Rêve en Cuir (2008)
by Indult

A very pure and true leather fragrance, though refined and never animalic. It starts out sweet and smooth like soft leather gloves or even suede, but turns a little drier and sharper (also more powdery) over time, resembling some rougher leather goods or old and cracked leather. The sweetness is still present at this stage but no longer seems like the sweetness of the leather itself, more like some added floral notes and there's also a distinct spiciness apart from the leather. A "cuir de russie", perhaps? As leather scents go, I agree it's more traditionally "feminine" than "masculine" and I had no idea it was supposed to be a men's scent. It's still very leathery though, nothing like the insipid suede scents more commonly offered as feminine leather fragrances.

I'm not a big fan of leather fragrances, and Reve en Cuir is no exception to the rule. However it is an amazing fragrance for what it is. Reve en Cuir doesn't have that synthetic factory smell of a new leather jacket - it smells like real leather - slightly animalic leather with hints of vanilla sweetness. It seriously smells like they took an old and withered, perhaps over-worn and sweat-drenched leather belt, smeared a touch of vanilla on it, and then baked the whole thing in an oven.
There's a beautiful balance between the extremes of being slightly off-putting and comforting. In the same vein, Reve en Cuir is straddling perfectly between smelling like an old-school leather fragrance (ie. Bel Ami) and something more modern.

Although I love almost all of Francis Kurkdjian's work and I admire Reve en Cuir's ingredients and construction, it's just not for me. Maybe it's just too realistic. While I can't see myself wearing Reve en Cuir, I also can't deny the quality and blending here. I'm sure that many leather lovers will love it, and so I'll give it an unbiased rating.

9.5/10

Rêve en Cuir is stunning. To smell it is the equivalent of perusing the leather-bound, spices-filled cupboard of a James Beard award-winning chef. It's sexy and assured meets cozy and delectable. I'm enamored with it!

Now this is a leather I can wrap my head and heart around, though I totally understand how someone who loves Knize 10 would find it lacking! It's a gourmand, it's a leather, it's (almost) a skinscent! Reve en Cuir starts out smelling like new leather shoe laces that have been dipped in simple syrup. Somewhat transparent, it has no bitterness or tar at all. Soft as all get out in the opening, it proceeds to become more focused over the next hour or two. As it dries it becomes a little powdery and at the same time slightly caramelized. Vanilla is there, but definitely as background support. And all the while I detect a soft, buttery, young leather. After the first 2 hours the fragrance stays quite linear on my skin, and close, with very little sillage. As one who can't seem to get enough gourmands in my wardrobe, this is a beautiful fragrance that's a tiny bit out of my comfort zone, but still infinitely lovable. Hail Hail Francis K! Another must-have fragrance!

a dissappointing affair. so much hype behind this, so much price ($250) behind this.....and it just doesn't have the uniqueness, boldness, or structure to pull off any of it. this is a bakery-sweet light leather fragrance....far more feminine than masculine..the sweetness is pretty cloying, and the hint of leather just sort of lingers around like a refugee. This is a knockoff (a very expensive knockoff) version of Hermes Kelly Caleche, which is basically a better scent than this in every way.....FAIL!