Kolnisch Juchten
by Parfums Regence

Well, I need to admit that I am not a fan of leather scents. However, this is such a legendary, almost mythic scent that I had to try it. I just sniffed it on paper. It is a huge smokey-leather scent. I have heard it described as suggesting spicy and fatty sausages grilling and slightly burnt on an outdoor wood fire. Very high-calorie and animalic! Well, that is exactly what I encountered. I'm glad to have encountered it -- it definitely is one of the most unique scents I have smelled. By the way, Parfums Regence makes a whole slew of scents, not just this one. I sampled their Lavender and Vert scents at Jaquelines as well... nothing special in either of those. Lavender was a reasonable lavender, Vert was a soapy-green scent, a bit heavy.

25th November, 2011.

A very good but overrated dark oriental scent that is worshipped on Basenotes simply because it's hard to find. Kolnisch Juchten is much more of an oriental than a leather fragrance because the smoky, oily, petroleum-like smell so characteristic of leathers is only present during the first half hour of the scent, after which it evolves into a rather basic sweet patchouli-based oriental that doesn't break any new ground. I like this primarily for its dark smell.

I find it hard to believe that this is a fragrance hundreds of years old. It smells like a modern niche fragrance to me, sort of like a tame, non-raunchy Mazzolari Lui. I suspect that if Kolnisch Juchten were made by Coty or sold at Macy's, all the niche fragrance snobs would be criticising it, saying how poorly balanced it is and how it smells like barbecue sauce. As it is, due to its rarity Kolnisch Juchten is a fragrance that the average perfume consumer won't be able to buy, so of course everyone gushes about what a masterpiece this is. The truth, however, is that it's just a very good fragrance, not a great one.

MY RATING: 8/10

3rd April, 2011. (Last Edited: 12nd May, 2011.)

Kolnisch Juchten is a fragrance you will love or hate or come to love. I know nothing about its legendary origins. The only incarnation I know is the current black spray bottle I purchased in September 2010 from Andre at Jacqueline Parfumerie in San Francisco. The bottle, by the way, has an interesting concave architecture I find visually appealing and a pleasure to handle.

The scent of the initial sprays is a strong and lingering, even a pervasive smoke and tar smell that in its purity and pungency is unique to my experience. There is a reflection of this dense, dark flavor in Knize Ten, my reference leather fragrance, but Knize is so much more complex and multidimensional than any other leather I have tried that the smoke and tar in its make up is fleeting in comparison to K J, despite the complaints about Knize's smoke and tar opening from the leather faint of heart.

On first impression, K J seems a dark monotone of pungent, tarry smoke. But as the smoke settles down, very light frankincense and myrrh notes rise up and mix in the smoke and smoothes over everything.

It is almost true that this fragrance does not have a top or a middle or a base. Its top is all tar and smoke, and it is quite pervasive and lingering. In its middle the smoke radiates both Russian smoked leather, and incense, and one can certainly imagine it is incense with the gravity of the Russian Orthodox Church. On final dry down the Russian incense floats above a quietly dry, smokey radiance. This bottom is very close to the skin and is not apparent unless you smell yourself, or are in intimate contact with the one who smells this subtle, underplayed bottom.

Some have complained that K J has no base note, or not a strong enough base note. I think this is a misunderstanding. This fragrance in my opinion is the first great incense creation. It is really made up of layers of smoke. Looked at in this way, K J is much more complex and much more powerful than the finest of the modern minimalist incense fragrance designs. I love the delicate, lingering beauty of Kyoto, for instance, but it has no important evolution from top to bottom. K J is not evanescently beautiful like Kyoto. By this I do not mean that Kyoto vanishes quickly but that its impression is delicate and lasts as much in the mind as in the nose. K J lasts in the nose, and changes subtly in its aspects but remains pervasive like a cloud of incense smoke.

It took me more than a week to become addicted to the smoke and tar infusion of the initial sprays of this fragrance. The outer rings of K J have an elegant, smokey gravitas. As the cologne dries down the weight of the tar is lightened and warmed by the incense notes. In more time the cologne gives off subtle, dry warmth near the skin.

I find that K J is a perfect fragrance, centered on a strong, dark smokey incense note cluster, to blend with more friendly fragrances.

Two months ago I purchased Elsha 1776, another obscure "Russian" leather. I love this inexpensive, warm and comfortable fragrance. It is all a rich,glow. Mixed with K J both fragrances become much more complex in interplay, and they are so well matched the result, while not a magnificent and charming as Knize Ten, is unique, more like Knize Ten than most leathers, and much more inexpensive and wearable than Knize and many other high end, expensive creations.

With K J in your hand and Elsha 1776 on your body you can control how sophisticated you would like your fragrance to project by controlling the number of K J sprays. I just have trouble holding back my K J sprays. I have come to love the smell of smoke and tar, mostly smoke. I consider it an outstanding and important fragrance. You may not like it. But if you do, you will give it your highest recommendation, as I do.

Addendum: I went on a fragrance testing trip to Sephora and Nordstrom recently. All of the fragrances from the most niche and esoteric to the most popular and most expensive paled in impact and lasting impression on my skin to K J. Only A-Men stood up to K J. This is not a vote for A-Men or against the other fragrances. But there are many insipid, and faint of heart creations out there. None of the current formulations of men's colognes I tested had the depth of fragrance that K J has.

This does not mean that some of these expensive fragrances were not quite beautiful. But much fewer than I would hope. Bulgari Black, so highly touted by Luca Turin was a pale flower in comparison to K J. Let this also be a warning. My favorite, Knize Ten, which is now only readily available in After Shave from Colonial Drug in Boston also has a strong and lasting heart. Finally take note that Andre has raised his price on K J by $10. It is worth it and more.

4th October, 2010.

Oh geeze. This is absolutely GLORIOUS...like the guys have said - birchtar and oiled leather of the club chair variety with a waft of roses? Can that be powder.... ? VERY tao...light and dark, soft and strong...aggressive and retiring...and did I mention the leather?

Girls you gotta try this...call Andre and be sweet. He's a pussycat.

17th August, 2009.

Thick and rich dark, animalic, sticky leather, tar, patchouli and incense notes. This stuff is so butch it makes Robin William's chest hair look like Patrick Stewart's head. The list of ingredients would suggest that this would be overpowering but it's rather average in that aspect but average is a good thing when considering something so dark. Mazzolari Lui too much for you but need something equally as masculine? Try this supposed 300 year old formula.

16th May, 2009.

I'm surprised so few BN'ers know about this juice. 300 year old formula? I don't doubt it. There's a wonderfully magisterial feel to this one comparable with Blenheim Bouquet or Vintage Tabarome, but far more suited to a knight of old.
One who is chivalrous and courteous but refuses to bear any insults.
Are you sure it's not older than 300? While I can see Cyrano wearing this light and poetic leather as his signature scent, it would not be out of place for El Cid either.

Be forewarned, Kolnisch Juchten is a joy to lovers of leather scents but if someone exhibits ordinary urban rudeness towards you, do try to refrain the impulse to throw down a glove, reach for the hilt of your rapier and languidly ask:

" My dear sir, are you challenging me to a duel? "

11th March, 2009. (Last Edited: 24th March, 2011.)