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Guerlain Mitsouko Fleur de Lotus EDP
One thing is definite--Mitsouko Fleur de Lotus smells irrevocably like a tweaked variation of the original Mitsouko. It has lemon and bergamot top notes, nutty vetiver, light peach, medicinal herb notes, and a faintly amber-ish base. When I smell the two side-by-side, they are unmistakably related, at least in the early stages. After the initial development, MFdL starts to diverge from its namesake, becoming more soapy, watery and "clean", while Mitsouko continues to be heavier, maintaining the slightly grubby moss tinge that most of us know and love. In the late drydown, there are whisps of faint leather, light vanilla and white musk. I was prepared to intensely dislike MFdL, especially given that other "light and fresh" flankers such as Chanel Cristalle Eau Verte and Guerlain's own Eau de Shalimar fell terribly short of the mark for me. In fact, I really like Mitsouko Fleur de Lotus! I sometimes find the original to be difficult to wear, and MFdL softens the angular and abrasive features of Mitsouko into a somewhat sweet, airy, but still quite sincere and serious composition. Unfortunately, sillage and longevity are abysmal, even for what is advertised to be EDP strength. Regardless, I'd love to wear this lavishly in the warmer months.
29 November, 2009