Noir Patchouli
by Histoire de Parfums

I'll 'fess up - I love the vanillic accord that seems to run through a number of Histoire de Parfums' releases. But I had expected NOIR PATCHOULI to be darker, grittier, sombre. Instead it comes across as a pleasant, lightly musky and dirty rose scent. It plays a little too safe when its name grants it the licence to thrill, to push boundaries to the very edge. And when it finally gets darker in the second hour, it is only by a shade, the patchouli gaining more prominence. Objectively speaking, however, Noir Patchouli actually smells good enough for a thumbs up. Just leave those expectations at the door.

Although it's not an unadulterated patchouli scent, Patchouli Noir is not all that dark either...

Instead, this is a delicious and very wearable patchouli (pretty much in the same manner as it's amber counterpart, Ambre 114). It's quite a complex composition, with subtle floral accords, but my main reservation is its lack of presence. While its longevity and sillage are slightly above average, I was hoping for more aggression and drama (especially going by its name). Alas, as a result, its general performance was very polite and demure.

Still, this is a lovely patchouli fragrance worth investigating but, somehow, I didn't find it as compelling as Ambre 114.

Histoires de Parfums Noir Patchouli

When your House is called History of Perfume you can already tell how high they are trying to aim. In 2005 they created three scents focused on one note. Noir Patchouli is the first of these I've tried. The top of this starts out with a roar of patchouli which is matched only slightly by some spice. I like patchouli but the top of this was so much patchouli I was worried that patchouli was all this was going to be. I needn't have worried because as we progress to the heart the patchouli pulls back and it is matched with rose and a different set of spices from the top. Here there is some pepper to add some edge to things. As we get to the base here is where this one comes alive as a leather note becomes a co-conspirator with the patchouli. This end phase lasts and lasts and is really quite evenly balanced between the two to leave this in a great place. I have read that for others the patchouli seems to disappear after the top. I didn't find that, patchouli is at its most aggressive in the top and the floral character of Noir Patchouli clearly rules the heart but it is on equal footing in the base. For me, as one who likes his patchouli you can serve it up to me "Noir" anytime.

Noir Patchouli isnt our typical earthy, resinous, gritty patchouli based scent(it's no ingrant patchouli or a Thundra, No).it's more of a celebration and it celebrates with a wonderful melange of spices (barks) and floral bouquet under the soft breath of patchouli and lovely notes of vanilla. it gives off a very victorian feel. it's like Penhaligons doing Villoresi Musk kinda accord. i guess what i really want to say is, it has a very powdery rich, musky feel to it which is bewitching to say the least and yes, it;s on the sweeter side (vanillic). i'm totally "hooked on" to this accord. it really takes me back to the eighties. somethin in it really screams out to me and tells, you have sniffed this accord before(maybe my Moms freinds who visited over the weekend? i think yes...or maybe this smells like a group of ladies, doused in scents..an amalgamation of different perfumes? yet, saying that, it's remarkably, a unisex offering). if you love the smell of spices (barks) tightly integrated with carnation on a lovey mids of musc and vanilla, done in a very old fashioned way then, this is it. by basenotes, Patchouli spreads it's magic towards the base and creates and aura of mystic to the whole equation. price is the only factor that is holding me back at this stage....this one goes to my must have lists.