Vanithe opened as an airy citrus with an immediate rough edge. The verveine, rosemary and smoky tea came across like tobacco. A pale sweetness comes in within minutes and strengthens as it ages.
I started smelling the jasmine tea after 10 minutes, and I had to laugh as at that point it became a victim of its own success. I've never cared for jasmine tea - to get the full jasmine liquor I had to brew the black tea to tannic bitterness, and even then it was a thin jasmine, not the full voluptuous jasmine devotees loved. The mid note of Vanithe is a very respectable recreation of what I smell with jasmine tea. But that's not good :)
For some reason it's hard to just let this fragrance be and not force it in a direction I want. I wanted Vanithe to make up for the jasmine tea inadequacies I've experienced and deliver what I always envisioned in my head. Instead, it was a faithful recreation. Which means a somewhat high thin superficial jasmine enveloped in the aroma of a lemon sugar, but with a bed of smoke and herb. It's an odd combination. Not exactly satisfactory.
I didn't really notice the vanilla for 45 minutes, which was fine by me, as I'm not a vanilla fan. I prefer it fully integrated, never on its own or showcased. It was a somewhat transparent vanilla, not as banal as I feared it would be, and was actually a relief, offsetting the lemony sugar. What does that mean, when you welcome one note because it tones down another note you like less?
In the dry down, the smoky tea came out more and merged with the thin vanilla and the jasmine and sugar receded somewhat. This was my favorite part and becomes a little bright bit of sugary, floral, smoky vanillic sweetness. The notes in this fragrance are mostly transparent, so the ending is also. I have to say the far ending, before it disappeared, was really quite light and pretty. If the rest of the fragrance had been like that, it would have been a winner. I was never seduced by Vanithe. The thinness, sweetness and disconnect with the smoky tea seems purposeful, but it was, until right before the end, discordant on me. A little too much white sugar, a little too thin, a little too contrasty.
10th March, 2015 (last edited: 24th March, 2015)
I can't understand all the opprobium heaped on this scent. Admittedly, it's a fairly simple premise of tea and vanilla, but it is very well blended. It lasts for ages on me also and leaves a lovely sillage in it's wake. Imo, totally unisex. I have received amazingly positive comments from the fairer sex when wearing this, so can't be all bad.
Cheap smelling is right! The verbena opening is too sweet. The tea that comes in isnt dark enough to balance the whole thing out. Yes, it does settle down in about 20 minutes and luises the sweet lemon tea vibe, but the sweet-woody-vanilla base still isnt something I would want to wear.
Not quite sure what to make of this. VANITHE opens with a little verbena that dissipates all too quickly with the arrival of smoky tea leaves. At this point I was reminded somewhat of Russian Caravan Tea by CB I Hate Perfume except that the sillage is subdued and flat, with a lingering note of woodsmoke over a mildly sweet base. Nothing fruity about it at all. It may be a little rough around the edges but after 20 minutes it settles down to a pleasant, close-wearing scent I'd probably enjoy smelling on a woman.
One of the better releases from this house, this actually smells reasonably lovely, although its also unbelievably cheap smelling. It smells exactly like one of those cheap girly candy scents that can be found from trendy clothing stores.
Vanithe smells a bit like Gaultier2, but its more synthetic smelling and not quite that warm. Fruity bubblegum fragrance.
Nez a Nez is officially a niche house, but it certainly doesn`t behave like one. Not at all.
The only way I can see this house surviving in the future is a quick change to their house perfumer, preferably to someone who already has some sort of credibility.