Aziyadé’s spiced citrus opening is so very lovely that a lasting composition based solely upon it would be worth the price of a bottle. Alas, the initial gesture is short-lived, and a boozy, syrupy dried fruit accord is quick to join the citrus and spices. Its weight sends Aziyadé plummeting down to earth and aligns it closely with Feminité du Bois, Donna Karan’s Chaos, and several entries in the Serge Lutens line, though Aziyadé does remain a brighter and more transparent composition than any of these predecessors. The abundance of fruit and spices leaves Aziyadé smelling quite “foody” to me, despite a subtle frankincense note that flits in and out of the background.
Prominent vanilla base notes add to the comestible impression, and Aziyadé spends several hours in familiar oriental spiced Christmas pudding territory. The drydown is a vanillic sweet amber with a generous dose of animalic labdanum, which while pleasant and natural smelling, is also fairly flat and ordinary. I want to like Aziyadé better than I do, but ironically enough the beauty of its top notes works against it, making the remainder of the scent seem impoverished in its mere adequacy.
Fruity, exotic, edible opening of sweet orange hardcandy, with a round, resinous caramel base. Sweet, but very balanced and dry – no "liquid", cloying milky sweetness. The main note is a juicy, dense, spicy fruity-floral note, like in Lutens' Arabie but less opulent, more balanced, still rich but not "that" rich and syrupy. Gradually a beautiful woody/balsamic accord with fir balsam and tobacco notes comes up, you also feel the spicy note and a patchouli vibe. All works with flawless harmony like a well-executed opera concert, all components are alive, dynamic, bright and vibrant. The tobacco note is subtle and silky, dusty and powdery like pipe tobacco, really elegant and discreet, keeping the scent earthy together with patchouli. The fruity-floral accord never fades out completely, so the composition is constantly freshened with this uplifting springy feel, keeping it lively and juicy without becoming syrupy or sticky (which is good). Must admit I personally like this, although I am not a fan of this type of spicy-resinous-candied notes, but the composition here is just brilliant; the only "cons" are the fact that the drydown is quite subtle, light and a bit generic on the synthetic side (but pleasant, and persistent), and that of course you have to "really like" the resinous-fruity-balsamic accord, otherwise it can become boring and cloying quite quickly.
22nd April, 2014 (last edited: 09th November, 2014)
Totally exotic fragrance with a big dose of plum with dates and fruits. Within this mix is a touch of cumin giving the scent a slight dirty body odour scent mixing in with the fruits.
There is a lot going on within this composition with hints of ginger, patchouli and other notes all vying for your attention.
All in all if you like exotic fruity scents that is complex and interesting then check this one out.
Bubblegum! After an initial blast of fresh fruit (I get apple) it settles into a delicious spicy-sweet gourmand that smells to me like classic pink bubblegum. The combination of cinnamon, cloves, orange, something floral (ylang?) and something cool and glassy (wintergreen?) is intoxicating. I didn't think I liked sweet scents, but I seem to be discovering more that I enjoy lately. What makes this one work is the resinous incense, cistus and spicy-sour cumin that keep it warm without being cloying. I don't have a B.O. association with cumin, however. To me it's invigoratingly herbal-bitter-spicy in the same way celery is, not sour like unwashed armpit. Others feel differently.
What an extraordinary perfume! Maybe I'm just demonstrating my ignorance of the amber/woody/oriental genre here, since it's not my favourite, but I was sent a sample of Aziyade along with my order of N'Aimez Que Moi from Les Senteurs, and it astonished me. I liked the opening blast best, with its strong lemon-grass, cumin, cardamom and apple puree melange, the effect Luca Turin calls "Persian dessert". I think he's exactly right. I love Middle Eastern food and cook a lot of Persian, Moroccan, Israeli and Lebanese dishes; Aziyade reminds me of how my kitchen - and hands - smell after concocting a tagine or khoresh. Mouth-wateringly lovely!! Not sure I'd actually want to wear it, as I don't want to smell like a walking entree, but I do like it very much for occasional, discreet, wear around the house. Especially when I'm hungry for exotic cuisine.
The drydown became quite linear and boring, with something quite bitter predominating. I spritzed on some Rose Absolue to soften the edges, and yes, a Persian dessert emerged!