Dusty, exotic, succulent, "greedy", vaguely liquorous, oneiric, licentious, lascivious and decadent. L'Hetre Reve Nez a Nez is a beautiful aerial-spicy and resinous amber accord at the beginning conjuring me partially scents a la Diptyque Eau Duelle, O.P.S.O Baiana or Profumum Fiore d'Ambra but actually taking along the way an its own diverse peculiarity. The opening is soon a fist in your face of cloves, cumin, cinnamon, candied dry fruits, aromatic-minty spices, molecular amber, woods and a touch of liqueur. A whiff of frankincense-myrrh too, may be (or probably is just the cloves effect plus a touch of smoke)? Really luxurious and elusive stuff. The refined manneristic Paris in its 20's jump vaguely on mind. In a while a well calibrated sugary plummines starts swirling around with its really royal-candied aura (never fat, syrupy or overly performing, just a fruity caress in the woody ambery dust). The final evolution carries out a refined "tail" of tobacco, smooth leather, patchouli and powdery woods so balanced, spicy, vaguely talky and exotic. At the beginning, in the middle of the powder, it was like to detect violet leaves or orris roots, actually I read somewhere listed wisteria which probably elicits a sort of similar talky-floral feel in the air. Both sexes can wear this dandy olfactory beauty in my opinion. Excellent fragrance in its genre.
21st November, 2014 (last edited: 07th January, 2015)
The opening is an almost-boozy, rather intense accord of tonka, flowers (jasmine?), with a balsamic-minty breeze, a medicinal touch provided by cloves, a sandalwood-vanillin-Iso E base. On the base, an undertone of green notes, slightly metallic and aldehydated, from which it slowly emerges a subtle suede and woody accord. There is also a "dissonant" note which I frankly don't appreciate, it may be a plum-red pepper accord Ė a sort of tiny, edible, sticky and fruity heart. The blend evolves then basically on the same path, just softening down progressively, settling down a white musks-sandalwood-plum accord with a soft and mellow overall feel, an aromatic note of vetiver, a general, and a bit generic mossy-balsamic breeze. Halfway powdery-fruity and woody-earthy. A bit pale, but decent.
L'Hetre Reve opens with a big blast of spice with cloves, cinnamon and amber to the fore and I'm thinking I might give it a miss. I was also checking out Mercheri's Oliban, which is similar but without the clove kick and was definitely going to purchase. However, the drydown of L'Hetre Reve changed my mind very quickly. A beautiful accord of lush woods, leather and plum was beginning to show it's hand and I was smitten.
LíHetre Reve is like a deja vu.Instantly my mind was transferred at the scene of Alice in Wonderland,where Alice meets the caterpillar,on the big colourful mushroom smoking a pipe.The charming aromas surround her and bring dizziness,she got to move on but it wouldn't mind if she stays for a little while,after all it's so cozy and intoxicating.
Spicy amber and aromatic sandalwood... hey wait, I know this frag! This smells a heck of a lot like Egoiste. It's subtler and develops into a vanilla amber towards the end but the opening and heart feels just like Egoiste. Sometimes "clones" are good.