Rêve en Cuir (2008)
by Indult

I'm still not entirely sure about Francis Kurkdjian. His best works are weird hot messes that somehow, through either genius or blind luck, somehow prove to be intriguing and fun to wear (think A*Men...). Reve En Cuir is one of those strangely compelling messes.

Imagine a leather purse soaked in A*Men and then covered with lavender and an especially herbal licorice note, then dusted in mace and nutmeg and pie spices. As such, it's a particularly spicy gourmand patchouli more than a leather scent, but it's just out there enough to not smell like other gourmands (though it clearly contains the dominant dna of A*Men, New Haarlem, and other sweet patchouli/lavender scents).

I'm giving it a neutral rating simply because this isn't what I'm into, but Reve En Cuir is definitely interesting and well crafted, though I'm still unsure if it's accidental or not...

2nd January, 2012.

Here's anther one who doesn't have the popularity it should deserve. Reve En Cuir is one of the most original interpretation of leather in years. A gourmandic oriental leather. Yes, it has some sweetness and an edible feel to it but at the same time it's "dangerous" and "mysterious", somehow "dusty". Kurkdjian has been able to successfully juxtapose to the classic french perfumery chrisms (luxury, refinement, elegance) a rebellious / unconventional vibe. Cuir En Reve smells exactly like a bearded biker having a coffee break in a cakeshop specialized in high confectionery and Kurkdjian's mastery made it looks (smell) so natural.

Don't get me wrong, CER is far from being overly sweet or cloying or even dirty, it is more of a subtle scent, rich but not overpowering. Its perfect balance between spices, patchouli and vanilla juxtaposed to a gentle leather note, woods and vetiver makes of it an incredibly satisfying compositions that's also very wearable.

Downside: extremely pricey.

25th September, 2011.

A very pure and true leather fragrance, though refined and never animalic. It starts out sweet and smooth like soft leather gloves or even suede, but turns a little drier and sharper (also more powdery) over time, resembling some rougher leather goods or old and cracked leather. The sweetness is still present at this stage but no longer seems like the sweetness of the leather itself, more like some added floral notes and there's also a distinct spiciness apart from the leather. A "cuir de russie", perhaps? As leather scents go, I agree it's more traditionally "feminine" than "masculine" and I had no idea it was supposed to be a men's scent. It's still very leathery though, nothing like the insipid suede scents more commonly offered as feminine leather fragrances.

25th November, 2009.

Rêve en Cuir is stunning. To smell it is the equivalent of perusing the leather-bound, spices-filled cupboard of a James Beard award-winning chef. It's sexy and assured meets cozy and delectable. I'm enamored with it!

1st September, 2009.

I'm not a big fan of leather fragrances, and Reve en Cuir is no exception to the rule. However it is an amazing fragrance for what it is. Reve en Cuir doesn't have that synthetic factory smell of a new leather jacket - it smells like real leather - slightly animalic leather with hints of vanilla sweetness. It seriously smells like they took an old and withered, perhaps over-worn and sweat-drenched leather belt, smeared a touch of vanilla on it, and then baked the whole thing in an oven.
There's a beautiful balance between the extremes of being slightly off-putting and comforting. In the same vein, Reve en Cuir is straddling perfectly between smelling like an old-school leather fragrance (ie. Bel Ami) and something more modern.

Although I love almost all of Francis Kurkdjian's work and I admire Reve en Cuir's ingredients and construction, it's just not for me. Maybe it's just too realistic. While I can't see myself wearing Reve en Cuir, I also can't deny the quality and blending here. I'm sure that many leather lovers will love it, and so I'll give it an unbiased rating.

9.5/10

13rd August, 2009. (Last Edited: 18th November, 2009.)

Now this is a leather I can wrap my head and heart around, though I totally understand how someone who loves Knize 10 would find it lacking! It's a gourmand, it's a leather, it's (almost) a skinscent! Reve en Cuir starts out smelling like new leather shoe laces that have been dipped in simple syrup. Somewhat transparent, it has no bitterness or tar at all. Soft as all get out in the opening, it proceeds to become more focused over the next hour or two. As it dries it becomes a little powdery and at the same time slightly caramelized. Vanilla is there, but definitely as background support. And all the while I detect a soft, buttery, young leather. After the first 2 hours the fragrance stays quite linear on my skin, and close, with very little sillage. As one who can't seem to get enough gourmands in my wardrobe, this is a beautiful fragrance that's a tiny bit out of my comfort zone, but still infinitely lovable. Hail Hail Francis K! Another must-have fragrance!

5th February, 2009.