Hot Leather (2009)
by Mark Buxton

I'm still convinced that Mark Buxton delivers much better fragrances when he is committed by other brands than when he creates them for his own, and in this context "Hot Leather" makes no exception.

A floral leather (?) composition that instead of recallilng luxury shows an overall decadence that's quite far from being compelling. Mr. Buxton describe his composition as "an evening at the Moulin Rouge!", and that's perfect if you're obsessed with hookers dancing the can-can.

14th June, 2011.

I think I got fooled with this or should I say I fooled myself...
I don't think this is high quality nor do I think it has high quality natural ingredients. Ergo it may not be worth the price tag!
BUT I can see why I instantly fell in love with this and went home with a bottle. I still love it. I like the smokiness and slight roughness in the beginning, while it slowly turns softer and gentler. It may not be a "true leather" coming up, but then, to my nose there are very few out there or maybe only really the one: Chanel's Cuir de Russie (parfum extrait)? So, I'm fine with that. I do get the picture with this fragrance. A night at the Moulin Rouge - it has a "vulgar" touch to my nose and liking, which I mean all positive here. Longevity is moderate to average and sillage is just fine.
So, get it if you like it / if you think it takes you right there where it says, but not for quality or sophistication, I think. I know it sells well here locally, but does it add to the fragrance?

22nd June, 2010.

It's cool, but I had to quickly dismiss this, as it doesn't compare to my favorite citruses, Green Irish Tweed, Reaction, and Bergamote 22. I know it's different, but if we're getting creative, I'll mix one of the other citruses with something darker and even straight up leather. Now that would be hot.

If you don't have a ton of citrus scents, you may be won over. I wasn't.

6th March, 2010.

Notes: citrus, bergamot, coriander, mandarin, orris, jasmine, patchouli, cedarwood and vanilla (from luckyscent.com)

When I smelled this on paper last week, it seemed that Hot Leather was mostly about "leather" and not very much about "hot". The leather notes seemed artificial, like tanning compounds rather than the rich, smoky effect that birch tar lends or the animalic edge that castorium can give. As such, Hot Leather seems much more clean than classic leather compositions such as Chanel Cuir de Russie. Fast forward to today--I am trying Hot Leather on skin, and it is quite different when it melds with my chemistry. HL still has the clean and chemical leather note I smelled before. However, in wearing it, HL seems much more complex, with soft mixed florals, vanilla powder and a rooty iris. In fact, Hot Leather STILL is not "hot", is really not all that "leathery", but it definitely is pretty. The combination of iris and leather is tried and true, and the proportions in HL are quite nice. Now the reality...Hot Leather is sort of like a more feminine Dior Homme and is without the "lipstick" note. Or, if you prefer, it is a bit like a blend between Dior Homme and Prada Infusion d'Iris, replete with an artificial woody base (probably Iso E Super). Hot Leather is more powdery than Dior Homme and less soapy than Infusion d'Iris. I suppose for any who thought Dior Homme or Infusion d'Iris didn't quite satisfy, Buxton's Hot Leather may be the one that hits the sweet spot. For me, it makes me appreciate Dior Homme even more than I did before.

20th November, 2009.

John Varvatos minus actual leather plus some florals. I'd say this is a floriental and much like Buxton's other creation for Karl Lagerfeld, Kapsule Light. Very creamy and I was apprehensive trying this because me and leather don't get along. I love the cedarwood drydown with a touch or orris. Good stuff!

30th October, 2009.

Hot Leather is a perfectly good fragrance that is misnamed, and unfortunately those seeking a strong leather fragrance may be disappointed. I'd suggest pretending the name is something else and expect a spicy citrus/floral, especially for the first hour after application. The fragrance starts with a lightly spicy citrus/floral accord that approximates a leather note similar to the leather note in Armani's Cuir Amethyste. The leather accord deepens a little as it moves to a woody/floral heart, becoming smoother then Armani and getting closer to Creed's REL (but not nearly as smooth or rich). The scent fizzles out by the time it reaches the base, with a light, woody leather all that remains.

Overall this is pretty tame fragrance with only a hint of development. As a leather fragrance it's too mild and a floral it's too muted. Sillage is fairly discrete and longevity average. If you're looking for a true floral 'hot leather' I'd suggest the timeless Knize Ten or Etat Libre's Tom of Finland.

27th August, 2009.