The citruses of the opening are about the only interesting element of the fragrance. The yuzo and bergamot, nicely helped by the star anise are rather dusty (very good description, Darvant) and unclear, thanks to the combination of violet, incense, and patchouli notes already encroaching on and dominating the opening citruses. The accord is noticeably synthetic, particularly suffering from a lack of better quality material. The violet continues on into its middle level, becoming the dominant element in the remainder of the fragrance to my nose. Not at all original and boring … don’t like it at all.
Graphite by Montana and/or Balmain’s Carbone meet Dior Homme and Narciso Rodriguez for Him. The composition is extremely clean and “geometrical” and you can really clearly see these inspirations for me. Pencil-wood shavings, peppery synthetic incense, iris, that same exact feel of “wet concrete” caused by violet leaves as in Narciso, with just the exact hint of citrus freshness not to smell overly oppressive. How come this fragrance is so neglected and underrated? I may be wrong, but I find Man probably the best offering ever by Paul Smith. And one of the nicest mainstreams of the last decade, deserving for me way more praise than it gets. This is a remarkable little gem of satin matte dusty greyness, masterfully blending Lorson’s signature “pencil sharpener” notes with a truly enjoyable iris-violet accord which smells slightly sweet, but massively aloof and decidedly androgynous, completely emptied of any “powdery” weight. I mean: it is powdery, just in a really transparent, light way (so, yes, totally “masculine” if that’s your concern). The same for woods – more “industrial wood shavings” than actual raw woods. The entire fragrance smells actually totally weightless, resulting in an extremely sophisticated feel of “empty” dustiness. Feels more like the balmy smell of air where these materials have been processed, rather than the actual result of the processing. Instant love for me, the quality of materials isn’t probably stunning, but this doesn’t smell cheap for me. Or better say: it makes a really good use of synthetics, so cheapness isn’t an issue in the first place. A peculiar yet versatile and refined fragrance with a remarkable contemporary feel, extremely linear but it works. Also quite niche-smelling for me – could have been easily something made by Andrea Maack or nu_be. Totally nice bottle too. Sadly discontinued.
A strange sort of smell, Paul Smith Man reminds me of what you'd get if you tried to create an artistic expression of wood by mixing grape drink, nutmeg, sage leaves, patchouli, chemically treated fiberboard, and a touch of bleach. It's really odd, but it doesn't smell bad.
Mixes of similar notes are extremely common and often fail because they play up the bleachy smell, trying to be "aquatic", but Paul Smith man leaves the bleach in the background enough that it lends a sense of artificiality in an artistic way, as opposed to just smelling common.
This sort of reminds me of the nuttiness of Kenneth Cole Black, but Man is more woody and way less bleachy. It definitely does smell like a mall scent, just one that uses the usual elements with more skill than its brethren.
Modern and glamour in a dusty, sweet, leathery-floral and synthetic-waxy way. With Paul Smith Man I'm soon invested by a wet spicy/aromatic explosion (vaguely a la Basala first stage) composed by hesperidic patchouli, yuzu, pepper (peppery incense) and may be cinnamon. There is early a sort of lymphatic sweet (spicy/fruity/floral) freshness in the air emerging from the incensey floral heart and well connected with the initial wet/spicy blast. The incense is synthetic but well modulated and it does not overwhelm the diffused fruity/floral typical humidity. There is a central stage dominated by the note of iris (more than vaguely Dior Homme conjuring) with its known (and bit too much plastic in this case) powdery approach. The spicy/incensey floral connection from iris and violets determines significantly the distinctive aroma of the juice. I detect also a sort of lingering sticky woodiness around which is masculine and well joined with the patchouli and the final honeyed (tobacco aromatized) tonka. May be this "smokey woodiness" comes out straight from the note of tonka (a touch of ambergris yet?). Far more similar to Fahrenheit 32 (citrus, iris, violet, aromatic and spicy notes, a touch of incense etc etc) than to Dior Homme (as for many) in my humble opinion. I smell just vaguely the Dior Homme's vibe (which is less spicy, wet, sticky and sweet to me). Sultry and carnal for the lovers (not me) of the sweet and brash synthetic experiments. Nice bottle.
Pros: Enveloping, dusty and humid.
Cons: Synthetic and sweet."</p>
27th August, 2013 (last edited: 15th January, 2016)
Iris and violets
Reminds me of Dior Homme without the warmth...
I had Dior homme back in the days and it totally resembles it.
There where DH projects massively in the first hour and get skinwise next hours this scent gets more time projecting overal, the mid section and drydown is iris just as DH, i must say Paul Smith was second with this lipstick / classy iris scent so credits to the noses who created DH and DHI
Overal a very well constructed scent for warm floral powdery scent lovers!
Pros: Dior Homme lovers can have a backup bottle