La Petite Robe Noire (2009)
by Guerlain

La Petit Robe Noir is a bizarre fragrance in that its name - and associate image - is completely divergent from the fragrance itself. One would expect a classy, sophisticated and sexy fragrance. Instead LPRN is a loud, brash fragrance very much in line with the 'vulgar' fragrances Guerlain has been releasing lately.

Reading the list of notes - and knowing a little Guerlain - one can almost put the fragrance together in your head... a cheery sweet citrus/rose topnote accord that gives way to a darker, mellow tea/anise heart and eventually a Guerlain base, perhaps accented by almond such as the base found in 180 Ans de Creation. If this is what you think LPRN is, which is what I thought, you would be 100% wrong just like I was.

Instead LPRN starts off with the loudest cherry/rose ever used in perfumery. It is exceedingly bright, cheery, and strong. It's not sugar sweet like Insolence, but nor is it tempered by the 'hairspray' note either. A touch of lemon pokes out from under the cherry, giving a little sharpness to the topnotes. There is some similarity to Guerlain's Nuit d'Amour, but those fruity/rose topnotes weren't nearly as brash or loud. Unlike some people, these topnotes have not yet turned me off - especially because I thought I knew what was coming from the composition... now when does that tea and licorice kick in......?

If the composition developed as anticipated the cherry/rose would be a fun and loud opening to an interesting fragrance (much the way a loud peach topnote is used in Guerlain's Chypre Fatale). Unfortunately the rest of the fragrance never comes.... I never smell any of the published notes. In fact, I really never smell any other notes, not even the expected Guerlinade base that may have salvaged this fragrance. LPRN ends up just being a loud fruity floral, and if it weren't for the quality of the materials used in the cherry/rose this may just be counted among typical designer fruity florals of little consequence. It is the last fragrance I would think of as being associated with a little black dress, unless that dress is being worn at a college semi-formal.

If what I've said has been overly harsh it is because I am disappointed at LPRN's lack of structure. However all is not lost with LPRN, because the cherry/rose itself is absolutely a ton of fun (and much better then the cherry/champagne accord found in Etat Libre's Bendelirious). When I'm looking for something sweet and fun - often in the morning before going to the gym - I'll blast myself with a couple big sprays to the neck and enjoy. As a serious fragrance or a full daily wear I avoid LPRN. Turin wrote in his book (of Insolence EdP, I believe) that Guerlain 'does vulgar' very well, and that's just what LPRN is.

The first rush is of juicy red and purple fruits, contrasting with crushed green stems and leaves. The sweet almond essence of macaroons fills the nose and la petite robe noir immediately feels vibrant, friendly and exciting. To me, it strongly conjured an image of meeting girlfriends for afternoon tea - perhaps moving on to a noisy hen-party!

I wanted to breathe this in deeply and slowly, could imagine myself having fun with it throughout the summer, and seriously considered parting with £75 (yes, £75!) for a bottle.

Luckily, I resisted the impulse. Drying down, the ripening fragrance started to assert itself too strongly and far too sweetly for my taste. An hour later, it had developed into a cloying blend of strawberry shortcake and boiled cherry sweets which I felt compelled to wash off.

I had anticipated an assured and sophisticated little black dress - a 'grown-up' number that you can slip into time after time, with some high black courts. To my untrained nose, this was an over-priced and flirty Temperley frock, to go with kitten heels. Too unrestrained and 'cute' for me, but maybe I could loosen up a little and learn to enjoy it?!