L'Instant de Guerlain Pour Homme Extreme (2005)
by Guerlain

Count me among those who like the original but not enough to own it. The EdP however, is a favorite. The citrus from the original is condensed into a tiny moment of tartness that recedes within the first few minutes. From the first moment L'Instant Extreme blasts you with a powdery cocoa, vanilla, anise, and subtle woody notes. I suspect some heliotrope and perhaps even some iris underpinning the composition based on the powderiness and the light subtle florals that fill out the fragrance. As other reviewers have notes, this fragrance is wonderful study in balance between bitter and sweet gourmand notes. The woody notes keep L'Instant EdP from ever being too foody or a full-blown gourmand. Sillage and longevity are fantastic.

With respect to Guerlain, I see L'Instant as foreshadowing the gourmand/floral style that has become the trademark of the current Guerlain fragrances released after Jean-Paul's retirement. Playing off the traditional Guerlinade, this new generation of fragrances (Quand Vient la Pluie, Cuir Beluga, Iris Ganache, etc.) use the vanilla/heliotrope to full effect balanced against other notes and accords. They are half gourmand and half something else. L'Instant - and the EdP in particular - were among the first of this generation of fragrances. I would be remiss not at least briefly mentioning the comparison to Dior Homme (especially the EdP). Yes, they both use cocoa, vanilla, and iris. Yes, they are both masculine gourmands. However, for some reason the two fragrances are different enough - perhaps the leather in Dior Homme - to not duplicate each other at all.

According to the 2008 Guerlain catalog L'Instant Extreme EdP was still in production. As of spring 2009 it was not available at the exclusive US outlets such as Bergdorfs. I don't know whether it's still available from La Maison, but it does make the occasional appearance on eBay and through random online retailers. I suggest grabbing a bottle if you're a fan of Guerlain and/or masculine gourmands. You won't regret it.

L'Instant PH Extreme? It's a work of art and one of the easiest fragrances to wear. I believe it to be utterly masculine and fairly conservative, though that shouldn't be a barrier for folks who don't like those genres.

You'll find many people reviewing the Extreme version (EDP) in the L'Instant de Guerlain Pour Homme (EDT). The sillage is about the same on both, though the longevity of the Extreme is spectacular. I also agree that there is less focus on citrus in the Extreme and more on the warm, woody notes - cocoa, sandalwood, etc.

I own both the original and the Extreme, as I find the differences substantial enough to justify both. It wasn't too difficult for me to find it. My only one small gripe is that the sillage on both L'Instant PH (EDT) and L'Instant PH Extreme (EDP) isn't breathtaking. But that is easily forgiven. Spectacular.

Edit: I did not see there were 2 others who had submitted reviews before me. My apologies to these members!

more than a simple concentrated version of the eau de toilette, this eau extreme is wonderful mix of bitterness and sweetness, with a strong cocoa note
a gourmand woody oriental

very powerful, enormous sillage and staying power

I own both this and the EDT. The EDT was my first introduction to this lovely juice. A beautiful understated gourmand fragrance. Rather like a crystal it has many facets that eventually blend into a glorious whole.

The EDP builds on this. The opening citrus is so fleeting it is hardly there, just a whisper. Instead there is more of a chocolate/liquorice note that just keeps evolving and envelops your body is a haze of loveliness. One of my top 5 fragrances, my number 2 actually.

Not that easy to obtain. A friend picked my bottle up in Gibraltar of all places. Seek it out. You wont be disappointed.