Vetiver Bourbon (2006)
by Miller Harris

This smells nothing like the famous vetivers of Guerlain, Givenchy etc. The opening is dark and heavy and pungent as if someone had tipped some M7 and Givenchy Gentlemean into Etro's (already fairly heavy and spicy) Vetiver and left it out in the sun overnight. I mean, Jesus. I love all three of those scents but you have to be wary with any of them.

Really, I spent the first hour or two hoping that nobody came close enough to smell me.

But mid-afternoon, the word "drydown" has never been more apt. It's the same smells but much more harmonious. The amber, patchouli and vetiver really do work very well together after a few hours.

It is therefore the perfect Saturday scent. You can wake up hungoverer, have breakfast, spray on some Vetiver Bourbon, hide from the world for a few hours and then head out smelling about as calmly sexy as one can imagine.

This is a straightforward scent, essentially a soliflore expressing vetiver in an earthy way. The opening has notes of bark and dark soil. Then, a distinctive note of iodine appears. That is sometimes found in vetiver; here is not unpleasant. It gives a crisp, acidic note. This combines with the developing patchouli for an interesting effect – briny, almost marine! This was unexpected, and intriguing. A bit of toasty brown from oakmoss makes an appearance. This is a nice scent, and it will appeal to vetiver fans. Is it distinctive enough to justify the premium price, when there are many other competent vetiver scents out there? I’m not sure. But it is a very pleasing and satisfying scent.

This is a deep, deep woody take on vetiver that requires some pulling off. It is potent and linear for a few hours, but the very late drydown when the oakmoss and amber merge is very nice. This vetiver version won't be for everybody and I don't think I will be investing in a full bottle, but would have if the basenotes were quicker to arrive.

A strongly earthy, resinous version of vetiver but without the rawness, if that makes sense. Apparently portions of the power and mystery of Vétiver Bourbon come from notes other than the vetiver – the patchouli and oakmoss, most likely. There is one formidable message being delivered by this fragrance. It is as resinously aromatic as an aoud or a wormwood scent; in fact, I had to refer to the pyramid to make certain that it wasn’t one of those that I was being over powered by. The fragrance with its vetiver, patchouli, and oakmoss comes off as very woody, and I suppose that that is a huge part of its potency. Vétiver Bourbon is linear and lacks complexity, but even so, sends forth some seminal vibrations. The longevity is less than average. This is an impressive fragrance, but, personally, I like my vetiver more wearable.