
After trying all the perfume extrait samples by Farmacia SS. Annunziata, I was left quite bewildered rather than amazed (and it was the latter I was dearly hoping for). It’s not so much that only one out of the three releases has any noticeable longevity on my skin (i.e. this one) but more to do with an acute sense of been there done that – but solely with other Italian niche houses.
Maybe I’m getting a bit paranoid but, at this point in my exploration of Italian niche perfumery, I’m getting the distinct impression that most of these houses are… well, plagiarising each other. And even if this wasn’t completely the case, they definitely seem to be copying each other from a similar conceptual angle.
So, you still don’t believe me? Okay, well answer this question:
Name three notes (or note themes), which Italian niche perfumery seems currently obsessed with?
Okay, so are your answers similar to the dominant notes used in the Farmacia SS. Annunziata perfume extraits (i.e. amber, vanilla and patchouli)? I’m pretty sure you guessed at least two of them correctly…
If Farmacia SS. Annunziata has achieved anything, it has been to re-awaken my weariness of Italian perfumery. As for Vaniglia del Madagascar, this smells at least 99% identical to Profumum Roma’s Vanitas. Now, I’m not accusing Farmacia SS. Annunziata of copying Profumum Roma, since I have no idea which one came out first, but you’d have to be either suffering from OCD or a complete vanilla freak to own both of these.
Looking at the note pyramids of both (which isn’t really saying much) the main difference between them is more in the drydown – Vaniglia del Madagascar employs amber (which I honestly couldn’t detect) while Vanitas utilises myrrh and sandalwood (noticeable but very subtle). The drydown of Vanitas also possesses a slightly dark and brooding undertone (possibly due to the myrrh) but, apart from that, they pretty much smell the same.
Overall, I could only detect two main significant differences between them – price and sillage. Vaniglia del Madagascar does possess sufficient (albeit moderate) sillage but, while being a perfume extrait, it’s unable to match the nuclear EDP sillage of Vanitas. As for price, Vaniglia del Madagascar is a lot (and interestingly) cheaper than Vanitas but that’s not to say the quality of the ingredients and blending are inferior – they’re pretty much of a similar high standard.
Personally, I much prefer the intense opulence of Vanitas (it’s definitely the more tenacious of the two). However, if you wish for a softer version of Vanitas or would simply like a cheaper alternative (once you’ve managed to accept the fact that sillage and longevity will be slightly less), Vaniglia del Madagascar would make an excellent choice.
I have to admit that when I first smelt Vaniglia del Madagascar my heart sank – the realisation that I could have acquired something very similar to Vanitas, for much less, was too much to bear thinking about (and £50 is a huge difference). However, after testing them side-by-side, I can confidently state that I’m still very happy with my Profumum Roma purchase.
Therefore, based on my personal tastes, Vaniglia del Madagascar is very good but Vanitas is much better. Still, Vaniglia del Madagascar is highly recommended and can easily be considered as one of the best vanilla scents currently available.