Cuir d'Iris
by Parfumerie Generale

I tend to love the bolder leathers that others might call harsh. And perpetually forgetting the logic of Knize Ten, one of my favorite fragrances, I imagine the ‘floral leathers’ won’t appeal to me, since the flower will diminish the boldness. Cuir d’Iris is another reminder of this blind spot. It is a spectacular floral leather. The leather and the iris each retain their own identities, but the common ground is more a tone or quality than an accord. The iris lends a dryness that, in a side step from the expected, is dusty rather than specifically powdery. The leather note here smells more like actual leather than the rubbery, smoky or tar-like characteristics that we usually talk about in leather perfumes. Together the potent tannic quality of the leather and the forceful, make-up feel of the iris give the scent a savage civility that simultaneously draws me in and keeps me at arms-length.

The evil twin of Cuir de Lancome.

30th May, 2011. (Last Edited: 2nd June, 2011.)

Wow, I'm no leather expert, but this fragrance has a BEAUTY of a leather note! I do smell the orris, especially in the opening, but this is much more cuir than iris to me. And that was fine, as I love iris notes as stars and as supporting players.
The leather was not harsh, but instead, very much a leather glove or purse type smell. Just lovely. It finally faded after about 4-5 hours into something with a hint of amber and/or maybe even some vanilla. The hint of orris stayed around almost until the end, but very much in the background and very much a lifter or support note.
I continue to be impressed with Parfumerie Generale's take on notes. They are modern, some of them semi gourmand, but all are interesting and well done of the ones I have smelled. I'm enjoying exploring this house, and my wish list keeps growing.

15th May, 2011.

This is so-so, ok. I must admit I didn't fall head over heals for it. I get a mild iris note without much distinction. I get a tiny bit of leather, then it all goes a bit too patchouli for me. I don't see patchouli listed on the Basenotes site, but I swear there is loads of it here. While I don't mind patchouli and I know it is used a lot in leather scents, I don't get a huge leather slant with this one.

21st March, 2010.

I always feel at a bit of a loss when I'm writing a review that follows such creative, wonderful input from others who have a vernacular and understanding that I'm still striving to achieve. What I hope is to do this fragrance justice with this review.

PG Cuir d'Iris is the winner of the PG line from what I've tried thus far (most of them). Some had said it could be difficult to warm up to the top notes but to hang in for the dry-down. What I get in the top notes is a brisk (but not sharp) fine, fine leather - probably one of the most *accurate and comfortable* renditions of leather I've tried. This is what expensive leather smells like, most definitely. Cuir d'Iris is truly a masterpiece - it achieves such a divine, realistic leather with a perfect blend of other notes without, for a second, smelling cheap, synthetic or contrived.

Even after having a bottle for a couple of months and a sample for a month before that I'm still finding gorgeous notes in Cuir d'Iris after subsequent wearings. Could this be one of the best applications of iris in a fragrance to date? Possibly. I don't find there is much powder to it - it is smoky and it does have a gorgeous amber in the dry-down. Longevity is spectacular while sillage is comfortable and just about right.

This is an absolutely elegant, refined and classy leather fragrance that almost defies categorization as a "leather fragrance" when comparing with others out there. I'm not sure I would call this one a dark leather, like vintage Antaeus. There is no dark, earthy vetiver to anchor it and give it darkness. Instead it is a warm, sensuous amber and yes, gourmand notes. I feel ambitious and confident wearing Cuir d'Iris, and I seriously doubt I'll ever grow tired of it.

6th October, 2009.

Cuir d'Iris is one of the most interesting leather fragrances on the market. Deep, dark, complex, and unique - what more do you need?

Like most leather fagrances, Cuir d'Iris uses another note to imitate tanned hide - here, castoreum, and a lot of it. It's the first thing noticeable on application, and forms the core of this fragrance. Restraining the animal warmth is a dusty iris, cardamon, and a peculiar dry tannic quality PG used also in Iris Taizo. The effect is smoky and mysterious, forgoing the oriental voluptuousness many fragrances temper their leather note with. A faint vanilla is discernible in the base, lending a touch of calming warmth.

This juice is very powerful and long lasting, so it's best to apply to with caution in order to appreciate its subtleties.

16th September, 2009.

Parfumerie Generale Cuir D'Iris

Pierre Guillaume has really done an incredible job of creating a number of different scents in his Parfumerie Generale line. Over the course of these creations it is clear that he has a particularly deft hand with gourmand notes and with leather. In the 2008 release Cuir D'Iris, part of the Private Collection, he perhaps creates his most intense leather to date. Right from the top you get leather and it is the leather of a fine leather arm chair. At first that seems to be all that is there but then ever so subtly you smell the vase holding the bouquet of irises that is next to this armchair. This is a powdery iris which is delicateley added around the edges of the leather. I'm not sure I would've placed iris in the name of this scent for all of the heft it brings and the length of its stay. The heart of this mixes a little chocolate in with the leather this is the cocoa powder version of chocolate which comes across less rich and compliments the leather center. The base is all amber and leather and this is exquisite in its depth as the rawer edges of amber rough up the leather and make for an excellent ending to this scent. If you're an iris lover and not a leather lover I wouldn't bother with this one because the iris is really only there for a short time. If you are a leather lover this is a must try because it is one of the finest pure leathers out there, to me.

2nd May, 2009.