Un Matin d'Orage (2009)
by Annick Goutal

Un Matin d'Orage is one of those really feminine and dewy white floral scents. It reminds me a little of Kai, however this fragrance is much lighter and more green.

This fragrance is most likely going to appeal to those that enjoyed Songes and Le Jasmin. The dominant gardenia note, while crisp in the opening, especially when alongside the citrus, becomes creamier and buttery towards the heart.

The gardenia and the other floral accords in this composition, smell very naturalistic. One can imagine an exact replicate of this scent in a luscious, Spring garden.

Un Matin d'Orage can sometimes be a little too one-dimensional, especially since it doesn't develop too well. The lasting power is also very fleeting which is another slight disappointment.

In the drydown, it becomes increasingly soapy. Not to an extent that it's unlikable, however it does resemble a somewhat generic bar of sweet gardenia soap.

While I do honestly like this fragrance, I would have aimed to improve it by making it longer lasting and perhaps more green.

25th November, 2011.

I get pretty much of a strident green note in the opening – it is not so much of a disagreeable note as it is lacking in finesse and subtlety. I am somewhat shocked at the intensity / commonness of the opening because it immediately strikes me as drugstore quality and even a bit vulgar – not at all what expect from an Annick Goutal fragrance. The intensity of the sillage of the green note is reduced rather quickly, but my lack of appreciation for it remains. Un Matin d'Orage is linear and… well… boring. I’m not sure how long this linearity lasts because I lose interest. Nowhere in the fragrance do I identify the florals… oh, they’re there somewhere in the mix, but I am pretty much overwhelmed by green. When my interest is finally piqued toward the end of the fragrance’s movement, I get the feeling of being in the presence of the shiso note which gives it a foody tinge to the green – in the last several minutes of the fragrance, it finally gets interesting, but it is too little too late.

13rd May, 2011.

This certainly seems to be a love-it-or-hate-it fragrance! Perhaps it's one of those that are prone to behaving very differently on different people's skin. Luckily for me l am one of those on whom it works beautifully. This is my absolute favourite of the Goutals that l've tried; a limpid, cool, perfect evocation of a flower garden after the rain. l can't really pick out individual notes here, but on my skin this behaves very much like Carnal Flower; fresh blooms with a touch of green from the leaves & stems, moist & clean, not dirty at all. My only complaint is that, like other Goutals, the longevity is somewhat lacking on me. But l do love this, & had l never smelled Carnal Flower, it would be on my wishlist.

8th February, 2011.

This is the most realistic gardenia scent I have ever encountered. A dry, gentle lightly powdery green gardenia that instantly takes me to a greenhouse or steamy tropical setting. It is supposed to be about a Japanese garden after a storm. I wouldn't know about that. I don't think they are big on gardenias. Bonsai trees, evergreens & sculptural elements as I understand. Nevertheless, it is a gorgeous hothouse experience and I have never enjoyed a gardenia scent before this. In fact, I usually avoid them. They are always too synthetic, overbearing & sweet for me. If you love the real thing, heightened with some dry powder for longevity, this is quite lovely. Perfect for spring. A good wedding scent, too.

27th January, 2011.

The earthy funk of shiso dominates Un Matin d’Orage’s moist, green top notes, joined soon after by a gardenia reconstruction that’s paradoxically both soapy and indolic. An impression of damp soil remains in place atop the fleshy floral accord, which slowly unravels to reveal components of stemmy green narcissus and ylang-ylang.

Unfortunately, the floral notes become harsh and chemical in the second hour, and I find the mix of sour, musty florals and laundry detergent musk in the drydown uncomfortable in the extreme. Un Matin d’Orage remains potent for hours, which only exacerbates my discomfort. The fragrance exhausts all the olfactory capital developed in its early stages long before it fades, and I find myself anticipating its departure eagerly. Oddly enough, Un Matin d’Orage is better on paper, where its floral heart smells sweeter and softer and retains its integrity far longer.

21st July, 2010.

I want to like it, initially it smells crisp but the drydown leaves me with nothing but a sharp laundry detergent scent.

6th September, 2009.