Vanitas (2008)
by Profumum

Vanitas is, hands down, my favourite Profumum Roma release. No, it’s not completely an original take on vanilla and nor does it take any risks but it’s the most satisfying straight forward vanilla fragrance I’ve come across (and I’ve tried a fair few of them).

My all time favourite vanilla fragrance will always be Guerlain’s Spiritueuse Double Vanille, without a doubt. However, while I find its boozy vanilla amazing, there are times when I long for a really creamy vanilla scent. I was hoping that Serge Lutens’ Un Bois Vanille would serve my needs but the coconut accord, burnt sugar note and unnecessarily heavy vanilla completely spoilt it for me (and it also didn’t last that long on my skin). Vanitas, while a blatant rip-off, manages to address all the aspects that I disliked so much about Un Bois Vanille and actually improve on it. Copying from such a prestigious house is no easy feat but Profumum Roma has managed to succeed with flying colours.

Vanitas is pretty much a linear scent (like Un Bois Vanille) but the vanilla, although rich, is not too creamy or overly sweet. Instead of coconut, myrrh and orange flower accords are employed instead. Personally, I really couldn’t detect them but maybe that’s a good indication of the high level of blending in the composition. As for the woods, once again, the effects are subtle and not as obvious as Serge Lutens’ effort, with a faint sandalwood accord being detected during the drydown.

It’s long-lasting and gives off marvelous sillage, and while its retail price is prohibitive I am seriously considering getting a bottle of this stuff (even if 50ml would have been more than sufficient). Profumum Roma may not be a house interested in pushing the envelope of perfumery but, when this house succeeds in releasing its own interpretation of an existing perfume, it has the knack of doing it extremely well.

Excellent!

[Original submission date: 01 March 2009]

Wow. I can't put it much better than Trebor.

Vanitas is one of my favorites from Profumum. It's a light, sweet vanilla that has great longevity and sillage. I haven't tried Guerlain's SDV yet, though I have tried Tom Ford's Tobacco Vanille. TV is a different animal entirely - much more heavy.

My only gripe (I won't bring price into this) is that the florals in Vanitas make it a bit uncomfortable for me to wear. These are extremely subtle, though, and this is certainly a unisex fragrance. Maybe it's my skin.. perhaps it's the fact I totally love Tobacco Vanille... I look forward to trying SDV, but in the meantime I can say that Vanitas is something anybody who likes vanilla *MUST* try.