Private Collection Jasmine White Moss (2009)
by Estée Lauder

Estee Lauder Private Collection Jasmine White Moss

The banning of oakmoss as an ingredient is creating some interesting by-products as perfumers try to compose chypres without using the out of favor ingredient. This is leading to a renaissance of chypres being composed as the creativity of these artists is being challenged. One of the latest and best examples of this trend is the third release in the Estee Lauder Private Collection, Jasmine White Moss. This 2009 release is, according to the press materials, a co-creation of Estee Lauder who had been working on this in the 80's and it was re-discovered and finished by her granddaughter Aerin Lauder. I think this explains the feel of Jasmine White Moss as a cross between a strong floral 80's scent and a cleaner more modern 21st century creation. The top of this does go on with a huge floral bang reminiscent of that 80's style. What is nice is where one of those 80's powerhouses would have kept you encircled in that floral cloud; Jasmine White Moss allows the sun to shine in a bit and break up the floral fog. What shines in is what is called in the notes, White Moss Mist. I'm not sure if I know what that is but to my nose it smells like clean fresh oakmoss right out of the package. What that means is this accord has the ability to add some of the depth of oakmoss without some of the funkier aspects that go along with it. It feels like those elements have been left behind in the chemistry behind composing a replacement for it. That doesn't make it smell bad it makes it smell different like a fresh version of oakmoss and in Jasmine White moss it creates a brightness in the heart which I find captivating. Jasmine White Moss stays firmly floral and white moss for most of its development. I get some patchouli and vetiver very late in the drydown but this scent is very much what it says on the bottle. Jasmine White Moss has above average longevity and above average projection. They say necessity is the mother of invention, in this case it looks like Estee Lauder might have been the grandmother of invention for Aerin Lauder and the invention they created is quite beautiful.

The top notes are rather bright, aldehydic, and citrussy, backed by a vaguely "fresh" accord that persists through the fragrance. In the heart and base it takes on a certain sweet mustiness; not quite floral, and certainly not natural, with a sharp, soapy, chlorinated edge. I've tried this three times now, actively trying to like it - or at least smell what the previous reviewers smelled - to no avail.

If this is the moss of the future, then count me out of the chypre genre. It's not even a case of authentic versus synthetic... It's like being fed packing peanuts as opposed to the real thing. As for jasmine, it's simply not there.

An utter failure.

If you like classic floral chypres, you must give Jasmine White Moss a try. I can't talk about its development any further than Asha has already done. It's a truly lovely fragrance, perfectly balanced and blended - retro, yet very wearable. Having said that, though, there's something slightly staid about it, to my nose, that is just barely rescued by its succulence. I'm so glad to have had the opportunity to try it, and I'm thrilled to think that this type of chypre is being created again. Will I purchase? I don't know, probably not. I'm still partial to Pucci Vivara as a friendlier, sunnier, green floral. Just my preference. This one is gorgeous, though!

Estee Lauder Private Collection Jasmine White Moss EDP

Notes: Black Currant Bud Absolute, Galbanum Absolute, Bergamot Absolute, Aerin's Jasmine Sambac Absolute, Estée's Ylang Ylang Absolute, Estée's Jasmine Absolute, Violet, Orange Flower Absolute, Orris, Patchouli Heart Absolute, Vetiver Absolute, White Moss Mist Absolute (an Estée Lauder exclusive) (From the Estee Lauder web site)

The notes list is a green floral chypre lover's dream, and this fragrance truly delivers. The top notes start with bright citrus and galbanum, a combination of stem and fruit. The citrus is not especially juicy, rather, it gives a fresh, sunny effect. The galbanum is not overly bitter or strong, and has somewhat of a grassy smell. There is a urinous edge to the top notes, probably from the black currant bud. It does not offend, though, and ends up being more of a support note to evoke the softly indolic florals to come. Soon after application, a Diorella-like overripe melon note emerges. The meaty quality of the melon note is quite a bit more subdued than in Diorella, and is also not nearly as deep. Along with the overripe melon, a beautiful star jasmine comes forth. I am not sure I have ever smelled a Jasmine fragrance that truly captures the scent of the blossoms from a living star jasmine plant, so I find this quality extremely enticing. Star jasmine has a heavenly odor, and to capture it in a fragrance that can be enjoyed even when the blossoms are out of season is impressive.

The mid notes carry the overripe fruit and jasmine, and are joined by some moss and powder. This is a lovely direction for the fragrance to take as the powder note brings a little bit of sweetness to the already ethereal greens and white florals. I imagine there must be some vanilla here, although it is not listed. The Jasmine stays heady but fresh, and never takes on a rotten tone as some jasmine absolutes do. The drydown is not overly herbal, in fact, I can't really discern any vetiver per se. To my nose, the base seems to be about orris, subtle moss, vanilla and maybe some light resins such as benzoin. Projection is moderate, and longevity is good--a liberal morning application lasted well into the afternoon, and the scent lasted 24 hours on paper. This fragrance is a must try for fans of Chanel Cristalle, Parfums de Nicolai Le Temps d'une Fete, L de Lubin, Dior Eau Sauvage and already mentioned, Diorella. While it does not capture my heart in the same way that Le Temps d'une Fete or Diorella does, I find that JWM outperforms Cristalle EDT/EDP and Eau Sauvage for longevity. Compositionally it develops with grace and ease, unlike the re-release of L de Lubin.