Perfume Directory

RÍve en Cuir (2008)
by Indult


RÍve en Cuir information

Year of Launch2008
AvailabilityIn Production
Average Rating
(based on 32 votes)

People and companies

PerfumerFrancis Kurkdjian

About RÍve en Cuir

RÍve en Cuir is a masculine fragrance by Indult. The scent was launched in 2008 and the fragrance was created by perfumer Francis Kurkdjian

Reviews of RÍve en Cuir

Some notes are easier than others. Not to create, but to accept at face value. Vanilla is one. People recognize 'vanilla', whether it's a vanilla bean or ethyl vanillin. Synthetic vanilla aromachemicals are used because they smell Ďlikeí vanilla.

Leather requires a little more imagination. There are more links in the chain of associations that lead to the scent of leather. Itís not even strictly leather that we smell, itís the combination of the hides and the chemicals of the tanning process. The scent of leather is not one particular thing, but a range of tones in the spectrum of leather.

However a material is derived, if it smells Ďlikeí vanilla, it can be considered vanilla. Perfume composition relies on an olfactory algebra: let x = vanilla. Leather presents a more interesting premise to the perfumer. After a connection from A through Z is made, our neurology doesnít perceive the steps in a chain of associations, just the connection of A and Z. Whether we see the links or not, they are there for the perfumer to play with, making leather a playground of abstraction. Witness the birch tar leathers from early in the early 20th century, the inky synthetic leathers that followed and the range of floral and plastic leathers that came along as compositional rules loosened.

The goal of creating a leather perfume isnít emulation of leather, though perfume marketing has historically spun piles of bullshit about leather opera gloves, black leather corsets and the innards of Birkin bags. Leather is the inspiration, not the goal. There are as many strategies to composing a leather perfume as there are sub-genres. See: Vierges et Torerosís lucite leather. S-Exís subliminal musky leather. Azurťeís sizzling citrus leather. Bel Amiís gasoline leather. Cuir de Russieís iris leather. Cuir díAngeís herbal-soapy leather.

Reve en Cuirís approach isnít novel but it is effective. It creates a hissy topnote similar to the violet-leaf gasoline of Dior Fahrenheit and its predecessor, Bel Ami. The topnotes sharpen, coalescing into a cool, sweet, clove-like heart. Reve en Cuirís richness comes from intricacy and what it lacks in projection it makes up for in evolution and duration. It balances richness with precision editing and, though it smells like no particular leather object, it is perfectly coherent. Exemplary of Kurkdjianís best work, it isnít radical but it is inventive and intelligible.

17th May, 2015
Reve en Cuir opens with a load of cloves juxtaposed to sweet, tart notes of vanilla, citrus (not that ďcitricĒ, rather aromatic and plushy) and nutty-resinous cardamom. I donít get much oregano honestly, and I was intrigued by that as despite I love it, I rarely smell it in fragrances. But I do smell something more generically mossy-herbal, and also something somehow ďwoody-syrupyĒ if that makes sense, something like the cedar note in Lutensí CŤdre if you know the fragrance. Now, the contrast between the pungent sharpness of cloves and herbs, and the sweet-tart-nutty notes of vanilla, citrus and cardamom (and that sweet, cedar-like note), is not exactly the most pleasant clash around in my opinion: itís interesting at first, but soon a bit cloying to me. And overall that is my take on this scent, since it does not have much of an evolution; it has something that just does not work in my opinion. Itís not that pleasant, not particularly refined, not that deep or compelling, and on the other hand, not enough ďcreatively stinkyĒ to represent some sort of creative statement. Itís just... donít know, a ďmehĒ. The drydown would be nicer, if it was just a bit louder, while itís really close to skin. Sweet-woody-herbal cloves for hours, basically, with a warm and soft drydown; nothing bad, but nothing particularly remarkable either (especially for the price).

13th January, 2015
mspa Show all reviews
United States
one of the most mind blowing art-perfumes i have got a chance to sniff. basically a fusion of a subtle leather and a luxury spiced confectionery - two olfactory objects which on a first thought don't belong at all together, but the ingenious Kurkdjian managed to amalgam them, creating a masterwork in terms of both artistic originality and practical wearability.
patchouli gently lurks in background, together with all other notes perfectly blended in one stunningly impressive entity which lacks a sugary character, but remains dry and just subtly sweet.
for the time being, this scent is on top of my probably most favorite category: oriental semi-gourmands.
30th March, 2014
drseid Show all reviews
United States
Reve en Cuir opens with a mild clove and herb spiced cedar before transitioning to its middle. During the early heart the spiced cedar remains now joined by an emerging powdery vanilla rising from the base and a very subtle supporting suede accord. During the late dry-down the powdery vanilla dominates as the composition quickly fades. Projection is below average, as is longevity at 6-7 hours on skin.

I can only describe Reve en Cuir as a disappointment. It is disappointing because the suede leather is so subtle it gets overpowered (or should that be "over-powdered") by the vanilla base note which isn't that strong to begin with. Cedar is also detectable from the get-go, but this is not really the kind of cedar I enjoy, unfortunately, with its implementation strongly resembling pencil shavings. The whole thing comes off as way too introverted for my tastes; highly polished, but somehow missing heart and spunk. The bottom line is the $200 per 50ml bottle Reve en Cuir is a polished composition for sure though it comes off detached with wimpy performance, earning an "above average" to "good" rating of 2.5 to 3 stars out of 5. It is tough to recommend Reve en Cuir at its relatively lofty price point with the less costly Duchaufour composed Cuir de Nacre by Ann Gerard being a much better smelling and implemented alternative.
30th December, 2013
I think this fragrance is a modern masterpiece. Soft, kid leather cushioned in spices, the leather noticeable from the start, but never overwhelming.

This was one of five samples I got from LuckyScent a few years ago, and--along with Ourzazat by Comme de Garcon--by far my favorite. I checked back at their website recently and they no longer carry it, and I read somewhere that none of the Indult perfumes are in production any longer (what happened?). That means I'll be hunting this all over Ebay and Etsy soon.

This is the leather that made me want to study the "classic" leathers, Bandit, Cabochard, and Cuir de Russie. although from what I've read about them, I'll bet you'd find Reve en Cuir much more accessible.
20th August, 2012
I'm still not entirely sure about Francis Kurkdjian. His best works are weird hot messes that somehow, through either genius or blind luck, somehow prove to be intriguing and fun to wear (think A*Men...). Reve En Cuir is one of those strangely compelling messes.

Imagine a leather purse soaked in A*Men and then covered with lavender and an especially herbal licorice note, then dusted in mace and nutmeg and pie spices. As such, it's a particularly spicy gourmand patchouli more than a leather scent, but it's just out there enough to not smell like other gourmands (though it clearly contains the dominant dna of A*Men, New Haarlem, and other sweet patchouli/lavender scents).

I'm giving it a neutral rating simply because this isn't what I'm into, but Reve En Cuir is definitely interesting and well crafted, though I'm still unsure if it's accidental or not...
02nd January, 2012

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