Original EDP (90 ml format)
The original, early version of John Galliano (EDP, 90 ml bottle) is a fantastic, complex, incredibly well-crafted green-powdery floral scent exuding all the composition talent of Christine Nagel (which I recognized here even before knowing she was actually the nose behind this scent). Since the very first sniff, the original Galliano EDP is a harmony played around powder and balsamic notes, with a fresh, tart aromatic hint of citrus and bergamot, then green notes, soapy rose-white flowers permeated with a gorgeous sort of crystalline brightness all over, a hint of vanilla, amber, cumin, a sweet-woody note on the base, white musks, discreet chalky aldehydes. What surprises me the most here is the peculiar texture, which is really thin, transparent, somehow “grey-ish”, incredibly clean yet complex and “vertical”, with a stunning richness and deepness of notes; it is decidedly all on the “fresh-spicy-floral” side, so all rather silky, fresh and dusty (no creaminess, no “juicy” wet flowers)... at the same time, all incredibly sharp, crisp, luminous and invigorating. Apart from other Nagel’s masterworks, I also thought of L’eau de Givenchy and that kind of “fresh” green-floral scents. Violet and iris compose the powdery accord, and while the reformulated version contains more (synthetic) iris, here I actually get more violet. The drydown is impeccable, always slightly grey-ish (I guess because of aldehydes too) but at the same time crisp, balsamic, talc, halfway foggy and celestial, with a musky-powdery breeze melting with herbal-green notes. It constantly changes,yet remaining perfectly consistent. The persistence is long and close to skin. Far more discreet and refined than the subsequent version, and also more elegant, much better composed and with higher quality materials – if you want my advice, seek for this early version only (pretty easy to spot, they made it only in 90ml format, while the subsequent one was marketed in 40/60 ml bottles). Incredibly pleasant. Mandatory for all floral scents lovers (and for niche enthusiasts which snub designer scents... well, I still have to find niche floral scents which are able to stand close to this good!).
Reformulated EDP (40/60 ml format)
Now, the subsequent reformulated version - which I’ve been told was produced elsewhere, this leading to a new formula & new materials that affected the quality (boy, they did...). The opening, for instance: far bolder, more pungent, more sour than in the original version, and also at the same time more fruity and sweet. Basically: more tacky, or better say more “flashy”. By this I mean all smells richer, but an artificial, saturated, harsh and “on-steroid” kind of rich. All notes smell like if they’ve been inflated with some weird kind of gas. No trace of the discreet, complex, naturally-evolving refinement of the 90 ml EDP with its balsamic and crystalline sharpness; here's all more loud, more spicy, with a bolder and more pungent synthetic feel all over. I get quite a lot less vanilla, less flowers (and surely, far less “silky” than there). The structure is roughly the same, just all here is heavier, tackier, more synthetic and camphoraceous. Plus (but that’s not a defect), I also get a whiff of carnation here – something I didn’t get in the early version. On the drydown it’s all even more dry, artificial and synthetic, more heavy and above all terribly linear, pretty much identical to itself for hours - while the evolution of the first EDP is mutating, complex, “evolving” in its true meaning, reaching a peak of foggy-talc powdery refinement which you won’t really experience with this more recent version (that on the contrary, after three hours is still the exact same synthetic floral polaroid). Now I don’t want to overestimate the differences, the reformulated version is still decently nice... as much decent as just incomparable to the original EDP to pretty much any extent.
You feel it harsh on first apply ,citruces notes come fist ,i feel bergamot note very deeply and then gets more strenght...rose petals and violets...powdery and strong, velvet touch but with a srong depth by patchouli note...deep , mysterious and sensual... a powerful woman who uses her strenghth to achieve her goals...
Her look reflects an uncovered passion...She likes tango dancing with her partner for life ...She is so unique !
Interesting stuff. A multi-layered fragrance with a very weird, harsh, minty top-note, reminiscent of freshly ironed laundry. The heart is flowery and softer, but strong enough to be perceived all day long. This said, I have to add that Eau de Galliano seems highly artificial, i.e. "chemical". Some of the notes are downright unpleasant and develop a sharp, biting echo on the skin. Perfumer Christine Nagel has done a lot of fine work already, I suppose this time her budget was too low in order to come up with something more - let's say - organic.
Whoah, was I ever unpopular when I spritzed a tiny bit of this in the office after receiving it in our Christmas goody bags!! Very, VERY powerful stuff indeed. The topnotes are remarkably weird, almost a petrochemical effect, can this be the angelica? I've never smelled this effect before. Probably some aldehyde I'm unfamiliar with, as there's a (strong!) zinginess and fizz. This phase lasts about an hour. After that, soft floral, especially violet, goodness, quite powdery. I love the drydown a LOT, but I'm not sure I can regularly sit through those bizarre topnotes - and I like me some weird, so I'm not sure how well this is going to sell. Love, love, love the packaging and the gutsiness (I disagree with Trebor, i do find it very provocative and daring!), but doubt this will be more than a curiosity in my collection. (Although, when I washed it off to spare my office mate's disgust yesterday, I found the topnotes left and the lovely soft base remained. So maybe this is an option.)
Oh and ps I read somewhere that Ayala Sender finds pure angelica nauseating, and that was my colleagues' reaction to Galliano, so maybe angelica is the culprit up top? They HATED it.
John Galliano's first perfume for women is as complex and creative as the man himself. It's a floral aldehyde but like a prism it changes at every twist and turn.First impression is definitely and aldehyde with a hint of Chanel No 5 with the iris and bergamot, then comes the powdery scent of powder puffs with the violet and rose as if you just stepped into a showgirls powderroom, then there's the intoxicating scent of musk, amber and a sensual woody undertone like an 18th century boudoir.
The bottle itself reminds me of one of Galliano's gowns with the glass twisted and moulded to look like cinched gothic ballgown in fuschia and black adorned with a gold rose.John Galliano's first perfume has taken us from the catwalk to your dresser. You may not be able to afford a Gallliano creation but at least you can loose yourself in the aroma of one.