L'Instant de Guerlain pour Homme Extrême / Eau de Parfum (2005)
by Guerlain

A deeper and more powerful version of the original but not necessarily better, just an alternative season style ..if I had to choose one winter fragrance then this would surely be one I'd consider. The overall feel of the fragrance is very enjoyable to wear in most situations..I wore this to a wedding and received many compliments, I wore it to work and received a compliment. It's very patchouli and chocolate driven but not in a gourmand way, more a cocoa powder and earthy way. The concept and artistry within L'Instant de Guerlain is something truelly special, what a shame they ditched the original art deco bottle that complimented the fragrance.

L'Instant pour Gourmet
At the crossroad of senses,
Confectionism.

Have you ever wanted to smell like an old powdery grandma that's been baking a chocolate cake? If so then this fragrance is for you.

Absolutely horrible, extremely feminine, and one of the worst fragrances I've ever tried.

Didn't think I had much to add to the overwhelming positive reception of this Basenotes Favourite. However. If you are glossing over reviews or taking forum advice you might erroneously come to believe you're dealing with a cartoonish (Terry's) chocolate-orange gourmandish fragrance. That common narrative does an injustice to the fragrance.

The first point to stress is that this is a CHALLENGING fragrance. Its not necessarily going to solicit compliments. You may need a certain amount of 'don't-giving-a-crap' to carry it off. This challenging aspect has a lot to do with the strong anise twist that is present from the start, and kind of dirty dry-down. It comes off at-least as challenging as many niche releases, Le Labos, L'Artisans etc. If this great scent is too challenging just drop the extreme and go with regular LIDG.

The Extreme kind of starts its journey where regular LIDG ends. A very brief opening is green and vaguely citrus. This fresh green foliage is quickly joined by patchouli and anise which dominates in the heat. I believe the powdery patchouli combined with grapefruit type sharp-green citrus is what tricks peoples noses into 'reading' a quality raw cacao type dustiness. At this stage the fragrance is quite formal and mature.

Into the midsection. The green citrus has inevitably gone whilst the patchouli and anise burn strong. This is where the fragrance earns its 'extreme' tag. Its seems to intensify with time and with body heat. A little dirty vanilla begins to appear adding to a boozy-gourmand quality. No obvious woods or florals - although there could be a bit of Iris in the mix.

Fast forward to the dry down - and it's a long unfolding journey. We have the dirtied vanilla, slightly sweet tonka and persistent powdery patchouli. I guess this is a derivation of the famed Guerlainade accord (I get something similar from Heritage). Its a classy well-rounded end-point to the journey.

Overall - a challenge, but stick with it. its worth the wait when in clicks. Not the most versatile fragrance, but something this unique and creative seldom is! Truly deserving its extreme tag, and may leave you feeling like you've had too much of a good thing - can easily be detected on clothing the morning after.
85/100

I really wanted to like this fragrance. Alas, it was just not for me.