I wanted to Profumum Ambra Aurea due the reception it's received online as well as the note listings, as well as the trend that amber and resins have become some my favorite notes in the last year or so, and it does not disappoint.
It's not the sweetest amber fragrance out that, rendered spicier by incense and myrrh, but mainly, it's just a mixture of these three notes per the breakdown. I get almost a psuedo fire note (as in By Kilian Light My Fire), hence classifying this as a wee bit spicy, not just balsamic and smoky. There's not much evolution, though it starts out a little sharper and dries down a little smoother, as one might expect.
Performance is strong, like most Profumum entries, at least affirming the $250-for-100ml price (available only at Luckyscent and Osswald in the US), so it's easier to stomach this as mainly a cold weather option for nights. It can work formally, and probably casually, though I doubt I'd wear it casually.
Definitely among the best amber-dominant fragrances I've ever tried, along the lines of Tom Ford Amber Absolute, By Kilian Amber Oud, Le Labo Benjoin 19, and Tauerville Amber Flash.
8 out of 10
Crikey, this stuff smells special. A glorious rich amber, almost incense, golden liquid notes drying down smoothly to a deep resinous scent that last ages even on my greedy skin. Profvmvm scents are wonderfully packaged too; you get a choice of splash or a sexy sprayer is also included, plus a mini aluminium funnel and roller bottle for travelling. Not cheap, but absolutely worth owning thanks to its stunning natural composition and strength (a few sprays should suffice even for a shameless oversprayer like me). The trick, of course, is finding the right occassion...
This is a warm amber. A vanilla maple syrup amber. It isn't sharp, almost a gourmand. It seems like a feminine fragrance, but is advertised as a unisex. I could pull this off if it was cold weather.
Pure, strong, very long lasting amber (not ambergris). If you're an amber fan, you should try this.
The notes can simply be stated as "amber" or broken down into the constituents of amber: vailla, benzoin, and labdanum. That pretty much sums up Ambra Aurea, with extreme projection and longevity.
If I ever have to wear Ambra Aurea, I would wear no more than one dab on the tip of my finger, otherwise I can see myself getting quite lethargic with a full spray.
Ambra Aurea opens with a bold, dry, classic, straightforward amber accord, with the same medicinal, slightly animalic and herbal aftertaste of Ambre Sultan, which however is more vibrant and complex – Ambra Aurea is instead more "monolithic", still fascinating in its way, and also bears a more camphor-salty-metallic vibe all over. Basically almost a dark chypre, dusty and gloomy, with a tasty base of myrrh and a slight boozy feel too. The incense note emerges slowly, and it's clearly, and sadly, a synthetic, Iso-E/ambroxan-driven note, which ruins a bit the general mood of the scent – it all gets cleaner, plainer, more artificial and dull. Still pleasant overall, quite short longevity, with an illusory opening quite better than the evolution. Amber is quite a "tricky" territory for me, as when it comes to give my opinion on amber fragrances, I tend to compare all of them to my "sacred triad" of ambers – Ambre Sultan, Ambre Precieux, Ambre Russe. I have not found a fourth one yet with "that something" that makes it stand it near those. Some are "almost" that good, this one sure is not, it's barely nice and decently done. By the way, not sure if my sample was corrupted, but the juice was quite dense and it stained my shirt – beware.
09th June, 2014 (last edited: 26th June, 2014)