The opening of Underworld is bombastic: vetiver, clove, cinnamon, pepper, more clove, coffee, sandalwood, additional clove, all hitting you at high levels. Frankly, itís overwhelming and the clove is cranked way, way too high. It doesnít take long for things to mellow out a tad, but what Underworld becomes is pretty much clove over a kind of leathery note. Take some of the more extreme Le Labo scents like Cuir 28 or Gaiac 10 and replace most of the ingredients with clove and youíll get the picture. Quite extreme and certainly vivid, but itís mainly clove.
Itís not as strong as Yatagan but its spices remind me of it. It settles on your skin as a kind of spicy cognac with a little bit of cinnamon or something Christmassy in the mix. Thereís some cedar in present as well, but itís predominantly spices, and my skin amps that Ė spices of the wormwood or bitter variety. So itís nice for the first two hours or so, but then the bitterness eventually dominates Ė not in a wholly unpleasing way. It annoys the back of my throat somewhat. In the end it wasn't horrible and it wasn't great, so I dumped it.
UNDERWORLD has a gothic name and the fragrance doesn't betray the tone of its name. This is a dark but complicated vetiver fragrance. As vetiver fragrances go it contains another layer by the addition of florals and gourmand spice notes and this density of smells will probably not appeal to everyone. The fragrance is sweetened and made lively by ginger lilly, jasmine and vanilla. The spice variety along with coffee and cocoa adds a depth of flavor without really venturing too far into gourmand territory but takes it more into darkness of the cocoa and coffee. The oud tincture and rose leather contribute to the depth and darkness of the vetiver base. This fragrance is available only in absolute form so a couple dots of this oil strategically placed works nicely to put you into a very pleasantly green and darkly alive Underworld. This fragrance is a hidden gem for vetiver lovers.
Notes include: a variety of vetivers, cinnamon, ginger lilly, clove, jasmine, coffee, cocoa, rose leather, balsam, vanilla and oud tincture.