Parfum d'Empire Aziyade is a fantastic Corticchiato's spicy-oriental with a sort of aromatic-resinous (vaguely boozy-mentholated, coconutty and tobacco veined) initial plummines leaning over the side of the "Indie accords" a la Slumberhouse's (Jeke and Baque jump partially on mind for instance) or of several House of Matriarch's (vaguely also scents a la Idole de Lubin, Lutens Fille en Aiguille, Arabie or Histoires de parfums 1740 jump vaguely on mind for several of their characteristics). The opening is really spicy, almondy-gingery and intoxicating. I detect a central accord of yummy spices, almonds, plum/peaches, dry tobacco, aromatic herbs, orange blossoms and resins (fir resins and a touch of frankincense), may be exotic ylang-ylang too which represents the oriental backbone of this really aromatic concoction. The connection between almond and aromatic spices (cumin and ginger in particular) arouses a sort of minty piquant undertone in the air. I detect also a connection of mysterious floral notes (violet leaves, neroli?) and (apparently) red berries (probably the pomegranate's effect) in a sort of olfactory sodality which anyway is not enough to exhume the far superior (drier, more classically sophisticated, musky and subtle) Femite du Bois. This Parfum d'Empire's fragrance is indeed more properly "wild", "yippie" and crude imo to be compared to such a classic Shiseido's giant, the cumin "gassiness" is in here really powerful, the fruitiness central (and not accessorial for the floral-musky notes as in the even fruity Feminite du Bois) and the resins influence is impressive. Anyway, the final vanilla is well calibrated while musk and may be opoponax settle down the basic sticky texture of this "greedy" aroma (it seems finally to be dealing with a sort of really spicy caramellous accord of nutmeg, cinnamon, dark/red fruits jam and "candied glue"). I detect in the final phase the Coca Cola's vibe cause the connections of fruits, dark patchouli, resins and spices enhances effectively that sort of dark pungent/sweet plummines (which in this case is anyway denser and more rounded). Anyway I appreciate a sort of really carnal warmth exuding from this really sensual aroma and a final floral-woody spark (sandalwood ?) providing a touch of more traditional "european" subtle texture. The oriental dry down is more "tamed down" and light in a way it smells more balanced, confortable and wearable. In this final stage the resinous presence is less dense and a frankincense's vibe is more plain and notable. Another great job for Parfum d'Empire by the talented Corticchiato.
23rd March, 2015 (last edited: 05th May, 2015)
Aziyadé’s spiced citrus opening is so very lovely that a lasting composition based solely upon it would be worth the price of a bottle. Alas, the initial gesture is short-lived, and a boozy, syrupy dried fruit accord is quick to join the citrus and spices. Its weight sends Aziyadé plummeting down to earth and aligns it closely with Feminité du Bois, Donna Karan’s Chaos, and several entries in the Serge Lutens line, though Aziyadé does remain a brighter and more transparent composition than any of these predecessors. The abundance of fruit and spices leaves Aziyadé smelling quite “foody” to me, despite a subtle frankincense note that flits in and out of the background.
Prominent vanilla base notes add to the comestible impression, and Aziyadé spends several hours in familiar oriental spiced Christmas pudding territory. The drydown is a vanillic sweet amber with a generous dose of animalic labdanum, which while pleasant and natural smelling, is also fairly flat and ordinary. I want to like Aziyadé better than I do, but ironically enough the beauty of its top notes works against it, making the remainder of the scent seem impoverished in its mere adequacy.
Fruity, exotic, edible opening of sweet orange hardcandy, with a round, resinous caramel base. Sweet, but very balanced and dry – no "liquid", cloying milky sweetness. The main note is a juicy, dense, spicy fruity-floral note, like in Lutens' Arabie but less opulent, more balanced, still rich but not "that" rich and syrupy. Gradually a beautiful woody/balsamic accord with fir balsam and tobacco notes comes up, you also feel the spicy note and a patchouli vibe. All works with flawless harmony like a well-executed opera concert, all components are alive, dynamic, bright and vibrant. The tobacco note is subtle and silky, dusty and powdery like pipe tobacco, really elegant and discreet, keeping the scent earthy together with patchouli. The fruity-floral accord never fades out completely, so the composition is constantly freshened with this uplifting springy feel, keeping it lively and juicy without becoming syrupy or sticky (which is good). Must admit I personally like this, although I am not a fan of this type of spicy-resinous-candied notes, but the composition here is just brilliant; the only "cons" are the fact that the drydown is quite subtle, light and a bit generic on the synthetic side (but pleasant, and persistent), and that of course you have to "really like" the resinous-fruity-balsamic accord, otherwise it can become boring and cloying quite quickly.
22nd April, 2014 (last edited: 09th November, 2014)
Totally exotic fragrance with a big dose of plum with dates and fruits. Within this mix is a touch of cumin giving the scent a slight dirty body odour scent mixing in with the fruits.
There is a lot going on within this composition with hints of ginger, patchouli and other notes all vying for your attention.
All in all if you like exotic fruity scents that is complex and interesting then check this one out.
Bubblegum! After an initial blast of fresh fruit (I get apple) it settles into a delicious spicy-sweet gourmand that smells to me like classic pink bubblegum. The combination of cinnamon, cloves, orange, something floral (ylang?) and something cool and glassy (wintergreen?) is intoxicating. I didn't think I liked sweet scents, but I seem to be discovering more that I enjoy lately. What makes this one work is the resinous incense, cistus and spicy-sour cumin that keep it warm without being cloying. I don't have a B.O. association with cumin, however. To me it's invigoratingly herbal-bitter-spicy in the same way celery is, not sour like unwashed armpit. Others feel differently.