This is a tart, smoky amber scent, with much emphasis placed on the leathery, animalic aspects of labdanum resin. It intrigues me in that it manages to be at once dark and transparent, an impression I’ve only received before from Olivia Giacobetti’s Idole and Tea for Two. In fact the longer I wear L’Oiseau de Nuit, the more I’m reminded of Idole. L’Oiseau de Nuit shares the Lubin scent’s “boozy” quality, its smoke, and its leather, though they are presented in a simpler composition, without Idole’s black cumin and saffron. But where Idole dries down toward smoky wood and leather, L’Oiseau de Nuit resolves to a tangy amber base that, while attractive, is also more conventional.
In a limited wardrobe, I’d consider this scent somewhat interchangeable with say, Ambre Russe, Ambre Sultan, or Ambre Precieux, and were I limiting myself to one amber scent L’Oiseau de Nuit is not the first I’d choose. For this specific sort of booze, amber, smoke, and leather structure, I’d take Idole over L’oiseau de Nuit as well, as I prefer Idole’s comparative depth and complexity. However, if like many, you find Idole too confrontational, L’Oiseau de Nuit might be a better bet.
'L'Oiseau de Nuit' (Night Bird), hailing from PG's outstanding 'Private Collection', is Pierre's second amber-centric fragrance after the gorgeous feline amber of 'L'Ombre Fauve'. Tho' both are easily unisex (as all of PG's scents are) I'd say that L'Ombre would be his more masculine and furry-feral leaning amber, whilst in comparison L'Oiseau would be his sweeter and slightly more "femme leaning" fruity-floral amber. What they both are though is utterly irresistible for any lover of quality amber fragrances. It's interesting, delicious amber at it's very best !
The moment it's out the bottle it's all warm rich labdanum-y amber, sensuous and intoxicating. Think of a slightly more floral/fruity L'Arisan's Ambre Extrême, and you'd be very close - almost like twin siblings at this stage. Soon after tho' it starts to diverge and bloom it's own personality, it's resins becoming ever more floral and fruity, with even ever so very slightly spicy nuances. This from the syrupy stewed dessicated-fruit of the Davana liqueur which has intrinsic subtle spiced facets. Peeking beneath all this lies just a ghost of a geranium permeating - so essential for a great amber accord. (At least in IMO !)
And yes underpinning it all is the softest hint of leather roughing up the amber ever so slightly, tho' easily missed unless one's paying attention. In no way would I consider this a "leather scent" as such, the soft musky leather is there merely to add a certain subtle animalic character to the amber, which it does beautifully without ever becoming conspicuous.
Then half-way thru', just as it's at risk of perhaps becoming too sweet, it gradually darkens and 'butchens up' somewhat, picking up a woodier facet and loosing it's previous floral-fruity facets considerably. Leaving a more comfortable, more solitary resinous amber for many hours until only a dusting of slightly musky (clean) vanillard benzoin remains in the far drydown. Gorgeous warm and comforting from start to finnish.
For any lover of well-done ambers I'm pretty sure a flutter of this beautiful "night bird" is sure to warm your hearts.
An interesting scent with liquer of davana - which is why I decided to test it. The top notes smell like sweet fruit candy wrapped in thick plastic. Not a bad smell but not the best. It becomes more transparent as the top notes burn off, hanging on to the sweetness and becoming ambery . Not bad ,not the best.
I've yet to try another PG that is as sweet as this. Honeyed, floral-amber with light touches of smoke and booze.
Another sublime entry from Parfumerie Generale. The basis of L'Osieau de Nuit is labdanum, and accordingly it is a very ambery fragrance. Unlike Le Labo's Labdanum 18, there's quite a bit more going on. There is a light booziness, and although not published notes I could swear there's a touch of cocoa and citrus. These notes are inferred and not distinct, and the touches of sweetness and a little sharpness round out the fragrance. The citrus hints are more apparent in the heart of the fragrance and when worn (as opposed to sampling on your wrist). On drydown there is a subtle leathery quality to L'OdN, but it is just that - subtle - and not like the leather in Cuir d'Iris or Cuir Venenum.
As with most PGs, there is a gourmand quality to L'OdN without the fragrance actually being any recognizable food. Unlike Aomassai, Cadjmere, and Coze, this fragrance is far more delicate, and while it not transparent by any means (as few PGs are), it is not as rich. This is not a criticism, just an observation, and I think it serves to differentiate this entry from the many other gourmands in the line.
Add this to the list of PG's I would love to see in my wardrobe.
Published notes from Luckyscent: cistus labdanum, liqueur of davana, benzoin, leather