Louban (2009)
by Montale

Long ago I got a tad bored with the myriad Montale oud/rose scents, of which Damascus is my favorite. All are very competent but redundant, with slight variations vis a vis the balance between oud and the other notes and perhaps where in the fragrance's progression the oud dominates. Ever since getting a decant of Louban I've been coming back to it over and over. The balance is much different from that of other Montale oud/roses. The addition of incense is a welcome component and the oud itself isn't nearly as dominant. The rose isn't as sweet or thick. Therefore while this is yet another oud/rose it really does stand apart as unique from the others. Overall Louban is more complex, with a lot more going on, than it's brothers and sisters in the line.

On the downside, what I really like about Aoud Damascus (and even more in Micallef's Aoud Rose) is the convergence between oud and rose such that it presents itself almost as a unified note, and this is not accomplished in Louban.

Ignoring the repetition in the line Louban is a fine fragrance, particularly for those who don't want an oud-dominant composition.

MONTALE - LOUBAN
My very first review - and in English! - so, bear with me :-)
I received a sample from Luckyscent in June, and have tried this one for the first time today.
Notes:
Violet leaves, Turkish rose, olibanum (frankinsence), oud, musk, sandalwood, patchouli.
Prior to this, I have tried 'Pure gold', 'Aoud leather', 'Amber & Spices' and 'Sandal sliver', of which I find the latter wearable. The others seem to be very sharp and to a certain extent unpleasant on my skin.
For me, Louban starts out strong, metallic rose. Almost unpleasant, but just almost. Ten minutes later: soft, beautiful rose with a sting. I can recognize the oud from the other Montales, patchouli too (often becomes sharp on me), but they seem lighter and easier to be around in Louban than in the others.
The musk and sandalwood softens the intense metallic rose and the harsh oud. The violet leaves bring in the green, dry, iris-like note that almost stings like iris "always" does on me (there is never a "always" with perfume, is there?).
After half an hour the rose, musk, olibanum and sandalwood seme to "win", while violet, oud and patchouli lie underneath, creating depth and at bit oomph, without breaking totally through.
Next phase: rose and smoke. Allmost bonfire-smoke. Insence. Fades, but comes back whith renewed strength.
I love it! Sensual, deap, mystical, dry, soft, clean, dark, sexy, mmmmmmm!

Louban opens on a very rich accord of oudh and bittersweet spices, with especial emphasis upon the cutting, saffron-like aspect of the oudh. It’s an arresting and effective opening, and it at first distinguishes Louban nicely from the run of Montale rose-and-oudh compositions. The rose does eventually emerge as the oudh settles, along with a brisk green note (violet leaf?) and an unusually clean, dry patchouli. The spices simultaneously darken and take on a burning quality that overrides any excessive sweetness that the rose might impart. What I miss entirely is the olibanum (frankincense) from which Louban takes its name.

Once the oudh has receded, Louban lightens up considerably, and while I’d hardly call it a bright or light fragrance, it is less dense and weighty than many of the other Montale oudhs. Like any scent based on a rose and oudh accord though, Louban is potent, with plenty of sillage and ample projection. On the other hand, if you find say, Black Aoud too bold and aggressive, you may enjoy this new scent much more.

As a gender-neutral woody rose and spice composition Louban competes with scents like Cabaret, Paestum Rose, and Czech & Speake’s Dark Rose. It is bolder and spicier than Cabaret, more generous in its oudh note than Dark Rose, but to my nose devoid, despite its name, of Paestum Rose’s prominent incense accord. In all fairness must also point out that there are several other Montale oudh scents that get the same job done, most conspicuously Royal Aoud, Aoud Damascus, and Attar.

If intended as an incence fragrance I consider Louban an utter failure. As yet another oudh and rose scent Louban does not add much to the Montale range, but I suppose it does fit Montale’s apparent strategy of multiple near(?) redundant releases. If its siblings didn’t already exist, or if Louban's composition better expressed the ingredient for which it's named, I would rate it higher, but as it is my enthusiasm is bridled.

First of all, let’s get the fact that Louban isn’t big, bold, or dark out of the way. If you want big, bold, or dark buy Black Aoud—which I love to wear. Black Aoud is for those individuals who enjoy wearing a fragrance that screams overt sensuality and sexuality. Louban, on the other hand, is for those individuals who prefer a more restrained sensory experience. Louban, to my nose, is no less a fragrance to Montale’s earlier creations: it has just been created for a different and/or growing clientele.

The rose in Louban is not Montale’s typical vivid red rose that still stands out in the half light of sunset. Instead, Louban possesses soft pink and yellow roses that have been nurtured by the sun and retain a warm disposition. In conjunction with the violet leaves these roses are warm, soft, and substantial, and not at all dark.

The medicinal kick from the aoud is more annoying in Louban than in many other Montales, because it takes the focus away from the roses and violet leaves for about twenty minutes. Try not to get too frustrated during this period of time, because the roses and violet leaves make a fantastic comeback on top of the olibanum and aoud.

The olibanum plays an unusual role in Louban. It is an unlit stick of incense: sweet, smooth, slightly resinous, and slightly woody. It draws the aoud and sandalwood up toward the sun kissed roses, resulting in a soft and warm base.

As the dry down continues the musk emerges in perfect harmony with the wood and aoud, and it stops the remains of the roses and violet leaves from becoming too sweet or linear.

Louban stays close to the skin, and longevity is around eight hours on me.

I hope Louban influences a large number of new people to try Montale’s fragrances.

Louban is definitely a case of Montale going through the motions. It’s sorely a case of been there, done that (even if some incense has been thrown into the, now tired, rose and oud combo).

It’s not as tenacious or potent as Montale’s earlier oud efforts but some may prefer it this way. As for me, I much prefer their classic releases such as Black Aoud and Aoud Lime. This may well be a case of Montale attempting to attract more sales but, based on their unique positioning within the Western fragrance market, it’s very disappointing to see them compromise their integrity for the sake of an increase in turnover (and it’s not as if they desperately need to achieve this).

One also has to remember that, due to their potency, their older releases are not perfumes most of us will finish as quickly as those from other. So, where does it leave the veteran / die-hard fans of this house, who already own multiple Montales and are still eagerly awaiting another amazing release (like myself)? Probably out in the cold, it seems…

Please make a swift comeback, the Montale of old.

******

If you’re interested in purchasing any Montale fragrances, please consider our highly-respected Basenotes member, maisonstinky, as your first point of contact. He offers an exceptional service, competitive prices and special offers to fellow Basenoters. For further details, please cut and paste the link below:

http://www.basenotes.net/specials/montale.html