the only fault I see in the composition. The rosewood stands out too much, and there is not another note to play off of. It is pleasant, but I think could have been used to better effect by being used as a basis for lifting another note. In any event, it didn't really detract from the scent, but was just possibly a lost opportunity to raise the bar even higher.

The base adds the faintest of vanilla to this rosewood note, but does not transition after this point.

This is a soft, somewhat faint, fragrance. It never overwhelms, as many "orientals" can do. Some will find it too faint, but if you allow the fragrance to envelope you with it's breezy, airy mood, you will find a novel tale of oriental opulence tamed, and with unique notes. Let it take you where you will, or let it remind you of a great drive to the coast. Either way, it is worth a sniff!

26th May, 2011.

A very nice spicy oriental fragrance. Warm and cozy, perfect for autumn and winter. This is the refined "niche" version of Gucci pour homme. Highly recommended if you like unique spicy orientals.

17th May, 2011.

I love both the softness and the Orientalism of Elixir. It is a refined and complex Oriental delivered in a translucent disguise… That an Oriental (which I enjoy but usually can’t carry off) works for me tells me that Elixir is quite an accomplishment.

Elixir’s softness belies its complexity. The opening is a wonderfully non-aggressive amorphous accord of aromatic woods, floral, and spice; it comes off a sophisticated, non-synthetic intricate abstraction. I particularly enjoy the slightly impressionistic feeling to the accord where the balanced notes of usually dramatic wood / spice notes take on a soft, pastel texture. The opening has good longevity, which is an unexpected bonus. The fragrance moves to a floral heart grounded by some non-aggressive cinnamon and rosewood in the background, and I find it a successful exercise in delivering depth, sophistication, and discretion while still presenting it as an identifiable Oriental. For the base I get primarily sandalwood and guaic wood; the two woods center the base in a warm softness: …another pastel texture accomplished beautifully. I get no incense, and I get just barely enough Tonka / vanilla to legitimize Elixir’s Oriental claim and persona. I think Olivia Giacobetti has done yet another remarkable job of creating a sophisticated, complex-but-translucent Oriental that is genuinely unisex and highly wearable… Soft sillage and good longevity and a definite purchase for me.

13rd May, 2011.

I usually love Olivia Giacobetti's creations but this one smells exactly like an indian stall at the flea market. Very cheap synthetic incense sticks! Undefined!

27th March, 2011. (Last Edited: 4th April, 2011.)