Perfume Directory

Fourreau Noir (2009)
by Serge Lutens


Fourreau Noir information

Year of Launch2009
GenderShared / Unisex
AvailabilityIn Production
Average Rating
(based on 79 votes)

People and companies

HouseSerge Lutens
Parent CompanyShiseido

About Fourreau Noir

Fourreau Noir is a shared / unisex perfume by Serge Lutens. The scent was launched in 2009

Fourreau Noir fragrance notes

Reviews of Fourreau Noir

Eau de Moth Ball? Sorry, but that is what it smells like
to my nose. I am not getting any of the notes others
mention in these reviews, no lavender, no tonka,
no musk, just the pungent scent of moth balls.

Mind you, these are old moth balls, not tear producing
fresh, but the scent one got decades ago, when we used
to take our winter clothes out of storage.

Mine is a freshly decanted sample from a prestigious
sample house, so I doubt I am smelling something
that has "gone off."

This is a scent one used to put up with until it wore
off, not one that is deliberately worn.
25th May, 2016
It’s no coincidence that Serge Lutens Fourreau Noir and Dior Privee Eau Noire are the only two lavender-forward fragrances I can stomach – they are both gourmand takes on the theme.

Eau Noire features a dark roasted coffee/licorice note set against a sun-roasted lavender, and plays off of the aromatic qualities of both. Fourreau Noir goes for contrast: the sharp smoke of the lavender rounded out and softened by a bready, almond-like tonka bean.

The overall effect, for me, is of a lavender-studded cake dripping with a lurid purple sugar glaze, left to smolder a touch too long in the oven and tasting like smoke from the grill. The deep, almost honeyed tobacco in the dry-down has an intimate, musky skin-like effect that is quite sensual (although not sexy).

As others have stated – this is not a wholly original scent. It mixes known elements from the Serge Lutens line up, most notably the electric-fire-smoked lavender from Gris Clair, the cozy hay/tobacco from the tonka-heavy Chergui, and (to me at least) the slightly urinous combination of tobacco and honey of Fumerie Turque.

But I don’t care – original or not, this is a thick, satisfying fragrance that swings between fougere and gourmand, male and female, and smoke and cream. I don’t mind scents that are extrapolations of others as long as the end result is good. And Fourreau Noir is more than good - it’s great.
18th September, 2015
Does anyone catch the similarities with Chanel's Jersey? FN is infinitely darker, and ultimately more interesting, but the lavender-vanillac-musk combo, and created by the same perfumer, recalls the Borneo-Coromandel similarities with the same circumstances.
26th December, 2014 (last edited: 07th July, 2016)
Cannes Show all reviews
United States
Paris in the winter

Oh, Fourreau Noir... how I adore you. I first smelled you in the Palais Royal on a February day along with many others. It wasn't until later that night, laying in bed, staring out my window onto a Paris street that you stole my heart. I couldn't get back to the Palais Royal fast enough. And, alas, you were mine! I wear you in the winter and in the summer. I absolutely love your smokey lavender mixed with sweet vanilla amber. You stay with me all day. Reminding why I fell in love with you that winter day in Paris.

23rd September, 2013

Fourreau Noir makes me consider the possibilities of copying and repetition.  Part of a series, variation on a theme? Uninventive, deliberate, derivative?  Sequel, flanker, gender counterpart, homage?  


However it’s come about, Fourreau Noir smells remarkably similar to Chergui.  A little less raspy and a bit cooler and herbal from the lavender.  It’s syrupy, sweet and woody.  It’s a spin on the coumarin accord of Chergui,  a range that Sheldrake and Lutens do very well.   Sadly, it holds no surprise here, but then again, I’m not a great fan of Chergui. 

Worse luck, Fourreau Noir has a large helping of the same masculine contemporary notes linking ‘freshness’ (I can’t quite use that word without qualifier) and wood that Chergui has.  This capitulation is what turned Chergui for me, and it does the same to Fourreau Noir.  It fact, this is where the similarity of the two is to be found.  Sheldrake and Lutens manage to make many distinctive perfumes in what might seem a small range of spicy syrup (see Arabie, Cedre, Cuir Mauresque).  But in both Chergui and here in Fourreau Noir, the perfume makers cede the middle ground to convention and, despite Fourreau Noir’s lavender, which could be a logical entree to the world of the contempo-homo (my stage name for the state of current perfumery for men), Fourreau Noir winds up fairly faceless and undistinguished like Chergui.


Clearly, I’m not hiding my preferences, but to take a step back, how are we to view Fourreau Noir?  Lutens don’t group it with Chergui in their “Sudden Sweetness” series where Chergui is found, but the composition is similar.  The generous thing to do would be to paint the two as a Bernard Chant/Estee Lauder gender pairing such as Azuree/Aramis or Aromatics Elixir /Aramis 900.  Less generous would be to call Fourreau Noir a retread.  

19th May, 2013
Surely one of the most interesting releases among the "latest" Lutens. A dark gourmand that, while still maintaining a quite dense structure and presence, it never gets too sweet or heavy. Lavender on top joined by a bold tonka/musk base that's powdery and slightly smoky at the same time. Not as groundbreaking as I espected but a completely enjoyable ride throughout...Very nice.

Good projection, satisfying lastin power.

One of the best names for a fragrance in year.

Downside: A little disappointment, if I can call it so, comes during the drydown where, most of the latest Lutens, verge towards crudeness.

14th June, 2012

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Other perfumes by Serge Lutens

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Perfumes launched in the same year as Fourreau Noir (2009)

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