Oh, finely done. This scent is ripped straight from the ideology of the late 60's into the early 70's. The kids that opposed the U.S. going to war were fighting back with everything - fashion, drugs, lifestyle, anything to oppose the norms which represented their parents' generation and what chaos they had created. Thus was born a more fierce and much less polite form of fragrance - the patchouli leather power frag.
Noir Patchouli opens with an almost oppressively dank duo which immediately set up shop and dominate the first fifteen minutes, after which a gradual emergence of rose and white florals takes place in slow motion. Part Derby, Part Salvador Dali, this is all dark territory, bad attitude with great hair, and f&%# the Man, until the white floral aspects reach full bloom and voila! The restless teenagers have inadvertently become their parents, as a strikingly clean accord similar to the heart of scents like Balmain's beautiful Ivoire takes over, a well-mannered kid dressed in leather on a rebellious streak. What a fun ride.
This is nonsense. Patchouli? All wrong! Leather? Purchase a bar of Cussons. Florals and Musk? Close your eyes and pick anything off the Feminine shelf at your local Sephora. Price? Are you kidding?
I am not done with this house, as Ambre 114 is a charmer to be sure.
Noir Patch is no match for the likes of Givenchy Gentleman Vintage, Coromandel, Giorgio For Men, Led IV.
23rd November, 2015 (last edited: 22nd June, 2016)
Patchouli is evident throughout. A harsh, dark and bitter patchouli that is softened to some extent by cardamom and coriander spiciness. The drydown displays flowery and fruity characteristics, whilst the base takes on a musky smokiness with ambery leather notes in a traditional combination that has a certain resinous waxiness on my skin.
The middle notes are the least compelling part, but overall is is an excellent composition. I get moderate sillage with good projection and a splendid longevity of nine hours.
A good example of a patchouli-centred scent. 3.75/5
Noir Patchouli has a funereal cast: dust to dust to dust.
The main protagonist is a spice-tinged patchouli (the spices giving it a slightly sweaty cast) combined with an aged leather and sprinkled with talcum powder florals. Its predominant mood is of old, unopened things; all the notes rising like a cloud of perfumed dust. So far so Morticia Addams, though there is a promising chypric structure underpinning it all that never fully emerges from the shadows.
Undoubtedly executed with finesse and a keen sense of proportion, for me it lacks immediacy. I’m rarely in the mood for something so lost in its own reverie.
A nice velvety black patchouli scent, not much realistic or deep, and with a discreet rubbery feel all over, kind of terpenic and industrial, which on one side tones down the vibrant earthiness of patchouli, and on the other side transfigures it into a more abstract, sticky and oily note, in a sort of futuristic interpretation of such ingredient. Still, with a bold connection with the past: aldehydes, carnation, rose, leather and herbs create a notable feel of masculine chypre like it was common in the '70s and '80s, just less dense and complex, less powerful, with a more satin, modern personality (trendy, in short). A skanky vibe on the very base, although a bit pale and glossy. Less offensive, dark and "daring" than it may appear, and also quality-wise far more modest than lots of vintage chypres. In short, another niche scent which "acts" and "pretends" more than actually is and does... not bad, but if you're into this type of scents, just cross the door of vintage realm – plenty of better fragrances on the same chords (needless to say, at cheaper prices).
19th August, 2014 (last edited: 21st August, 2014)