Cuir d'Iris
by Parfumerie Generale

I always feel at a bit of a loss when I'm writing a review that follows such creative, wonderful input from others who have a vernacular and understanding that I'm still striving to achieve. What I hope is to do this fragrance justice with this review.

PG Cuir d'Iris is the winner of the PG line from what I've tried thus far (most of them). Some had said it could be difficult to warm up to the top notes but to hang in for the dry-down. What I get in the top notes is a brisk (but not sharp) fine, fine leather - probably one of the most *accurate and comfortable* renditions of leather I've tried. This is what expensive leather smells like, most definitely. Cuir d'Iris is truly a masterpiece - it achieves such a divine, realistic leather with a perfect blend of other notes without, for a second, smelling cheap, synthetic or contrived.

Even after having a bottle for a couple of months and a sample for a month before that I'm still finding gorgeous notes in Cuir d'Iris after subsequent wearings. Could this be one of the best applications of iris in a fragrance to date? Possibly. I don't find there is much powder to it - it is smoky and it does have a gorgeous amber in the dry-down. Longevity is spectacular while sillage is comfortable and just about right.

This is an absolutely elegant, refined and classy leather fragrance that almost defies categorization as a "leather fragrance" when comparing with others out there. I'm not sure I would call this one a dark leather, like vintage Antaeus. There is no dark, earthy vetiver to anchor it and give it darkness. Instead it is a warm, sensuous amber and yes, gourmand notes. I feel ambitious and confident wearing Cuir d'Iris, and I seriously doubt I'll ever grow tired of it.

Cuir d'Iris is one of the most interesting leather fragrances on the market. Deep, dark, complex, and unique - what more do you need?

Like most leather fagrances, Cuir d'Iris uses another note to imitate tanned hide - here, castoreum, and a lot of it. It's the first thing noticeable on application, and forms the core of this fragrance. Restraining the animal warmth is a dusty iris, cardamon, and a peculiar dry tannic quality PG used also in Iris Taizo. The effect is smoky and mysterious, forgoing the oriental voluptuousness many fragrances temper their leather note with. A faint vanilla is discernible in the base, lending a touch of calming warmth.

This juice is very powerful and long lasting, so it's best to apply to with caution in order to appreciate its subtleties.

Parfumerie Generale Cuir D'Iris

Pierre Guillaume has really done an incredible job of creating a number of different scents in his Parfumerie Generale line. Over the course of these creations it is clear that he has a particularly deft hand with gourmand notes and with leather. In the 2008 release Cuir D'Iris, part of the Private Collection, he perhaps creates his most intense leather to date. Right from the top you get leather and it is the leather of a fine leather arm chair. At first that seems to be all that is there but then ever so subtly you smell the vase holding the bouquet of irises that is next to this armchair. This is a powdery iris which is delicateley added around the edges of the leather. I'm not sure I would've placed iris in the name of this scent for all of the heft it brings and the length of its stay. The heart of this mixes a little chocolate in with the leather this is the cocoa powder version of chocolate which comes across less rich and compliments the leather center. The base is all amber and leather and this is exquisite in its depth as the rawer edges of amber rough up the leather and make for an excellent ending to this scent. If you're an iris lover and not a leather lover I wouldn't bother with this one because the iris is really only there for a short time. If you are a leather lover this is a must try because it is one of the finest pure leathers out there, to me.

A dark, rich, and refined leather/iris fragrance that's balanced from top to base with vaguely gourmand notes and powdery amber.

Pure heaven.

If you read the male fragrance message board, you already know that this is one of my holy grails of perfumery. Although leather is prominent in many PG fragrances, this is 'the' leather fragrance of the line. Further, I collect any and all leather fragrances, and this is by far the best of all of them.

Strong leather is present from top to base, and in each phase of development there are different accords and notes balancing the leather. The leather note is dark and rich. Powerful - not like a leather jacket but rather being inside a Bentley with its 27 cows worth of corinthian leather. Iris presents itself not as a distinct note, but as powdery top-note to balance the intensity of the leather. As with many PGs, there are hints of gourmand notes, in this case raisin and cocoa notes, that present themselves in the heart of the fragrance and become more prominent in the base, at which point cocoa and light fruit notes are joined by a lightly vanillic amber. There are *no* distinct spicy or woody notes, though these may be present to create the leather accord.

The gourmand and amber notes are very subtle unless you over-apply, which I like to do. One spray and you're surrounded in a leathery aroma. Two sprays brings out more fullness of the fragrnace, and with three sprays you can really notice the cocoa and raisin notes. Be warned that with three sprays you will smell of rich leather for the next 20-24 hours and there won't be anyone within a few feet of you that won't notice. True leather nirvana.

As with most of the PG line, expect this to last on your skin for about 24 hours under normal conditions. If you like leather fragrances and haven't tried this, you're missing out.

Powdery leather. After a while, the powdery notes become pure leather and spicy woods. A little subtle but it's a leather with a smoky bite.